Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Mar 10, 2008 05:40am | #1

   No, 220 isn't too fine. I use 320 myself. You'll get better results if you use a stearated sandpaper; the stearate acts as a lubricant and reduces the problem. I use 3M Fre-Cut paper myself; Norton 3X papers are also stearated.

   By the way, shellac doesn't really care, but some finishes don't get along well with stearates, so it's can't hurt to wipe down the sanded surface with mineral spirits afterwards.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   fishnskiguy | Mar 10, 2008 05:54am | #2

   Actually, there is no need to sand between coats of shellac. Unlike varnish, where you want to scuff the undercoat to give the next coat something to "grip' to, each new coat of shellac melts the undercoat just a bit so that all coats are just like one.

   I just recently finished a five inch wide alder picture frame about 20" by 35". Six coats of shellac applied two hours apart, no sanding at all. Let it cure for a week, then rubbed out with 320 grit for a minute to knock down the nubs, then just minute of 400 grit, a minute or two of 600 grit, couple or three  minute of 800 grit, then several minutes of 0000 steel wool for the matt finish I wanted.

   I used wet/dry sandpaper because of the powder you experienced. Just wash the paper frequently and sand wet. Works great. 

   It looks better than a factory sprayed  on finish. Try it, you'll like it.

   Chris

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Mar 10, 2008 06:53am | #3

   You are right, sanding is not needed for adhesion, but I sand between coats so as to level and smooth.Joe