Replies

1. 
   DonStephan | Sep 04, 2009 02:54am | #1

   The sandpaper I use for water based finishes is 3M Gold, but that brand is one recommended for water borne finishes.  If using strictly oil based finishes your options may be greater.  Don't hesitate to get a recommendation from General Finishes.

2. 
   DougGF | Sep 05, 2009 06:12pm | #2

   For pure oil rubbed finishes, you shouldn't need to sand between coats since oil rarely raises the grain.  If the oil contains varnish/poly I usually apply 3 - 4 coats using 000 steel wool as my applicator, applied fairly aggressively and wiping off carefully.  I allow that to dry for about a week, wet-sand very lightly with 320 or 400 grit.  The last 2-3 finish coats I apply using with 0000 steel wool.  I use Liberron steel wool which is expensive but I find it works better than other brands.  I also use 0000 to apply wax.

   The only time you need to really worry about debris left by the applicator is on inadequately prepared surfaces and inside corners.  Corners are always a challenge and special care is required particularly with rubbed oil finishes to avoid a build-up that may never fully dry.

   If I use sandpaper, I find that in the finer grits Norton 3X tends to clog less. 

   Doug

   
   

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   Edited 9/5/2009 11:13 am ET by DougGF

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 05, 2009 08:20pm | #3

   I prefer 320 grit, open coat paper, if I can find it.  No issues with stearated paper (though that's not often really a problem--read the finish manufacturer's technical data sheet), and less clogging than with paper proof paper.  Used wet, the waterproof paper works fine, but on early coats that haven't fully sealed the wood that can be a problem, and it is also harder to tell if you are gettig carried away and sanding too much.  Use a sanding block on modern pieces that need a very flat surface, use it folded for use on hand planed items. 

   Steel wool, the real kind, has the problem of leaving shards that aren't the easiest things to fully remove.  The synthetic steel wood pads don't have those problems, but they still don't do as good a job at nipping off dust nibs as sanding (or really delicate use of a scraper) does. 

   You do need to sand between coats of pure tung oil, though that is close to the finish I would be least likely to recommend anyway. 

    

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 05, 2009 09:42pm | #4

   For waterbased finishes, stay far away from steel wool. I like 3M's foam backed sanding pads, though I believe the finest is only 320x. I think that the foam backing helps me get a flatter surface than steel wool or other un-backed abrasives.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
   and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 06, 2009 03:55pm | #5

   I like using 3M's green and gray pads but I have to admit that I am far from an expert at finishing. I also rarely use sandpaper finer than 120 grit. OK, sometimes I use the 600 grit? automotive wet/dry sometimes when I find a 'fussy' area to clean up.

   I normally use some commercial brand wipe-on oil varnish. I find that any brand seems to work for what I do. I do not like water based unless I am painting some interior wall inside my home. I am NOT saying that water based products are bad! I just like the smell of OIL in the morning.... Old mechanic here....

   On flat surfaces I ALWAYS use a card scraper. As far as I am concerned nothing comes close for a smooth surface. Sandpaper and the 3M Green pad to clean up routed profiles.

   I normally will LIGHTLY wipe, yes..., even the 'scraped surface' with a gray/grey 3M pad. If I see any 'crud' in the pad, I go back with a sharp edged 90 degree scraper without a 'hook'.

   The 3M pads with a flat backer block work just fine. And as well freehand.

   But then again, I have never made anything that will be considered for a museum display!

   AND.. I find that even OIL will raise some grain.. On some 'sticks' I have been working with.. As in QS Sapele. Oil will raise some grain. AND Oil will not go into some of the grain!

   I got all of my QS Sapele from one tree. When 'cutting' the sticks in my shop all looked well. UNTIL I applied my usual wipe on oil!

   I have NEVER seen wood turn that dark with a 'wipe' of Oil! And every stick is different shade of 'darker than expected'? And the laminated Panga-Panga does the same.. Sort of.. I love it! I think Mother Nature sent me a fallen tree she loved and I would care for it.. What ever color it turned out to be!

   And my beds also have Panga-Panga.. NO OIL gets into some of the grain!

    

   Edited 9/6/2009 9:04 am by WillGeorge