Scrollsawing ornament — stock selection
I think I want to make some ornaments for Christmas this year. Picked up a magazine with full-sized patterns to check out. I see that I can buy scrollsaw blanks in aspen, poplar, ash, basswood, birch, oak, butternut, maple, walnut, purpleheart, cherry, satinwood and mahogany (whew!). Oh, and even hackberry. Having no scraps other than alder and oak, these options are intriguing.
Anyway, this would be my first-ever scrollsaw work. What woods would you recommend for giving pretty results, but not being too difficult to work? How much does the grain direction and type affect the ease of scrollsawing? Any of these woods I should stay away from?
For future Christmases. would holly be a good wood to work with, or is it more for tiny accents and such? (I can harvest holly here at home)
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
JAMIE: Alright now your talking Kiddo Scrollsawin something that i really know about..LOL..What magazine you buy for the patterns?? was it Creative WoodWorks& Crafts by chance??they have some niffty xmas decorations in there issue as a matter of fact IM using there patterns for my lay outs..Wood it really doesn't matter what wood you pick if you have good blades your saw is going to cut it use either OLSON or Flying DutchMan blades heres a linky for FDBs by the way contact Mike he will send you free sample blades..
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/
with wood the softer it is the easier it is to cut just like using your other power saws.. Im using copper sheets to make xmas orniments aso,,colored plastics make nice ones too. I heard the other day on a scrollsaw forum some people have used CDs there neat cause you get a mirror look.. boy IM glad to hear your going to fire up the scrollsaw..
ToolDoc
Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Yes, TD, it is the CWWC magazine. Thanks for the tips about other materials! I browsed through the mag tonight while watching the ballgame(s) and picked out specific ones for different folks on my list. Also noted the ones that have pictures inside (page 16, #'s 58- 59 & 60). Was thinking I might be able to make a bunch of those to sell through the pet store next door to my biz. I guess I need to email the guy who provided the patterns and find out where he gets those picture holders and how he attaches them. Can't tell by looking at them.
A few more questions:
What thickness of stock would you recommend, and how many can I gang-cut? I wouldn't be making any of the complicated ones with lots and lots of holes and curlicues in them. 1/4" seems like it might be too thick? Looking at the ad on page 11 (Heritage), they have 1/8" stock in "Spec-Wood."
Have you every used the thin birch plywood ("Scroll-Ply"). What types of projects does it lend itself to?
Don't get too excited about this madness I'm experiencing -- I suspect scrollsawing is going to be a little too fine-motor oriented than I can stick with for any long period of time! But reallllly want to do WWing projects this year. Nick's off on his first hunting trip of the season this weekend, so I'm lookin' for trouble to get into!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi FG,
I have been doing a lot of Gary Browning style scolling lately. I have found it easiest to use 5/32 Finnish Birch ply. It is strong enough to hold fine cuts yet thin enough not to look too heavy. I have done some in white oak and other hardwoods which aren't bad but they're more fragile and some other lower number plys but keep coming back to the 5 ply 5/32 birch. If you want better grain, how about putting a veneer on it and then cutting it? I don't see any problem with cutting 3 at a time and possibly 4 if they aren't too intricate.
Incidentally, I agree with TD about the Flying Dutchman blades. I only use #3 spiral ones now because of the ease in changing direction without having to turn the piece. They are a bit messy on the underside of the cut but easily cleaned up with a ROS or a sharp carving knife.
Be safe,Ken
Hi Ken, thanks for the tips. I'll order a couple of those #3 spirals along with whatever else I order, and some of the 5/32" ply. Is there any difference between the Finnish and the Baltic plys? Look like the same construction.... I'm running kinda short on time, so although I'll order some ply, I'll probably make these ornaments from solid stock and play around with the ply.
Anyone ever used a fine fingernail file to clean up those rough edges?? forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Dear ScrollSaw Lady of the Forest: 1/8" birch or for that matter any other woods in that thickness is ideal for your xmas orinaments.. your right 1/4" seems a tad to bulky.. yes you can stack several pcs together for multiple pcs..I usualy cut bout 6 or 8 at a time.. I like using the Birch easy to work with..
another good scrollin magazine you should keep your eye out for is ScrollSaw Work Shop, they always have good pattern ideas..
check out this web site also neat free patterns & plenty of good tips here..
http://groups.msn.com/scrollsawportraits/home.htm
also check out Ricks ScrollSaw site... lots of good reading there..
http://www.scrollsaws.com
if you check out these sites & check the scrollin magazines you will find plenty of interesting projects to keep your nimble fingers busy for years to come...
OH by the way be verry carefull cause this Scrollin is very adictive.LOL
Just look at me bought 4 diffrent scroll saws over the years..<G>
Happy scrollin.. ToolDoc
PS==> if ya have any more Questons feel free to ask..
EDIT>> A after thought here on my part.. You have a planner & Bandsaw soo you could Resaw wood or plane thicker stuff down to size & use solid wood for your xmas decorations also.. this way your scraps would be used up..
Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club.
Edited 10/16/2003 11:09:19 AM ET by TOOLDOC
Thanks again for all the info, TD. What blade do you use for the 1/8" birch? If you were working in walnut, what blade would you use? I'm thinking that for natural finishes I would use birch, maple or walnut and if I wanted to try the dye, either birch or some of my alder scraps.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: I pretty much use Olson 8 -10 TPi blades for plywood & solid stock I get a nice cut with em.. use same TPI in the Flying DutchMan blades also..Check out this site theres a blade selection chart there.. http://www.olsonsaw.com
Just remember the more TPI the smoother the finsh,but you must then lower the feed rate soo you don't burn your stock,is your saw a single or VS model?? Best to check the Olson & Mikes workshop stes for Blade/material being cut charts then you will have a idea what blades you need..
ToolDoc
Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Edited 10/16/2003 1:27:20 PM ET by TOOLDOC
Hi TD, somehow I missed your TPI post yesterday -- caught up in "clamp frenzy" I guess. Just curious, do you ever use the reversed tooth blades (the ones where the teeth go in both directions)? If so, what types of projects?
It's been downright balmy here in the Puget Sound -- in the mid-60's (but raining) at night, no rain today, still warm. Tomorrow should be a great day to get back into the shop, clean things up and figure out where to put the scroll saw (it's currently in the utility room sitting on top of the non-working washing machine! Haven't used it in 3 years, but I guess it'll still fire up, LOL!)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: NO I don't use the reverse tooth blades,just use regular blades,to be truthfull IM not really sure of the purpose of those?? Keep us posted on progress with your scroll saw project..
Have a Nice weekend... ToolDocProud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
TD, what's the deal with the drill-bit sizes listed in Mike's blade charts? 71? 68? Obviously, they're not in my B&D set out in the shop, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
jAMIE: There number drill sizes he listed the correct # drill for his blade sizes
you can just use a bit that you already have to make a correct pilot hole most shops don't have or use those size drill bits
ToolDocProud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Jamie: I came across some info that IM going to try out myself.. using Rit Dye to color the wood or stain it..seems like a great idea for xmas oriments,you can stain em diffrent colors should be neat huh.. you can request info on the process from the mfg.. http://www.ritdye.com now I haven't tried this yet but looks ok..will let you know how it turns out..
ToolDocProud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Try this site..http://www.scrollsaw.com/patterns.htm this might help you,,
I use anything under 1/4 inch thick...walnut, cedar,But bass wood is the best
to work with...
? for you, How do i get new messages displayed here... Is there a trick I need to know...Like new Messages...
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