Replies

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Jun 11, 2007 04:12pm | #1

   Having scraped my fair share of paint, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but the question is for how long? Paint is some really abrasive stuff, I think what you are going to find is the burr on the card scaper is not going to last very long. Hence why you see Sanvik carbide tipped paint scrapers available at the borgs or paint stores, but I will put the disclaimer on never trying the carbide tipped scrapers on interior trim.

   Best of luck

1. 
   fausonj | Jun 11, 2007 04:48pm | #4

   Bobabeui,

   Thanks for the tip.  Yes, I realize that the card scrapers may not last very long on this.  But I wanted to give them a try as I hadn't done so before.

   Do you have a particular tried and true approach to scraping paint and restoring woodwork?  If so, I would be interested in hearing about it.

   For this project, I've been putting Peel Away 6 on the top layer of paint (a very disgusting glossy-white coat of paint that was clearly just slapped on).  The Peel Away 6 seems to take approximately a layer off at a time.  Once I get all of the Peel Away 6 off, then I fire up my radiant heat gun (known as the silent paint remover - http://www.silentpaintremover.com), which seems to work better than most other heat guns I have tried.  Sometimes I can get down to the bare layer of wood after these two steps.  Other times, a coat of varnish or a hard, almost plaster like substance seems to remain on the woodwork.  It is this last bit which I am having problems with.

   I've also tried to use shavehooks to scrape paint - but I cannot find a very good way to get them super sharp.  I think the scrapers - particularly the gooseneck scrapers appealed to me precisely because for convex/concave surfaces, I haven't found a very good instrument yet to scrape with.  Perhaps it is all a matter of figuring out how to get a good sharp edge on the shavehook.

   Thanks for your initial thoughts and tips.

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Jun 11, 2007 05:35pm | #9

   FausonJ,

   Poster SawDustSteve brings up a really good point, that you really need to be cautious of the lead paint exposure, especially in your case since you are removing paint in the interior of the home and would be creating lead paint dust via scraping, which will also need to be remediated. Most of the chemical removal methods tend to be 'safer' since the lead is still in a gloppy encapsulated mess.

   Might want to try using a paint scraper (carefully) to assist with the removal of the chemical stripper, might get more layers off in one application, than without.

   Really don't have any silver bullets here, back in the day we removed much interior trim to have dipped at a chemical stripping company (don't even know if they exist anymore), really was the easiest and looking back at it safest method to remove lead based paint inside the home), all of the trim we had stripped was repainted.

   Might want to post over at Breaktime and see if anyone has some tips for you.

    

    

1. 
   fausonj | Jun 12, 2007 06:05am | #10

   B,

   I posted at Breaktime, so we'll see what I hear over there.

   The chemical stripping companies still do exist.  One is within a couple miles of me.  Unfortunately, the entryway to my house isn't something that can be removed.  But I have had interior doors stripped there at $100/door and they do really strip right down to the bare wood.    It is pretty amazing and the month turn around time seems to be worth it if one isn't interested in spending their free time stripping paint.

   I think a silver bullet is something that I'm looking for and unfortunately, I don't think one exists for any paint stripping job.

   Thanks for your input. 

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 11, 2007 04:40pm | #2

   The ONLY problem is that most of the paint you will be removing is LEAD bases paint. If you go the scraper route, PLEASE use a very good dust mask and appropriate safety and clean-up proceedures. I'd continue with your 'favorite' liquid or paste based remover to minimize lead dust exposure.
   SawdustSteve

1. 
   fausonj | Jun 11, 2007 04:57pm | #6

   SawdustSteve,

   Understood re: the lead and thanks for the words of caution.  I've been minimizing exposure through the peel away 6 and the heat gun that I have been using is radiant, so puportedly it does not heat the paint to such an extreme that it causes lead dust to get into the air.  Still, I understand that no method is 100% safe.

    

   Thanks again.

3. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jun 11, 2007 04:46pm | #3

   F, save yer fingers and look at the ball joint scraper by LV (05K21.04) with carbide blade. I just took at least 80 years of white paint off an old timey wood screen door that I am refitting for my front porch. It's a long screen panel on top and four 9x13" screen panels on the lower third with wide stiles and a vertical rail - a substantial door, unlike the finger jointed junk in the box stores. (cost $20)

   The older and crispy the paint the easier it pops off. Good luck, Paddy

1. 
   fausonj | Jun 11, 2007 04:54pm | #5

   Paddy,

   Do you have a link you can send me to that particular scraper?

   Thanks.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jun 11, 2007 05:17pm | #7

   f, it's the Lee Valley site http://www.leevalley.com and just hit woodworking then put in the item # in their search box or cruise the index of tools. The carbide edge stays sharp, the angle of the head is adjustable (read the instructions) and it took my door down to the wood past the paint and varnish. It was $45.50 with the carbide blade and $5.95 for an extra carbide blade + s&h. Paddy

1. 
   fausonj | Jun 11, 2007 05:22pm | #8

   Thanks, I'll check it out!

   I'll also need to get better at the acronyms!  I should have known LV was Lee Valley.