I recenlty got a new a DeWalt 20″ scrollsaw and bought a couple of books that take you through a series of skill-building projects, and it’s been quite fun.
I’ve reached a point now that’s not covered in any of the books I have. I’ve used the bevel cutting technique for inlaying a single piece into another. What changes do you have to make in this technique if you’re going to be inlaying 2 (or more) different woods into a base? I’ve experimented with taping three layers together, for example, then cutting my pattern out with a 2-degree bevel. If you call the layers T(op), M(iddle), and B(ottom), then when I’m done with the cut, M inlays nicely into T, and B inlays into M, but B is too loose for T.
I’ve seen inlay projects with *many* different woods, so obviously there’s a technique that works. Do I simply increase the bevel angle? –or is there a completely different technique? Can anybody point me in the right direction?
-M.
Replies
Professional veneering experts at Flamingo Inlays use an angle of 7 to 10 degrees. If your inlays are thicker than veneers, your three high stack is sure to cause size problems. Make various two stack sandwiches, using differenr top woods for each. They will all fit beautifully. Your jigsaw probably tilts only one way, but I'm sure it has a scale that will show 10 degrees. Make sure your saw slant is 'with the cone'. Imagining a cone with the point down through your insert is a good way to keep proper orientation in mind. Also, you don't say how fine a blade you're using. I believe Lee Neilson (sp?) sells very fine veneering blades. And, after all, it's the thickness of the saw kerf that determines how much wood is taken, and is the reason fo the taper (or Cone) in the first place.
Work with only two layers at a time. Call one the background, and the other the insert. Cut the hole in the background layer and the matching piece from the insert layer. Remove the waste, and drop that piece into the background layer with glue on the edge to hold it in. For the next cuts, your background layer has multiple kinds of wood in it.
Thanks to both of you for the suggestions. I'm practicing with 1/4" thick materials, so yes -- it's much thicker than veneers. I've tried #0, #2, and #4 blades.
As my wife and I were driving to go out to dinner tonight, I finally had a mental insight into the geometry and realized, as both of you pointed out, that a stack isn't going to work no matter what the bevel angle if the materials aren't extremely thin.
I'm going to combine both of your suggestions -- moving my bevel angle closer to 10 deg and just doing two layers, gluing pieces into the background after each cut. I can see that this technique will take a little pre-planning of the cut schedule.
A related question: what's the best way to hide the kerfs that result from slight misfits? I've tried mixing sawdust with white glue, but I can't get a good color match -- it always darkens when I apply any kind of finish and highlights the misfit -- not what I had in mind :-)
Thanks!
-M.
i use the double bevel method too -- but the ratio that seems to work is veneers cut to 5/64", use a #00 blade, cutting at a 7 degree angle (for me sloping downward left to right)- background wood on top, inset piece below. must admit that i have not tried that with a machine - i use a jewelers hand saw.
as to filling in kerf areas and pin holes -- try using 2/part, 5 minute epoxy and painter's powder tints. i squeeze out a glob of part a -- add tinting powders to get the right color (a skill i'm not so good at) - add the catalyst - then fill. after it dries i use a scraper to remove the xcess.
hope that helps.
jerry
I'll give the epoxy thing a try. Dumb question: where do you get "painters tints"? At a paint store? An art supply store?
-M.
hi mark - would try art supply stores - but sometimes they're tough to find
here's a url
http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/59/products.asp?ig_id=4661
jerry
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