In my fix allowing a plunge saw to remain plunged, Hammer1, I think, raised a point regarding the safety of such an operation. Whilst I do not think it an extreme risk in my case, I have given the matter serious consideration, and today realised that the incorporation of a simple interlock such as prevents me opening the door of my lathe cabinet will overcome any misgivings. It will just be a case of drilling a small hole in the baseplate to allow the switch, mounted above, to cut power the instance the plate is raised. Now to source a small unit appropiate to the power supply and amperage.
I do so hope this post stays on track.
Replies
mufti,
Can you post the photos you had before on the Festool plunge saw alterations?
mufti,
To get the conversation going again, I'd say that, for me, I like the plunge action and would not want to change it. For me, it adds a lot of safety to my cutting operations. The plunge action is really smooth on the Festool saws, and the forward pushing motion of a cutting operation naturally leaves the saw in the plunged position.
One thing I'm wondering about. Which saw are you using? Is it one of the older models, or a newer one? I had an older Festool plunge saw, and I recently got the TS55, the newer one. The plunge motion is smoother in the newer one.
I wonder if there are ways to help make the plunge action more smooth for you, rather than losing the benefits of the plunge action.
Thank you, but no, I have already made the plunge action more smooth on my older saw by fettling the plunge action linkage to obviate the catching which occured. I am very pleased with my older saw and leave it to others to decide whether they wish to try my suggestions, but note that I still have the plunge facility as designed.
I did not keep the photos, expecting to be able to refer to them on knots if I wished.
mufti,
I think this discussion would dovetail nicely with the discussion called "Festool Saw Users" that is taking place concurrently.
Edited 11/20/2006 9:30 pm ET by MatthewSchenker
I have read that discussion and chose to confine this to my thoughts on a specific aspect of my original post. In the interests of promoting safe practice I intend to keep this post on track and focused, which may be boring but hopefully fruitful in its conclusion.
mufti,I don't think it's boring in the least. Nothing about using or improving (or buying) tools is boring to me.
To move the discussion forward, can you say a bit more about what you would want to see happen with these saws to improve safety?
From what you have said so far, I think the issue is not necessarily safety. Perhaps comfort and usability?
Matthew, less talk and more do will move this forward. I have solved the comfort and safety is my issue. My next post here will be to all on the fix of the fix.
Back when I was writing the manual on the old ATF55 saw, I needed a photograph with the blade plunged but I couldn't hold the saw down while taking the picture. I ended up removing the plunge return spring for the picture, but then completely forgot to replace it.
It wasn't until months later, after I had made a bunch of cuts, that it even occurred to me that the return spring was missing. What I liked about it was that as soon as I picked up the saw from the rail, the sole plate dropped down and locked into place like it should. I put the spring back in the saw when someone else was going to borrow it, and I didn't want any problems.
I didn't look closely at the modifications you made to your saw, but I would agree that doing something to lock the blade down is not a very good idea. Your interlock switch is interesting, but if someone simply placed their hand on the bottom of the saw while carrying it from workpiece to workbench, the saw could start unexpectedly, moreover, with the operator's hand already near the blade.
When Festool added the FastFix arbor lock/plunge lock to the new TS55 saw, they had to physically lock the motor from starting to meet safety regulations.
Thank you for those points.
1 The saw still plunges and releases as before, but the option is there to keep it plunged at, in my case, 1/4, 3/4 inch, and full plunge whilst cutting, unplunge on completion of cut. Lifting the saw from the cutting surface will cut power irrespective of blade position. The interlock is a small micro switch on the baseplate.
2 With the latest saw simply unclip the power cord for transit or turn off at the plug. I should mention that to carry the saw with the blade going the handle switch would have to pulled and the micro switch depressed at the same time, a two handed job. Even putting the saw down with the blade locked down and the power switch pulled would not restart the saw.
3 I am not redesigning the saw, simply modifying mine and writing this in case others are interested. It is always possible to imagine a situation in which common sense may be overcome, I have thought tha cars should have an inward facing spike on the steering wheel to encourage safe driving.
Edited 11/22/2006 5:13 am ET by mufti
mufti,
Your microswitch idea is interesting, especially since it does not require physically altering the saw. The Festool saws have really good inherent safety, so I wouldn't want to mess with that.Buy your microswitch seems to be a good solution.I would be great if you could post photos of this here. Is it possible for you to shoot one or two and post them?
I will post photos' of the fix when it is finalised, but that will be a week away at least owing to other commitments
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