Replies

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Oct 19, 2006 06:35pm | #1

   Just acquired Bench Dog with plastic top. The fence will slip on the slick plastic. A cast iron top, though smaller, probably would have been a better choice. I will never understand the horsepower race in routers.

   Cadiddlehopper

1. 
   yellowtail | Oct 19, 2006 06:58pm | #2

   Thanks for your reply. I just finished reading the Router book by Lonnie Bird and am as uncertain which way to go as ever. I plan on using the router table for a lot of different work including raised panels, so I thought the larger hp router would help. I saw the Veritas 12" round steel plate type table on the Lee-Valley web site and wondered if that may be a good choice. Thanks, again

2. 
   mike_b | Oct 19, 2006 07:17pm | #3

   This may be of some help to you -- FWW # 181, Winter 2005/2006 Tools & Shops Annual Issue has a review of router tables.

   You can read the intro here:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/fw_181_036.asp

3. 
   sparrow | Oct 19, 2006 07:30pm | #4

   I just got the full Jessem set up w. miter slide, etc. It went together easily and cleanly and works as slick as a whistle so far. Dead flat, robust, finely adjustable. I put the big PC router slug in, and it's nice to be able to change bits up on table top easily.

   Cost about CDN$2000 altogether.

   I would be nice to have vacuum collection hose adapters with the product. They seemed an odd size and wouldn't hook to the pvc fittings i had on hand.I've discovered that the Jessem outlets work with ShopVac 2" stuff. I was looking to connect my Festool vac to it, and it is a different size of course. Now it looks like it will be hooked into the central shop system.

   Anyway, I'd recommend Jessem products so far, based on just a month of experience.

4. 
   art | Oct 19, 2006 07:44pm | #5

   Build your own! Get exactly what you want and save $.  Art

1. 
   yellowtail | Oct 19, 2006 07:55pm | #6

   Thanks for your reply. I may just do that. Any suggestions on design problems or things to be wary of? Also, is it practical to mount the table on the estension table of my table saw?

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Oct 20, 2006 02:00am | #11

   There is a Bench Dog top which fits table saws as an extension. That is what I wish I had chosen. It is cast Iron, a little smaller with slightly shorter fence. You can reach all router controls from underneath avoiding the purchase of a router lift. The fence probably won't slide on the cast iron as mine did. Even if it would, something can be clamped to a table saw to back up the fence. BTW, I studied diligently the FWW review of router tables before buying. It didn't help very much since there are about twice as many on the market as FWW looked at. Also BTW, the Bench Dog was available from an ebay store in CO for $319 including a pair of feather boards & shipping. There are others with CI tops. I strongly recommend considering CI as a top material.Cadiddlehopper

5. 
   Routerman | Oct 19, 2006 07:57pm | #7

   A lotta variation on that theme. Another take? See the RT-CD-R link.

1. 
   yellowtail | Oct 20, 2006 12:47am | #10

   Thanks for your input. I'll probably purchase your CD

6. 
   forestgirl | Oct 19, 2006 10:50pm | #8

   I have the Vertias steel router table top, and I've mounted both a PC690 and a Freud FT-whatever (3+ HP plunge router) in it.  Can't say enough good things about it!  It will be flat forever, it has a universal mounting clamp-system underneath that enables you to put any darn router you want into it without having to make an insert.  Bits are easy to change above the table, because the top is thin.  You can use magnetic accessories with it.  You can put it on a simple portable frame, or make a full-fledged cabinet for it.  Take a look here.  You can see the top alone, or see their sets.

   I have my top on a frame that is hinged to the left side of my table saw.  It makes a great aux. stock support, but can be dropped out of the way if I need floor space.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   yellowtail | Oct 20, 2006 12:46am | #9

   Thanks for your input. It was very helpful.

2. 
   SCMedLion | Oct 20, 2006 05:45pm | #15

   How big is the center opening without inserts? 

   (Edit)  Couldn't find a dimension on the lee Valley site.  Probably right in front of me - like anything my wife asks me to find in her purse, just can't see it there.  :-)

   Edited 10/20/2006 10:56 am ET by SCMedLion

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 20, 2006 07:22pm | #16

   That's OK, I'll run out an measure for ya.  Lemme get another cup of coffe (overslept this morning).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 20, 2006 07:38pm | #17

   CORRECTION....Don't know where my mind was when I measured the other day.  It's 3.6".   The attachment pic shows the hole, with the router base cluttering it up.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

   Edited 10/21/2006 12:16 pm by forestgirl

   
1. 
   SCMedLion | Oct 20, 2006 09:48pm | #18

   Thanks,

   I was wondering if the Lee Valley plate might be too small for panel raising bits.  Like the universal design though.  One of the main tasks I want to use a router table for is panels.  I just got a Freud bit well-discounted off Amazon. 

   One of the first projects I ever did was to build a router platform and construdt my own phenolic insert.  It was pretty sloppy, but I've used it.  I got the fence design off the net, and it's pitiful.  Would like to upgrade but still build something instead of pay through the nose.  I like the set-up you described.

