Hi everyone!
I want to build myself a router table. I got the Bench Dog Pro-Plate and a Triton router. I’ve done a lot of searching and collection of information regarding building router tables and I see a lot of ideas.
But when it comes to the question of installing the router plate, I have a few questions:
1) In John White’s article – Space-Saving router table – it looks like the plate is supported by the heads of 4 drywall screws.
– Is it really only 4? None in the middle?
– Wouldn’t the weight of the router bend the plate since it’s supported only at the corners?
– What is done to hold the plate down to the table?
– It looks like John attached 3/4″ thick plywood flanges to hold those drywall screws. So that means the drywall screws extend up from the flanges at least 1/2″. Would it be better to fill in those flanges so that only 1/8-1/4″ of the drywall screw extends above the flanges? Would that cut down on vibration plus put more threads into the wood?
– Does the downward pressure/weight of the router compress the plywood fibers around the drywall screws, over time?
2) Cutting a rabbet
– I have a 3/4″ pattern bit (top bearing, 1/4″ shank). But that’s too long get the bearing to ride on the inside face of the 3/4″ plywood template I constructed, and still cut a 1/4″ rabbet.
I looked for a 1/4″ shank, 3/4″ dia, 1/2″ cutting length bit but I don’t see it. Can anyone suggest a vendor?
– what width of rabbet is sufficient to support the plate? 1/4″?
thanks!
Gregg
Replies
Bits
Here is the bit I would use, IF, The template is the same size as your insert plate
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v102-0552b
Bit # 102-1012B
Thanks for the source!
Can you explain why you'd pick the 5/8" diameter bit vs the 3/4" diameter bit?
I am under the impression that the 3/4" dia bit matches the curvature at the corner of the plate.
Gregg
Doesn't matter
If you have the insert template it doesn't matter what the diameter is, The bearing will follow the template. Also the 3/4 dia.cutting length will probably be too long to keep the bearing on the template unless you shim the template up from the router table with spacers attached with double sided tape.
Another story
Home made template makes a difference that I didn't catch
3/4'-3/4" bit should work, IF the insert has 3/4" dia. corners.
I made the bottom lip for my insert 1.250 wide, till I routed it out and installed the Kreg leveling system. It is nice in the fact that you can screw down the router plate for a secure mounting with NO vibration. And there are 8 leveling screws/ 2 on each corner.
Kreg plate supports
Hi Bruce,
Yeah I put a 3/4" circle template on the corner and it matches pretty well.
Ok so then let me ask about the Kreg system:
I take it you find that supporting the plate at the 4 corners only does not allow the plate to sag under the weight of the router over time?
I saw pictures of the kreg supports - do you fasten the plate down using the threaded inserts on the corners?
thanks,
Gregg
Kreg supports
Your plate, I believe is 1/4" aluminum plate. and I would not expect it to warp under the weight of the router over time. But it is not a bad idea to remove the router and plate during non-use. You can always insert a blank plate and use the table as a work surface.
You will have to drill and countersink the four corners of your plate so you can screw it down. Warning !! when tightening the hold down screws use a gentile snug. You can pull the inserts out of the leveling device.
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