Replies

1. 
   rococokid | Jul 24, 2003 09:52am | #1

   Hey Fred,

   There is an article that describes the process very well in a past FWW. (sorry don't know which one) It is by Steve Proctor. He shows the use of a stick type burnisher not one of the "training wheel" gadgets. Also proper sharpening of scraper prior to burnishing.

   Steve taught me and remember a simple approach is best every time you sharpen, dont over work the things.

   RK

1. 
   macalex | Jul 24, 2003 10:36am | #2

   Think also about a scraper plane. Lie-Nielson make a couple to kill for. There are some jobs where nothing comes close to a scraper - I pick one of mine up every day I'm in the workshop, for one thing or another. Burnishing is easy!

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Jul 24, 2003 06:09pm | #3

   Fred

      Started with Sandvik 30 years ago an still have two left. The Swedish firm is now Bahco which still makes them under that name. Veritas or any others are fine.

      Go to the article mentioned or read Leonard Lee's book on sharpening. It's very simple. The edge's an side are flattened with a 8" or 10" bastard file. I made a jig with a short piece of wood block. Veritas makes a jig, if you want to buy one.

      A couple of passes on the sides of the scraper an edge will flatten it. A couple of passes on a burnisher will turn a hook that you seek. Hard to see that 5 degree hook with the eye, but you will feel it with your finger-tips. The most common mistake people make is to put too much pressure on the burnish pass.

      Keep it light, keep it simple as this is a simple an very effective weapon (tool). Takes about 2 minutes to completely flatten and turn a hook on all sides. When it dulls, just burnish it again quickly. Flatten every so often an re-burnish ever so often, depending on use.

      Note.. You should not produce dust from a scraper pass. It should be a very fine shaving. Dust indicates the hook is not there properly. Also, scrapers don't work as well on soft-woods like pine. Don't be dis-couraged if you don't get perfect results on those soft-woods. The test for proper hook is done on hard-wood..

      Pay attention to the scraper an the results you're getting, it will tell you when to re-sharpen an if you have the proper hook. When that is accomplished, just enjoy the results..

   sarge..jt

3. 
   forestgirl | Jul 24, 2003 06:48pm | #4

   Turns out that there's an article in American Woodworker's current edition (#102) on shaprening a scraper.  I was going to post today and ask if any of the experienced scraper-users had seen it, because it's very well illustrated and seems to present a straightforward, non-mystical demonstration of the sharpening process.  You might want to peek at a copy at the newstand.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   fredb | Jul 24, 2003 09:47pm | #5

   Thanks to all of you for your insight ...

   So far some of the mystery is gone. I'll look into the articles mentioned and look forward to any other posts coming this way!

   Regards - FredKind regards - Fred

1. 
   BG | Jul 24, 2003 10:06pm | #6

   Fred,

   Last fall I was at a woodworking show over near the LN booth. I was waiting my turn to play with the rip saw, scraper and low angle plane.  I did not want to seem to eager so I had one of those terribly knowledgeable expressions on my face...you know, the expression that says 'I wonder how this compares with my collection of Hotley's'...

   Anyhow, when the LN scraper was handed to me it turned out to be rather dull...the sales guy whipped out his Veritas 'training wheels' and swiped the scraper twice...and handed it back to me.  That afternoon I bought one...

4. 
   mike4244 | Jul 25, 2003 05:17am | #7

   I have a dozen or so scrapers, the best scrapers I have are cheap brand X types. I have one Sandvik scraper. The Sandvick is fine , but no better than the ones I got from AMT. AMT is no longer in business , not known for fine tools but the scrapers were about $5.00 for a set of three. I made special shaped scrapers out of an old kickplate from a door, they work better than the store bought ones. Sharpening a scraper is not difficult at all. Most people that have problems with sharpening put to much pressure on the burnisher. I run the scraper over a file, put to pieces of wood over the scraper and clamp them together. This will keep the scraper square to the file.You won,t need to this after awhile, I thought this may help you at first. Usually 4 or 5 pulls will do it, pull or push but not both, files cut one way only. Run scraper over a stone, I use a diamond stone. Keep the scraper suare to the stone. 6 times back and forth should be enough. Lay scraper flat on bench,put one drop of 3in 1 oil on burnisher. Draw burnisher across scraper lightly, about same pressure as buttering COLD butter on a roll. The burnisher is flat across the scraper in this first step. Turn upside down and repeat, then do the other sides same way.Next and last step, lay scraper flat , hold burnisher vertically at slight angle. The handle is below the bench and the steel tilts at 5 degrees or so towards the scraper.Pull and push lightly across about 4 times. Now you have raised a burr on one side. Turn scraper upside down and repeat, now you have a mushroom head. You can't see the mushroom but you can feel the slight burr. Repeat this for the other three sides.

   Try scraping now. You can either push or pull the scraper. If the scraper is thin you can bend the scraper slightly for a more agressive cut. Experiment with the scraper and you will find the best way for you to hold it. If the scaper is honed correctly you will get thin shavings, dust if not correct. Don't be discouraged if you do not get it right the first time, I've used scrapers for more years than I want to tell and I still will screw up the honing once in awhile,just start over.When the scraper gets dull , redo the burnishing, you only have to file and hone when burnishing does't work anymore.

   The filing and honing on a stone square up the scraper edges. Burnishing rolls the edge to a burr.I have a friend that uses the Veritas burnisher, a gadget that is supposed to be foolproof for burnishing. I have never used it myself but seems like it would come in handy for convex and concave shapes.

   Mike

5. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 25, 2003 04:42pm | #8

   I just bought the Veritas cabinet scraper and it's a beauty. I thought a great value at only $35.00 It will cut like a plane or scrape llike a scraper depending on how you set it.

   Sarge, my poor hands can't take those SANDVIC flat blades anymore !!! Besides, I got tired of burning my fingers as it gets a bit hot.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Jul 26, 2003 02:31am | #9

   boat

      Yeah, they can get warm an my hands do cramp after all these years. I built a little wooden block I clamp it in an that avoids the heat. Doesn't have the comfortable handles of a cabinet scraper though.

      Glad you mentioned the Veritas cabinet scraper. I was looking at it an several other brands. It's a few more bucks than the others. Problem is I would have to order sight unseen. I didn't want to do that without getting feed-back from someone. Thanks for mentioning that you were pleased with it's performance. I think I might just go there.

   sarge..jt