I’m in the process of slowly building my first real router table and am designing the unit in steps as a go along. I have made the top described in Bill Hylton’s Router Magic and am now mulling over my options for the insert plate to drop into it.
I intend to use my 2 1/4 hp DeWalt 618 router in the table, and have been browsing everything from the very expensive Veritas round plate to the Rousseau phenolic plate sold by Highland Hardware, which seems to be the thriftiest choice. Cost is an issue, as this is a hobby, and I’ve got kid college costs coming up in a couple of years. I’ve sort of settled on this phenolic plate offered by Woodpecker because I like the variety of insert rings available for it.
http://www.woodpeck.com/tlrphenolicplate.html
Anyone have any experience with this one, or advice on choosing an insert plate?
Norman
Replies
Hi Norman, I built my first router table a few years back and inserted a phenolic plate. Maybe it was that particular run of plates but I had to countersink the screws and the phenolic material kept chipping out. Wound up working fine but I recently replaced everything with the Veritas steel table (had a few bucks burning a hole) which I really like. Especially the clamping system underneath. My Milwaukee 3 1/4 just went out and I switched it out in just a few minutes (including centering) with another router.
Brian
Hi Norman.... The 'problem' with all these plates is (are?) that each company makes its own size, so if you start with the Rousseau phenolic plate, your next upgrade has to be ths same size or larger, otherwise you will have to make a new top for the table. This may be the time to consider springing for a good plate and not have to recut the hole three years down the line. I'm using the Rousseau plate on a home-built table, taken from the 'Router Workshop' design. It's good, but not great. After a year or two, the plate developed a stress crack radiating from one of the router mounting holes to the outer edge. It has NOT affected the accuracy of the table, but it sure doesn't look pretty. Drilling the mounting holes takes a bit of skill in placing the router base so the mounting holes are concentric to the router shaft. There are many many different router raising systems out there, all expensive but nice. You don't say which router you plan to use, but one of my friends just purchased the new Trinton Router and it looks like a good one for a table-mount.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Seven or eight years ago, I built my router table. I made the insert for it, couldn't think of a reason not to. The insert was made from 1/2" thick plywood.
Inserts aren't available, but I've never felt the need. I cut/drilled a hole for the bit which is just a bit larger than my biggest router bit.
When I replaced the router with a bigger one, I re-bored the hole, since the bigger motor can handle the bigger bits.
That hole -- probably approaches 3" diameter -- has not been a problem for me. Nor has the 1/2" thickness of the insert.
That table and insert have seen a fair amount of use. And if/when it finally wears out, I'll probably make another just like it.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
I went this route: I built a wide long table at the rear of my tablesaw outfeed table. I used a jessem, master (universal) router plate I bought at Woodcraft for $75.00 it's aluminum and will not sag as some of the plastic ones are reputed to do. I also sprang for the insert kit.
I hung a 3 1/2 Milwaukee fixbase router on the plate and I don't mind lifting it out to change the bit. It has a dial for adjusting the depth.
The main reason I went this route was that I didn't want to spend $250-$300 for a lifter after spending $300.00 for a beefy router.
http://www.jessem.com/mast_r_plate.htm
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_27_40028_-1_192199_192137
your milage may vary.....
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http://www.drawingwithlight.smugmug.com
I have seen, essentially, 2 or 3 sizes of insert plates - the Benchdog size, which is probably the smallest, to the sizes offered (normally) by Woodpeck, Jessem, and others. You might also take a look at Woodhaven's products - they also offer insert plate levelers - pretty handy to get the plate as even as possible.
Personnaly, I have a Benchdog top, with a Woodpeck Uni-Lift - I was 'overjoyed' to see someone make this side plate for the Benchdog top, because I couldn't use the Benchdog lift with my router (Milwaukee 8625).
I don't have any experience with the particular plate your inquiring about, but I have used the Rousseau plate for many years now and it has not sagged or cracked. I've also installed the leveler system from Woodhaven, which has worked very well. The only complaint I have had with the Rousseau plate is that it's difficult to get the inserts in and out of the plate. The plate your considering looks to be easier to get the inserts in and out of as it's a twist lock method instead of the push out method of the Rousseau. It also has more insert sizes. My router table was built from the "Shop Notes" magazine issue No.1. It's a good design and has worked well, but I may be upgrading soon. The whole top itself has sagged a little over time but not the phenolic insert. Let us know what you end up doing.
Danny
Since no one's responded on the Veritas round plate, I'll add what I can. I've never used anything else, other than a 30 yr old Craftsman aluminum table, so I can't give much in the way of comparison. I like the steel plate for using magnetic featherboards, etc., which I already had. I made my table enclosed for dust collection purposes & didn't allow room to drop the router out of the bottom (er, top) of its base, so I have to lift the router & plate out to change bits. With the big PC router & the steel plate, the assembly is heavy, but manageable.
I will say that I have a friend that has made quite a bit of fine furniture with nothing but a scrap piece of plywood for a router table. He uses scrap wood & a couple of C-clamps for a fence. A fancy router table's not necessary to do good work.
I've been using a piece of plywood clamped to my workbench as well, and it's been serviceable. Given how easy it is to build a router table and cabinet, I figured I'd take it on as a long-term project, dedicating an hour to it here and there.One of the dangers of a forum like Knots, is that your list of must-have tools expands quickly—even when lesser tools do the job just fine.Norman
Edited 1/14/2008 9:04 am ET by nboucher
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