Hello All,
I have just purchased a “portable” bosch table saw and would like to make a cart/stand for it. I have also purchased another router as I would like to make a router table and I thought to combine these two into one cart.
I notice that most routers are mounted on the right side of the table saw. I was thinking of making my router table the outfeed table of the saw instead – getting both in one space (my shop is unfortunately very small). if I make an easily removable fence, I cannot think of any other problems that might arise
Anyone know of problems with the router table as an outfeed table for the table saw or why most manufacturers put the router on the right side of the table saw? I would appreciate some of your experience before I cut wood!
Thanks
Jim
Replies
Jim, good question-
"...why most manufacturers put the router on the right side of the table saw?" This configuration allows the user to use the TS fence for cutting and routing operations.
If your space does not allow this, your proposed configuration is the next-best configuration.
Cheers,
T
Putting a router table top, especially a heavy cast-iron one, to right or left of a TS is usually dictated by practical reasons. Quite often there is only one place it can go. On the Grizzly for example you can't place it on the left because the tilt mechanism is there, and Grizzly makes a router top that is wider than the usual RH saw wing so that the router itself will comfortably clear the handles etc. on the saw.
On my SC hybrid you can't replace the right TS wing because the door for the tilt mechanism is there, and you couldn't open it without fouling the router. If you wanted a router table on the right it would have to be on the extension table of a 50" fence model. You can replace the left wing, but have to use a wide 15" router top that allows the router to clear the saw's tilt handle, which is on the left. One disadvantage of having the router there is that you can't accommodate wide boards with the router fence on the right -- there's only about 7" between the router bit and the edge of the table. You either have to have an outfeed support to the left of the saw, or swap the fence around and feed the boards in from the rear.
The right-hand placement is more convenient, if possible.
At one time I had a separate router table on wheels which doubled as an outfeed table for a contractor saw, without any problem.
Jim
If your router table has a slot for a miter gauge or coping sled, I'd make sure it runs parallel to the TS blade so outfeeds won't catch on it. Perpendicular slots for the RT fence should be kept out of the outfeed line, as well.
Jim, a suggestion. How about having the router table a couple/three inches below the level of the table saw and making an outfeed "cover" that you could drop in place when you need it?? That way, if you have a set-up you want to preserve, you don't lose it by having to remove the fence and drop the bit.
What makes me think of this is the couple of years I had my router table top (Veritas steel) mounted on the left side of my saw with hinges. In that case, I could simply drop the table down when I had an important set-up I didn't want to change. You could accomplish the same thing by having a saw-level cover that drops onto your top.
Thank you all for the good tips! I need to think this one through a bit more, you gave me some good options. I will post a finished picture!CheersJim
forestgirl has a point that bears considering. Quite often I rout a profile on on wide board, then rip off a piece of trim, then repeat the process. If I reset either of these setups, the miters of the trim pieces wouldn't match.
Thank you for the tip. I am actually a very small time wood worker. If I manage 2/3 case peices and 5 carvings a year, I'm good. Until now I have built boats and furniture but EVERYTHING has been done by hand so I don't really work in larger quantities or production runs. My biggest problem is space and noise (I use a small 15 x 20ft basement storage in a complex with 6 appartments). Formost, it needs to be moveable (on wheels), compact and have basic router table functionality.Thanks again and have a great day!Jim
Anyone know of problems with the router table as an outfeed table
Old router table user here.. I have several.
Only thing I can think of is if you leave a bit sticking up!
I think one poster mentioned that the table should be a bit lower than the top saw table. I agree, but not to low!
Seems like you have a portable saw so why not a portable router table. Use where you like it. It has nothing to do with the saw. Or the router to the saw, except cutting the sticks!
I have a very small shop also and I have a cast iron router table on my saw.. On the right side. Why I have several tables.. Sometimes I do not want to disturb my saw set-up. EDIT: Or router set-up.
Edited 11/6/2008 8:35 pm by WillGeorge
Thanks Will!
I figured the set up would be a rolling base with locking casters for the table saw. Space under the table for multiple drawers and storage. The base would be a lap joint "cart base and the table would attach to this base. The router table will use the same locking casters, same type of lap joint wood base and the total height of the router table will be about 1/4 inch lower than the height of the table saw. Both "carts" will be individual but the matching bases will have a clasp to lock them together. I can then use the router table or table saw, push them out of the way individually and lock them together if I have longer peices to cut on the table saw.I don't do so much (or any) production work really, having spent the last 20 years with hand tools, I think the added router (the bosh model with two bases) the table saw and the thickness planner will be enough of an improvement in speed that even if I need to change setups, it is still a HUGE improvement of prepping all stack by hand!Thanks again for your tips!JimCheers
it is still a HUGE improvement of prepping all stack by hand!SOMETIMES I still have to do that! Great exercise for the heart!
For what it's worth...
I mounted the cast iron router table/table extension of my left-tilt Grizzly cabinet saw to the left of the blade. The table is designed to be mounted on the right, but I changed things around and mounted it on the left - bassackwards.
The reason is that the area to the left side of my saw is open whereas the right side has my dust collection cyclone mounted in very close proximity. There's just no room over there to stand to use the router table feature.
Despite the distance of the router table's hole from the saw's blade, I can still use the saw's fence as a fence for the router table. I simply built an extension onto the fence - incorporating dust collection too - and clamp that to the saw's fence whenever I need to use the router table. It's quick to set up, quick to break down, and I like having the cast iron extension on the left side of the blade.
It's worth looking into if you haven't already decided to do something different. The use of the saw's fence is a valuable part of this equation. Of course you can also do that if you mount the router table to the right of the blade - as long as you have room to maneuver on that side. It just worked out to be the better arrangement for me to have the router table on the left.
Zolton If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
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