In another thread relating to router table tops, Forestgirl made the interesting point that rather than get one of the expensive router lifts, she would get a shaper. I have the Bosch Fixed/Plunge kit, use occasionally but no table and was considering a table and lift. The work I do (wooden boats) has not had great demand for the router but in the future (cabinetry,etc.) I expect a router (or shaper?) will be valuable.
Question is ” What are the factors that would cause one to buy a shaper versus a router(with table and lift)?” I note that router manufacturers don’t make shapers and vice versa. Also thumbing through my recent Tool Crib catalog, I note shapers can run from a Delta “bench(?)” type for $239 to a Powermatic for about $2500.
All to say, this issue of routers,tables,lifts, and shapers seems confusing to me; can you all shed some light and guidance?
Replies
First, they are not mutually exclusive, in the best of worlds, you would have both.
I have a "shaper versus router" article on my web that I believe would answer your questions. http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/ShaperVersusRouter/shaper_versus_router.html
PMB
http://benchmark.20m.com
SAILALEX ,
To try and answer your question , personally I currently have 5 stationary shapers set up in my shop , however I use routers and my router table on most every job, but I don't always use the shapers. I have never owned a lift or a plunge router , although I have used a plunge router before and for certain applications they are much easier to use , but not required. It is all a matter of what you get used to and are comfortable with. With moldings and profiles on long or small stock a router table works great, as you don't have to hold the stock down while you pass a router over it. The obvious is that with a router you can take it to the work (boat) and a shaper you bring the work to it. The type of profiles and size of your cuts should dictate which machine will do the best job. Also the quantity you are running , you can run a piece or two past either machine for a short run but for long runs with a heavier cut a shaper can handle the job with less vibration and chatter . By using finger boards on the router table you can eliminate most of the chatter , as a power feed can on the shaper . You can build a table for your router in a short amount of time , by adding the table you will have created a new way of routing and shaping from what you are used to. Even if you were to purchase a shaper , a router table is a great addition to any woodworkers shop .
hope this helps dusty
The article that Phil cited is an excellent one, and has helped a number of people to make this decision. I've never used a shaper, but would caution against cheapies with less than 1.5HP (induction motor). That Delta shaper has a universal motor and a little tiny table. I've seen the Grizzly equivalent, and it seems to me it wouldn't be very useful, unless you're building mostly birdhouses or something else very small.
I think the aforementioned article should shed plenty of light on the subject. As to guidance, I'd suggest a good router (at least 1.5HP) in a solid, flat table with a good fence. Doesn't have to be real fancy. I'd also suggest not spending money on a lift of any sort until you've gotten some experience with the router and table and get a feel for what your needs are. Router lifts are a fairly new entry in woodworking, and certainly aren't necessary to do good work. Besides, at least two of the routers currently on the market have built-in above-the-table adjustment capability (PC890 and the newish Milwaukee router).
You might want to pick up a good general router handbook, such as the one by Patrick Spielman.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
" What are the factors that would cause one to buy a shaper versus a router(with table and lift)?"
IMO. People start with routers because they are less expensive than shapers. Routers are more versatile. (You can't pick up a shaper to do an edge detail that your significant other would like on the cabinet you just built and weighs 300 lbs....:o) If a person is starting out in woodworking the cost of a shaper and tooling seems prohibitive. Especially when your just trying to figure out how to afford the table saw.
Of course this leads to getting a bigger plunge router because you spent a lot of money on bits. Making a table because you already have a big plunge router. So on and so forth.
At least that how it started for me.
Enjoy!
With any tool expediture, you should buy the tool that is appropriate for the job you want to do. All tools have their danger levels. When you fire up a shaper it is immediately obvious that you don't want to screw up with that bad boy. The cutters and accessories are more expensive than router bits and not always available at your local woodworking shop. Most are reversing. For shaping either heavy or production runs, a shaper is the way to go. This should be an industrial level purchase in my opinion.
Why anyone that can drill a hole in a piece of plywood would buy a router table is something I'll never understand. When it comes to changing bits in a router table it is more convienient to be able to work above the table. This can be accomplished with a drop in plate, a lift or wrenchless collet. When ever possible, shaping or routing, I make a zero clearance fence. I only rely on bearings and rub collars when hand routing or shaping odd shapes. With curved shapes I also use guide pins.
For someone who has not much experience with either, I would recommend a router. The investment will be much smaller and it will have a variety of other uses around the shop. When you get to the point where the router can't handle the size or the load, get a shaper.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Like most of the other responders, I have both a router table and a shaper. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages, depending on need or use. First of all, let me caution you, there is a difference and if you make a mistake in trying to make a tool do something that it wasn't designed to do, check your hospitization policy before firing up that tool! Oftentimes, people put a 3 1/2" to 5" diameter bit in a 1 1/2" h.p. router and try and make 300 feet of homemade crown molding. Wrong application! That's a job for a shaper and if you dont have one, go and try and rent some shop time at a nearby trade school or high school wood shop. Don't put yourself and possibly other family members in the way of a router bit spinning at over 100 m.p.h. breaking up and shattering because it couldn't handle a job that it wasn't designed to do. On the other hand, I wouldn't use a shaper to run 20 ft. of 1/2" round over on a piece of trim for a project. In this case, a router in a table would be just fine.
Basically, for me, it boils down to need and use. If you can justify a shaper, by all means, get one. If you can safely perform up to 95% of your woodworking edge shaping and other tasks with a router, then a shaper may be more of a want than a need.
OK my $.02. I have 4- 3Hp routers, and 3 trimmers. and 3 shapers with lots of custom ground knives as well as standard cutters. If some higher power handed down a decree that I had to choose one or the other, I would choose the router.
I would not waste my money on anything less than 15 amps, and 1/2" chuck.
I never buy a router bit with a 1/4" shank that can be had in 1/2".
Thanks for all your comments; they were very helpful and did shed light on the issue. Particularly benefited from Phil's article (Thanks, Phil) and Forestgirl's comments on the Milwaukee router(with the adjustment feature, why get a lift?). Thanks for your help.
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