Hi,
I was planning on using a boiled linseed oil and wax finish on a cherry desk that I’ve built using the advice given by Charles Shackleton in FW #175.
I am unclear about the sanding procedure (I know nothing about scraping and was not planning on going down that road). I’ve read various articles that indicate that it is best to sand up to 400 grit in order to reduce blotching in cherry. I have been practicing sanding/finishing by starting with 100 grit and working my way to 400 using random orbital and palm sanders, as well as hand sanding.
My question is twofold:
1. is it necessary to use all the grits between 100 and 400? (I have 5 grits that fall in between.)
2. how do you know when you’ve sanded enough with each of the grits?
On the first practice piece the finish came out pretty blotchy, while the next piece looked great, but I don’t recall doing anything differently, so I’m pretty confused. Is this just the nature of working with cherry?
Thanks for you help.
paul
Replies
Hi Paul,
Your question puts me on a soapbox. Forgive me.
In the 1980's, all I used for the most part was cherry. Everyone was still using oak out where I worked and I said, Nope I'll use cherry. And I never felt that the different absorption rates in various parts of the wood detracted from the look of the cherry. It instead added to its character.
Now everybody and their brother is talking about how blotchy cherry is. Well if you don't like cherry don't use it. Why go to all this trouble to make it look like something else? The grain swirls a bit in the wood and this causes parts of it to absorb more finish than others. So what? In other woods this is valued. Why not cherry?
Your conundrum about how to sand cherry is easily fixed. You can sand it to within an inch of its life and it will still blotch if you don't seal the wood off. So don't sand so much. It won't improve the finish or the finishing, but sanding at grits higher than 220 will close off the pores some so they won't admit as much finish.
A better method if you really have to hide cherry's intrinsic beauty is to put down a wash coat of shellac first. Then oil over it. A stain conditioner sold by several manufacturers can also be used first before your oil. But as I say, I just apply my finish without any pre-sealing of cherry.
As for sanding techniques, I always sanded first with 120 then 220 and then applied the finish. The extra sanding grits were just a way to spend more time and money. And you can hear when your sandpaper goes away. You may start at 120 grit but it ends up much smoother. Just make sure that you eliminate one set of scratches before moving on.
To see if you're done with one grit, hold the piece up to the light and check for sanding scratches. A wiped on coat of thinner can also pop them so you can see them better.
Recoating was done with an application of oil, then wet sanding with 400 grit. This leaves a silky smooth surface if a bit coarse by finishing standards. [Think about your car and the kinds of sand paper they use. I'd guess about 6000 grit to polish it out.]
Time to get off my box. Sorry. Have fun with it. Cherry is wonderful stuff to work. Best, Gary
Thanks for the advice and input, Gary. When you said ...if you really have to hide cherry's intrinsic beauty..., I know I had the same thought -- why am I trying to change the nature of this wood, and why am I reading so much about ways to eliminate and reduce the blotchyness? I think I'm inclined to learn to love cherry for what it is -- a wood with a unique appearance. It reminds me of suede and how it looks different depending on the light and the angle that you are looking at it.I have to tell you that I was thrilled to see that you were the expert assigned to answer my question because you have been such a big part of this project. I've been an amateur wood worker for many years, but this is my first "serious" project that involved buying wood that wasn't already S4S, and making my first mortise and tenon joints. It was your articles that provided the guidance to help me build this small table/desk for my daughter. Using your FW articles I learned to flatten a piece of twisted cherry using a jointer, planer and table saw, and how to make the mortises using a U-shaped jig with my router. And now you have advised me on how to finish this project.I've learned a lot from you -- thanks!paul
Edited 7/7/2008 2:31 pm ET by paul49
Edited 7/7/2008 2:32 pm ET by paul49
Hey Paul,
Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad I could help. I was actually thinking last night of writing you again to say that there are other options for cherry as well. Check this out. I just finished a breakfast table, Shaker style, for one of our upcoming summer classes. I mostly hand planed the surface, a little bit of 220 grit sanding and then I put on one coat of oil. I let that dry for a week and then applied garnet shellac. About 6 thin coats. It's glorious. And the thing that is most glorious is that the finish helps to pop that "blotch". It looks great. So, enjoy your cherry and your projects to come. Best, Gary
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