I have a Delta Unisaw and I would like to put the router table on the out feed end. the table saw is set at 35″ tall and the router table is 34″ tall. I do not want to lower the router table because it is at a very comfortable height. The router table has a fence and dust chute attached. These protrude 5″. I do not want to remove this because of the complexity and I use them frequently, The router table and chute are made by Freud. What i would like to do is be able to slide the router unit under the existing table saw extension, then have the cabability of raising the router table back to the correst height of 34″. Any advice would be appreciated. Rusty
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Replies
Forgive me, I'm OLD...
I have a Delta Unisaw and I would like to put the router table on the out feed end. the table saw is set at 35" tall and the router table is 34" tall. I do not want to lower the router table because it is at a very comfortable height.
1) on the out feed end... Means to me as behind the TS blade after the 'sticks' are crosscut/ripped.
2) the table saw is set at 35" tall....
3) the router table is 34" tall...
4) I do not want to 'lower' the router table because it is at a very comfortable height... I for one would never think one inch of table height would make that much difference.. But then again I'm old...
Pokin fun at ya' in a nice way. I think? Maybe not the way YOU think I should... I hope ya' take it that way. Or am I missing something?
My favorite router table (I have a few) is a Cast Iron BenchDog? that replaced the Right (last or the right hand end) of table of my TS...
Maybe lower the TS (if possible 1/2 Inch) and raise the Router table (if possible 1/2 Inch)??
I guess the only thing I see is that you want both to be at the same height for 'stick' support along the length?
I do understand that some sticks NEED AND HAVE TO HAVE.. support for the whole length when doing profiles. And then again all you need is some sort of holddown's to do that at the cutting bit! I think!
Hey WillGeorge!
no bragging on this site, some folks need that extra inch.(lol)
I didn't make it clear that the dust chute on top of the router table is an additional 5" high. This would make the complete height 39". I do need the saw out feed table and router table the same height. I would lay long boards on the tables and there is no room for discrepancies. The right side of the saw is against the wall. Maybe if we lower the router with the capability of raising it easily with some sort of scissor lift. Then store the router unit under the table extension. Don’t know just rambling on.
"The router table has a fence and dust chute attached. These protrude 5". " I read your response to WillGeorge, sounds like this statement is accurate:
"The router table has a fence and dust chute attached, adding 5" to the height."
Is the router table set-up a cabinet, or something simpler? I have an idea of how it could be done if you were starting from scratch, but it would completely mess up any kind of cabinet with drawers and such.
Forestgirl,
Your correct on the set up of the router.. I don't mind changing the stand for the router. The existing is ok, nothing to brag about. The space under the out feed table of the saw is unused. I realize I could put storage cabinets there, but I have plenty of that. The main port from the Dust collector is next to the saw. The joiner, planer, and sander are also there. Seems logical to have the dust producing router along. Also I like the idea of having the table saw as a extension for my router. I know there is a way of making a scissor lift for the router and have the best of both worlds. Hope fully some one has done this before or has a better idea, Talk later, Rusty
Not sure if this will work but here's a suggestion.
I just made an outfeed table for my Unisaw and was faced with a similar situation. I didn't want to rout channels into the outfeed table as at some point it will be a downdraft table/outfeed table.
So I set it up such that it aligns about 1/16" below the bottom of the mitre slots when using sleds on the tablesaw. I use sleds a lot. The base for the top has channels that the top frame sits in. I tethered strips of 3/8" shim material that I can slide into the channels thus raising the table to 1/16" shy of the tablesaw top for ripping operations. I should think 1" shims would also work.
Regards,
Oh, and the downdraft table is plumbed for dust collection. I used a section of flex pipe for the downdraft/outfeed table to accomodate the height changes. So far so good. My router is in the right extension wing.
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 3/20/2009 10:59 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Hey Bob,
There is no end to imagination. I like your idea of downdraft table/outfeed table connected to the DC.
Best,
Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -
http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com
Rather than using a scissors jack, I'm imagining (not very detailed yet!) an articulated top that, when not in use, would pivot forward and down, such that the router table top would end up perpendicular to the floor, in front of the sides of the stand. I don't have time to draw it out and figure exactly how it would work, but perhaps imagine the sides being divided up into 2/3rds and 1/3rd. The top is the 1/3 part, and those sides fit outside the lower 2/3rds (like a top on a box), and would rotate out and down, or up and in, perhaps being tightened in place by a knob and threaded fitting.
Sorry, that's the best I can do right now, sleep calls and a big working weekend!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Bob, Thanks for your input. There is still the issue of the dust and chip collection chute that is raised 5" from the router table. Even though the chute can be removed with 2 bolts and the bit lowered or removed. This would be very inconvenient as I use the same bit at a certain height further into the project. And I Ain't Smart Enough To Precut My Pieces.
Forestgirl, I understand what your saying, good thought. The top 3rd. is the new top which becomes the bottom 3rd , therefore the old top is back to it's original height, Whew! What did we just do? Good thought!!
If I decide to use the base for router and bit storage. The weight of these and the cabinet may become very heavy. I still think someone else has dealt with this issue and either came up with an idea or reconfigured the layout,
rusty
Rusty,
Can ye make it a flip top? Could adapt my suggestion about 1" shims and flip it between tasks. Ishould think that would simplify the construction and you could have the heights you want.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
And could do this on one or the other??
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZyguUCdw4s&feature=related
NO I do not have one but if I ever need it a almost perfect answer if you can work without plans..
A VERY underated solution to most height/movement problems. Not Plasma Science or Fusion Reactors.. You only need some thought on how high you want the thing attached raised. OK, if the floor is not level maybe some yellar' X's on the floor to match things up!
You da man,
Great idea, I'll research it more and let you know of the out come
Thanks
Oh, wow, I love the retractable wheel arrangement on that one! Thanks, WillGeorge!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
http://www.jack-bench.com/workbench%20plans%20-%20how%20it%20works.htm
something like this
I saw that, Looks as tho he did a great job. a little complicated for me
That jack bench is brilliant. I've been looking to build an adjustable assembly table using a scissors jack, but couldn't come up with a way to solidify the top once it had been jacked to where I wanted it. This guy has apparently done it.
Thanks for posting this link.
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
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