   Thanks,

   Matthew

1. 
   nrench | Oct 23, 2006 02:17am | #27

   For any and all questions regarding routers or their tables I would recommend visiting patwarner.com. He is pretty much the router guy for any questions. He has submitted things to Fine Woodworking before and I know for a fact that he is passionate about everything to do with all sorts of routers.
   Nate

2. 
   campy | Oct 23, 2006 03:24am | #28

   I recently saw a new router table made by Sommerfeld Tools in Iowa, It is made from heavy aluminum extrusions and is 27 in. wide and 36 in long with a 48 inch fence. It has a single circular opening with three insert rings in the center. Top and bottom are CNC flat!!. It looks to me to be the answer to all the short-comings of existing tables and inserts. It is a bit pricey but if you want a flat surface with minimal surface irregularity this is it. I plan to purchase one soon. It isn't on their website yet.

7. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 20, 2006 02:56am | #12

   Tail. just did this several months ago, After many years of sheet metal, alunimium and moisture absorbing ratty MDF tables, I did the Veritas system (that you will not see in reviews as it is not a table as such) and hung a Milwaukee 3 1/2 that will cut anything a router can do safely. This isn't cheap but neither are the results.  You don't need a jack up system as the top pivots up easy. Most top of the line modern large routers already have bottom wrench adjustment but I still haven't seen the need to bore a hole in my table due to the easy access,

   The easy way in is to buy the top, fence and cross sled, hold downs and build the wood case with the plans that they provide and clamp it to a bench. This table DOSEN'T deflect and is deadly accurate. good luck, Pat

8. 
   Railyn | Oct 20, 2006 06:57am | #13

   I have the Porter-Cable 3 1/4 horse with an EZ Lift in a table that I made. I am presently working on a set of panel doors and it works great. I would not go lower than a 3 horse. The panel bit requires a lot of hp. With the 3 1/4 I am able to run in one pass with no burning.

   Ray

9. 
   MatthewSchenker | Oct 20, 2006 03:39pm | #14

   yellowtail,
   After trying a few cheap router tables, I set myself up with an Incra system from Woodpeckers. Here's the system I have:
   - LS Positioner (elegant engineering)
   - Precision Router Lift (can't imagine table routing without it now)
   - Porter+Cable 7518 router (a real workhorse)

   I bought the LS Positioner, PRL, and a table in one of Woodpeckers' package deals. I've been using it for close to two years. I bought the Porter+Cable router as a refurbished model about five years ago, and it is still going strong.

   The whole system is just amazing, and I use it for so many functions. It's at the heart of my workshop.

   Here's a link to the Woodpeckers site:
   http://www.woodpeck.com/index.html

   Let me know if you have any questions!

10. 
    Mumda | Oct 21, 2006 05:28am | #19

    I love my BenchDog promax cast iron table. It's attached to my table saw. Well worth the $300 IMO.

11. 
    dukeone | Oct 21, 2006 06:18am | #20

    Y.T.: I have the PRL from Woodpeckers, P.C. 690, top and fence from JessEm. All work fine together and should keep going for just about ever. Is there something about phenolic tops warping over time? Maybe developing a dip where the weight of the router and the lift pulls down? Mine is still nice and flat after about three years.

    KDM

    "... if people did not die so untidily, most men, and all women, would commit at least one murder in their lives." R. Kipling

    
    

    ---

    Edited 10/21/2006 10:24 am by dukeone

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Oct 21, 2006 07:51am | #21

   Mine also, dukeone. I re-inforced it under-neath with andle iron, especially in the area of where the insert sits. Haven't been problems for over 3 years and I don't anticipate any.

   Regards...

   SARGE.. 

1. 
   dukeone | Oct 21, 2006 05:16pm | #23

   Sarge: Did you do the reinforcing just to cover any possibility of sag or are there reports out there of trouble along those lines? When I bought the top/lift I was thinking that it was a "final" set up but if I need to do something to make it stay flat I will.

   KDM "... if people did not die so untidily, most men, and all women, would commit at least one murder in their lives." R. Kipling

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Oct 22, 2006 12:13am | #24

   Actually KDM, I don't have a bought one of phenolic. I just made one to suit me out of MDF and re-enforced it. Depending on how thick, wide and long your top of phenolic is, I can't see it sagging as phenolic is pretty hard. Try cutting a piece of it. It's like cutting steel.

   I think if you have gone 3 years and no sag with phenolic, I can't imagine why it would in the future. My MDF top hasn't sagged as it's 1 1/2" thick and as I stated.. re-enforced.

   Regards...

   SARGE..

   
12. 
    John Bass | Oct 21, 2006 12:25pm | #22

    Check out Woodpecker.  They have a good selection and I am impressed with the quality of the one I purchased.  I am modifying the design from New Yankee workshop and Woodpecker had a top large and strong enough to meet my needs.  They also do custom if you need it

13. 
    Turbo | Oct 22, 2006 05:48am | #25

    Consider perusing Jointech's Yellowtail: http://www.jointech.com

14. 
    ohiobob | Oct 23, 2006 12:53am | #26

    I don't know how high end your looking for. I bought a table from Woodhaven for my Bosch 1617 and it works fine for me. They also sell lots of jigs and accessories for the table.