Router Table Build: Check My Sanity
Had some of this in “Power Tools” forum earlier, probably the wrong place.
– Why do all the router table “builds” that I see have double fence slots? Why isn’t Bob Van Dyke’s single pivot fence, with heavy clamping on the left side a preferred method? Why can’t a heavy duty cam lock be used instead of a big C-clamp like Bob uses (which, to me, is a good example of the elegance of simplicity.) What’s the downside, if any?
– Can’t build up over my Bosch table saw extendable wing, so I’d like to build something with cleats that can be clamped to a workbench. How wide is enough? I’d say the length of a long coffee table apron ought to be enough for good infeed/outfeed support. Thoughts? Who’s done something like this before? (BTW: BVD’s fence is a beaut. Solid. Manly. Love it.)
Tom
Hartford WI
Replies
I too have wondered about the logic of a router table "double fence slot", a single pivot with a secure lock-down on the other end makes so much more sense, easier to adjust/keep accurate; the same applies to drill press fences. A cam-lock on a single pivot point can work, but clamping BOTH ends of the fence would be a lot more secure/accurate (think about tablesaw fences that clamp on the front, vs both ends).
My only other comment on homemade router tables is, DO NOT use the 1/4" phenolic plates that you can custom-drill out for different routers, that many of the "Rock-Craft-Depot" sell for home-made tables; they're easy to cut/drill into shape, but they flex, badly. After kicking my third home-made table to the curb, I spent some buck$ and bought a CI replacement to my tablesaw wing, with a decent router lift, and am wishing I'd done this 25 years ago...
It's not the norm because it's not the norm.
I'm with you though... as shown in the photo below. My fence pivots on a single point. Clamp one side and tighten the other. So in covers Botch's concern as well.
I've had it this way for at least a year or two. I am obviously not a woodworker who LEANS on their router table, but I haven't really found a downside. As you can see, I thought I'd get clever and measure out distances from the CENTER of bit and mark them on the table. Not worth the time. Too confusing and I never use it.
Sir,
Thanks for your thoughts. Have considered repurposing the plate from the old Bosch router table, at least until the household CFO approves a router lift (maybe Christmas?) Also, ran across a PopWood online article from Doug Stowe (19Nov20), "Simple Router Table" that I might "hybridize" with the very recent (No. 275, Oct/Nov24) Woodsmith build, "Small Shop Router Table." Nothing in that build that would prohibit a single pivot fence. The fence is stouter, solid like Van Dyke's. That's where I saw that cam lock feature, but like you and BVD, I like that SOLID C-clamp opposite the pivot.
/VR/
Tom
Hartford WI
I built my router table a number of years ago with about a 2" overhang on each side of the table. Without knowing any better, I rigged the fence to capture an old C clamp on each end so they move with the fence and can grab the table edges. So, when I get the fence roughly set into position, I snug down the clamp on one side and then fine adjust the other end of the fence. This way, an adjustment on the end of the fence ends up being 1/2 that distance at the router bit. It makes fine adjustments a snap. Then, snug down both clamps and go.
I have a fixed router table/base with the "double fence slots" and a mobile router top that I can clamp elsewhere with a fixed point at one end. Both work just fine and I don't have a preference for either. BUT the one downside to a fixed point system as you adjust it is that it changes the angle that the board passes across the router top. So if your router table/base is stationary against a wall and you are routing a long board it may hit that wall on either the infeed or outfeed ends. Just something to be aware of. Of course no reason you can't do the "double fence slots" and just loosen one end most of the time for fine adjustments which is what I mostly do anyways!
I see some reasons to not have a pivoting fence. Main reason is that you ususally have a preferred ergonomic position for using the table (especially if you have a large router table), and your shop might be optimized for a certain travel direction of the workpiece. A pivoting fence changes this. If you have the router table against a wall, a pivoting fence will not work for longer pieces. Same goes for pivoting fence on the drill press. I also see a risk of small freeplay as the pivoting hole get slightly worn over time.
Edit. Sorry, see now that post above mine already mentioned the travel path for the workpiece.