Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Aug 20, 2002 04:46am | #1

   My usual system for 'user' as opposed to 'collector' saws is very simple.  Remove the handle from the saw, place the blade on several sheets of newspaper, spray with WD-40 and sand with 200 wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block.    Add WD-40 as needed.  Flip and do other side.  You can use a 'scotchbrite' pad to do the same.  I tend to go lighter in the area where the label is etched into the blade to try to preserve it.  A bit of fantastic to clean up the oil and off to the sharpening service.  The handle can be cleaned in any way you feel is appropriate for the wood.  I finish it with a coat of paste-wax. 

   SaewdustSteve

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Aug 20, 2002 05:31am | #2

   Ken,

   I agree with Steve basically.  Carefully remove the nuts and then the handle.  Instead of WD-40, I use Liquid Wrench.  I set the blade on a flat surface, coat the top side with LW and let it soak.  Even overnight.  Then, with a fine paper, 220 or finer, wrapped around a flat piece of wood, I rub the entire blade.  Then, repeat the procedure on the other side.  Takes some elbow grease, but you wind up with a smooth saw that, when sharp, can be a great user.

   If the finish on the handle is in bad shape, I use something like Formby's furniture refinisher.  Then, I rub boiled linseed oil on it.  Let it dry, and polish it.  Then a good pastewax. 

   Clean the nuts, put it back together and you probably have an excellent saw.

   Alan

1. 
   bill_1010 | Aug 20, 2002 06:03am | #3

   while above would work, nothing like getting some pine 2x4s and just start sawing.  Sawing will remove the rust.  Rust will tarnish the saws so trying to get them back to a chrome like finish will be near impossible.

   Once youremove the rust sharpen them.

3. 
   Danford_C_ | Aug 20, 2002 04:49pm | #4

   Ken,

   Searching here is a real pain, huh?  I responded to a question on this subject a couple of weeks ago, couldn't find it.....

   Any who, what I do is remove the handle then use 0000 steel wool to "knock off" the loose rust, apply a thin coat of Naval Jelly, rinse with water, then wipe the blade dry.  I will then use 200 grit silicon carbide lubed with oil and lightly sand going down to 1500 grit.  I then give the blade a coat of paste wax.  I've done this with outstanding results; I have a Disston D-115 Victory and a Pre War D-7 and managed to "preserve" the etchings using this method.  I've also "restored" numerous handsaws for others using this approach.

   For the handles I sand with 150 or 220 grit aluminum oxide, then rub in a coat of boiled linseed oil.  FWIW.

   Dano

   For the hand

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
1. 
   rreeger | Aug 21, 2002 12:56am | #5

   Here is the thread that Dano was referring to.  Worked great for me!

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=7328.1

   RR

   Edited 8/20/2002 5:57:07 PM ET by Rookie

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Aug 21, 2002 03:08am | #6

   Dano,

   I used naval jelly once on an old saw and believe that it was not helpful to the etching.   In others than I have done using Liquid Wrench and a 300 or better grit on a wood sanding block took off the surface rust but does not sand down inside or into the etching. 

   Thoughts?  Your experience?

   Thanks,

   Alan

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Aug 21, 2002 03:51pm | #7

   Alan,

   Well, I've not had problems with Naval Jelly removing the etchings, though, I suppose that if it's globbed on that could be the case.  I should also make note that I'm very careful around the etchings and much depends on how heavy the rust is to begin with in regards to what grit I start off with.

   The D-7 was my first real attempt at saw "restoration" and since I only paid 50 cents for it at a garage sale I figured "what the hell".....and have done several Disstons for others.  The D-115 Victory was a different matter altoghether; since it is a highly sought after saw; they only made it for a couple of years (1917-1918 if my memory serves me).  Point is; on that saw I was extremely careful around the etchings and used 0000 steel wool and a thin coat of Naval Jelly, then went through the grits.  I was actually able to "bring back" the etchings so they were more pronounced.

   I've not tried Liquid Wrench but, it does sound like a good idea.  Next time I run across an old Disston that I can't live without, I'll give it a shot.

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

1. 
   KenMattie | Aug 22, 2002 10:47am | #12

   I wanted to report that I have successfully cleaned the one of the most rusted saws using an initial coat of navel jelley and then sanding the blade starting with 220 grit sand paper through 600 grit and it worked well.  It revealed the etching nicely but it left some minor dark stains, which I could not remove.  Thanks for the useful information.

   I have now decided I would like to replace the handle, which is split in several places and generally in pretty rough shape.  However, I discovered that the end of the blade that fits in the handle is shaped with a large radius.  I have no ideas on how I am going to cut the slot with a radius that will receive the radiused end of the blade. 

   Has anybody done this before?  Any suggestions? 

1. 
   mallard10 | Aug 22, 2002 09:17pm | #14

   Ken I belive Disston used a circular saw to cut the slot for the blade on the d7 & d8 model saws.I think it was to prevent the handle from coming loose.   Jerry

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 21, 2002 11:28pm | #8

   Hi Alan,

   Been lurking on this one for a while.

   Is liquid wrench what we call WD-40? That is, a light, penetrating oil in ####spray can that is sprayed onto tight bolts to loosen them up so that they can be undone?

   Cheers, eddie

1. 
   bill_1010 | Aug 22, 2002 03:09am | #9

   liquid wrench is non flammable, wd40 is flammable. Both do the same thing though.

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 22, 2002 03:43am | #10

   Thanks Bill,

   eddie

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Aug 22, 2002 06:25am | #11

   Eddie,

   Looks like Bill 1010 pretty well answered your question.  I would add that Liquid Wrench is also cheaper.  As you probably know, the same product in a spray can is always more expensive.  Liquid Wrench has also, I think, been around many years longer than WD 40.  It may come in a spray, but I haven't noticed it that way and have never bought it in a spray.

   Alan

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Aug 22, 2002 10:59am | #13

   Thanks Alan,

   Being in Australia, we don't have 'liquid wrench' and I had never come across it.

   We use bulk WD40 at work. Comes in your 1 gallon bottles & up. Thanks for the suggestion.

   Cheers, eddie.

   ps: are you aware that WD40 contains water? Needs to be completely removed to avoid problems later with rusting. Yes, I know that this goes against it's advertised use, but I still use it for short term cleanup. Just have also had a few products go rusty where WD40 has pooled. Thought that this might have been appropriate info for people who are using this sort of product for restoring collectibles. Thanks again for your help and info all - have a few saws here to clean up - will give it a go.

4. 
   user-671586 | Aug 23, 2002 05:37am | #15

   Here's what I've done: first, remove the handle, and do everything in parallel with the length of the saw, the same as the original grinding marks on the saw. I scrape as much rust off as possible, using a sharp plane blade, held vertically and bevel away. The width of the plane blade, applied carefully, should bridge the engraving. I use a Hock blade for this, it's extra hard, and stiff. Then, to get the remaining residue of rust, I rub down the saw with a Scotchbite pad and Comet kitchen cleanser, with water over the sink. Rinse it down, towel-dry it off (I finish off using a hair dryer---overkill?), and give it a coat of auto wax. They look pretty darn good this way !