First time posting, but a long time reader of the magazine. I am a serious hobbyist who finally purchased a used Delta 10″ Contractors Saw, Platinum Edition with Unifence…Don’t laugh, but for the past 20 years I have been using a Makita bench top saw that I had built into a 30″x 60″ table (I think I found the plan in an old Fine Homebuilding). While I have successively built numerous pieces of furniture for family and friends over the years with my “little” saw, I am really looking forward to putting this new “toy” to good use. And best of all, my wife has given me her blessing! (my practice wife was never to keen on the idea)
I plan on using the side auxiliary table of the table saw as my router table…that way I can get rid of my benchtop router table since my shop is small and space is at a premium. My question is a fence system for this new router table. I have researched numerous designs and want to know what the experts think. I plan on recessing a T-trak for a miter gauge, but should I build a fence system that utilizes another set of traks, perpendicular to the miter gauge for the fence to travel on? How about a fence that simply pivots on one end and is clamped on the other? I like the idea of a split fence with dust collection, but don’t see that working too well with a fence that pivots. Does anyone have any suggestions, advice or pics they care to share?
Replies
Big subject but you've hit
Big subject but you've hit the high points.
Notwithstanding, you're near the brink of the analysis/paralysis syndrome.
I'd say start with a pivot and work your way up.
As you complicate the thing, the more its apps.
But most importantly, don't select/build a fence that's featured to hit 99% of what's presented to it when 95% of the time you don't need the stuff.
I wouldn't spend my money on
I wouldn't spend my money on a Rockler set up, they are way over priced.
Taigert
Remember that square and parallel have different significance on a router table than on a saw. As such, the thought of using a miter gauge for end cuts might give way to using a sled, instead. The T-track parallel to the nominal position of the fence is still handy for finger boards, however.
I like the idea of a heavy steel or aluminum angle, with a notch in the middle for the bit, as the foundation of the fence. Properly machined, that ensures that the fence will be (almost) perfectly perpendicular to the table.
A pivoting fence works, but be careful of too much slop at the pivot point. Both ends really need to be clamped because of that.
If the extension table is the stock table it might be a little bit too thin and have a tendency to sag, so reinforcement would be a good idea. Also, something to consider, most router table operators stand facing the fence, more or less, not in line with it.
If you want to go ahead with it, I'd suggest that you skip the miter slot. It's really easy to use a square or rectangular block to push the work piece, and a heck of a lot easier than getting the fence and miter slot into alignment. WRT the fence I'd suggest that you build an auxilliary fence that attaches to the face of the Unifence and use that. I've drilled (gasp) a couple of holes in the upper part of the tall face of my Unifence, which I use to attach auxilliary fences that I use for rabeting with a dado set and a high fence that I use for beveling panels.
All that said, I had a shop built router table for a period of time and gave it up for a Bench Dog cast iron wing extension router table that is attached to the saw. It comes with a good fence, has a miter slot (that I don't use) and has T-track for attaching guards and finger boards on both the table *and* the fence.
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