Replies

1. 
   edsshop | Jan 28, 2009 04:17am | #1

   I recently made a new table and am very happy with the functionality. I know that a lot of people are building elaborate cabinets and those are great but I was looking for the table and went with two layers of 3/4 MDF glued with Weldwood contact cement and topped with white formica and edges witth hard maple to give it a nice finished look.

2. 
   BORKBOB | Jan 28, 2009 05:25pm | #2

   I'll throw this out there because I don't see it mentioned very often. I made my router extension using a top from a Sears contractor saw. There is enough room to cut an almost 9" wide opening (I shaved a bit off both sides of a Hartville insert) between the miter slots. I filled the remainder of the throat opening with metallic epoxy. I had to make "ledges" to support the insert and I had to drill some holes in the right wing to mount it to my saw. I also made a leg using black iron pipe to support the weight.

   I use one miter slot to secure my shop made fence and the other for sleds or finger boards. It should be noted that the miter slots on these saws are slightly under .75", so aftermarket miter gauges will often not work.

   A nice bonus was my being able to shift my Unifence rail to the right to gain about 6" of rip capacity.

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3. 
   PeterThomson | Jan 28, 2009 06:08pm | #3

   I agree, doesn't have to be fancy.  I use 3/4" hardwood ply with some hardwood strips glued underneath to stiffen it up a bit.  I just screw into the router base from above to hold it in place, there are fancier ways to mount the router (plates, etc.) but I haven't had the need.  Guess it depends on how often you switch from table to handheld routing.

    

   Pete

4. 
   boilerbay | Jan 28, 2009 06:37pm | #4

   Andy,

   "As of now I'm kinda just winging it"--good one

   You might want to take a look at how David Marks upgraded his from a flat panel to a torsion box.

   http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/item/4957/david-marks-shop-tour

   It's long, but about 1/3 through it, he talks about it.

   Hope this gives you some ideas.

   Boiler

5. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jan 29, 2009 03:46am | #5

   I made mine from one layer of 3/4 MDF, and one layer of 1/2 hardwood ply. I did two different-sized cutouts in the two layers, so that the bottom layer is left as supports for the router "plate".

   The router "plate" is more of the same 1/2" ply.

   Both the table top, and the plate, have formica surfaces.

   I used a piece of pre-drilled angle-steel from Lowes to mount the edge to the tablesaw top. I made two adjustable-length legs from scrap boards, to hold up the outboard side.

   I made a ladder-style fence extension for my saw's fence, which did not reach the left side extension. When I need to use the router and the fence, I use clamps to hold the fence extender in place.

   The formica top has a slot for a miter guage, and I bought the aluminum miter-slider to go in it -- it really holds my miter guages very well as a result, but I've also lived with just a plowed-out slot in the wood.

   The setup works nicely, but it has some disadvantages.

   There is no dust collection, and I'm beginning to wonder if there ever can be, without significant redesign. Currently, chips and dust go both up, and down through the hole.

   Because I built my own "plate", I am stuck with a single-sized opening for the bit. And since my biggest bit is huge, the hole in my plate is huge. If you use a pre-made plate, there are (usually) three or four bit-hole-thingies for various sizes of bits.

   All bit changing happens by unplugging, then lifting the router-and-plate out of the table, onto the tabletop. (But this is true with most table mounted routers.)

   Preliminary bit height settings are done before putting the plate/router back into the top. Final adjustment of the bit height is done with me on my knees, reaching beneath the table. As an alternative, I could lift the beast out of the table another time.

   But note that I said it works nicely. I've done cope-and-stick doors, with raised panels. I've added contour edges to tables I've built. And recently I did a dropleaf table with rule joints.

   Hope this hasn't overwhelmed.......

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