I’m sure that this issue has been discussed before and apologize for bringing it up again.
What is the safest method of routing the top portion of a raised panel that is of some cruved design?
Thanks,
dlb
.
The undisciplined life is not worth examining.
Replies
No need to apologize.
I assume you are referring to the edge where it fits into the groove in the rails and stiles. This should only be done in a router table. If your router is powerful enough, use a panel raising bit, which can be as large as 3-1/2" diameter. In this case, you run the panel flat on your router table. If you have a smaller router, use a vertical panel raising bit and feed your stock vertically past the bit. Use a taller auxillary fence for best control. Either way, take small bites and gradually work your way towards the final depth.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying. I have a Freud panel set. When I make the two sides and bottom I use the fence, making 3 passes for each side, increasing the depth w/ each pass. Now all that remains is the curved top of the panel. The fence is pushed back & I am left staring at the panel cutter - not the most comforting sight! This is the heart of my OP. Making one pass to remove all of the waste is scary at best. Today I will try running the top of the panel thru the cutter several times, each time just removing 1/4" of material until I finally contact the bearing.
The undisciplined life is not worth examining.
I'd say skip the fence all together and just use the starting pin. Unless you have a fancy digital lift, it's hard to get top even with sides if not done at same time. Whether you use a fence or not, when doing top, begin cut on side of panel. That way curve doesnt come into play until you have the panel fully seated on bearing.Chris
Chris,
They make digital router lifts now? Jeez.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Can't tell if your joking or not...
You're serious about their existance, right? Then I'm serious too.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris,
Google digital router lift. There are several of them.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Sure as heck!http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp?pn=415-6600&sid=FROOGLE&EID=FR415-6600&bhcd2=1217095277
Edited 7/26/2008 2:03 pm ET by hdgis1
Chris,
That's a little too close to automated for me.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Humbly I disagree with what I think you are suggesting. When cutting raised panels with straight edges on the end grain or an arch on the top of the panel- I recommend cutting the end grain first so you don't get the tear out on the end of the pass.
I do not recommend cutting the sides of your panel till you have cut the profile in small incremental steps on the end grain. Each time I remove a little from the top(arch) I continue to the side of the panel as I move the rectangle (counter-clockwise) past the bit.
It will feel safe if you put the face of the panel down on the table and use the pin to get started. Make really small cuts till you get the feel and confidence. Continue from the end grain(top) around to the side grain going all the way around the panel. Step 2: raise the bit ever so slightly and continue.
Additionally I might add- if you are using a 3 1/2" panel bit in a table router - you need to bring the speed way down. The slowest speed on my PC hog is plenty with those big wing cutters.
just another input.
Im suggesting you put the pin to the right of bit and dip in from there. Starting on straight edge(away from corner), you will always have wood to support cut as you exit top of panel and swing back around to side.Chris
Personally I would not use a vertical paner raiser on an "arched top" type panel.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Just to add to the above post...You definitely need a bearing bit & make or buy a template to ride the curved shape against.
I have routed curved raised panels in the past. Not knowing I needed to have a pin to rest the panel against, I still felt uneasy about feeding the corner of the curved edge into the bit. I have since seen many pictures of these guide pins being used. Are there any guidelines on where to place the pin or how to feed the stock to the bit?
About 4" away from the bit seems to be the standard distance. Basically, it gives you leverage against the bit which will try to push your work to the right. I stand facing the table with the guide pin to the right of the router bit. Set your work between you and the pin while resting the edge against the pin. Then, keeping the work against the pin, feed the stock into the router bit. Once the work makes contact with the router bit's bearing, you don't need the pin.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
My starting pin is located to the left of the router bit(8:00 clock) position. You do not want to have the pin at the (4:00 clock) position. Material should never be trapped. With the 8:00 pin you can easily roll the panel into the bit while turning the panel in a CCW rotation.
I cut my panels to size first, double tape on the template for the arched top and bandsaw the arch within 1/8" of template then use a pattern or flush trim to clean the panel to the template. Remove the template. Install the panel raiser with the bottom of the bearing about 1/4" above the table and make the initial pass, raise the bit some and go for second pass, continue doing this till you have your 1/4" tongue on the panel. I make my panels 5/8" so I don't have to use a back cutter, I would NEVER use a panel raiser with back cutter for an arched door. More than one panel is not a problem, just do them all at the same time. Doing each panel at the different bit settings.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 7/25/2008 9:28 pm ET by BruceS
I wish I could say that I know a good reason to put the starting pin at some place other than 4 (other than it was what I was taught). Independently of that, it seems the starting pin cant serve its basic function of preventing a piece from being thrown out of your hand (and the mess that would result) if its at the 8 position.Chris
Edited 7/25/2008 10:44 pm ET by hdgis1
The starter pin can be used on either side of the bit. But in this situation I prefer rolling in the panel off the pin from the left. And starting on a straight edge, not a corner.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 7/26/2008 9:55 am ET by BruceS
"With the 8:00 pin you can easily roll the panel into the bit while turning the panel in a CCW rotation. "
Not sure how this works. It seems like you would place the leading corner of the panel against the pin and then by rotating the panel CCW around the pin, ease the panel into the bit and move it CCW. What about the lead section between the leading corner which was placed against the pin and the place where the intial bit contact took place. How do you cut that part?
Ok, I place the lumber down so a long side is pushed up to the pin and roll the board North west into the cutter on that same lone side. Once on the bearing I come off the pin. Always have the lumber going CCW, Back up and ugly things happen(climb cutting). A video would be great here.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I had to draw myself a picture. Is this correct?
Thats the way I do it, exactly! So if there is a catch, which has not happened YET to me. The piece gets thrown to the right and away from me. Some may not approve of my style but it works for me and I feel safe doing it this way. Many ways to skin a cat.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 7/28/2008 2:32 pm ET by BruceS
Edited 7/28/2008 2:36 pm ET by BruceS
Thanks a lot Bruce for your advice. Also thanks to everyone else who gave me pointers.
Would you do the same thing on a 5HP shaper with an 8" bit? Sometimes it's worth changing your habits. As you say, "Work Safe"!
Yes I would do it ! You will be removing the same amount of material but at a slower RPM.
The shaper panel raisers I have used are 5" not 8" but that wouldn't make a difference.
The difference in 3HP and 5HP is a mute point, both will throw a piece across the room if you are careless and both will chew you just the same. I actually prefer the lower shaper RPM. But a shaper and power feeder are not in the budget.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 7/28/2008 10:03 pm ET by BruceS
On outside curved work, you typically use a starting pin in conjunction with the rub bearing on the router bit. A starting pin is a vertical, dowel or rod that is placed near to the bit and provides an additional contact point for the work piece. This way you can ease into the bit. Where you place the starting pin depends on the size of the work. You don't want the work to be able to get caught and get sucked in between the pin and bit. You may want two starting pins, one to start and one to finish the cut. Normally, you don't use a fence with a starting pin.
One issue with curved stock on a router/shaper is running against the grain on one half of the cut. Folks sometimes climb cut on one half of the curve. To prevent the bit from grabbing and chucking the piece, you start at the end and nibble in, move ahead and nibble back. The key is not to have any waste behind the bit. Hard to describe in writing. I have a picture of curved project.
This is opposite what you are doing but I think you can get the idea. I used a curved fence on the router table for shaping the rails and had to climb cut to prevent grain tear out. The first cut is shown, just a small bite at the very end. I would move the piece slightly forward, drop on the bit and move towards the initial cut, just a little bite at a time. Once on the "downhill" side of the grain, you can cut as normal. Having a zero or close fit fence is a big help in many cuts. The fence can be concave or convex. Another common approach is to use a template. You attach the work to the template and it makes contact with the rub bearing. You still use a starting pin but not a fence. Clear as mud?
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