Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 10, 2002 04:23am | #1

   Since it doesn't have soft-start (and I'd guess doesn't have variable speed either) your situation would be improved with a speed control for the router.  Most catalogs carry these, and they come in 15amp and 20 amp versions.  Cost is between $19.99 and $29.99.  You could use this to solve the start-up torque problem by adjusting it to a slower speed for start-up, then cranking it up to whatever speed you need before starting the work.

   I used mine for the first time recently, and found it to be immensely helpful.  (after shattering a straight bit on some oak, I consider the variable speed to be a primary safety device)

   Can't help with the router plate -- I'm saving up for the Veritas table and quit looking after I decided on that beauty.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/9/2002 9:24:47 PM ET by forest_girl

1. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 10, 2002 04:46am | #2

   You only need double thickness if you're adding a mitre slot, otherwise you can frame out 3/4 by itself. I used quality paper faced ply and then varnished right over the paper. Made for a really good surface. I had a mica covered one and didn't like it because it was too slippery. I prefer a little drag.

   i also used 3/16" aluminum plate for the base after breaking several acrylic ones. I made it rectangullar so I don't have to f ight the handles getting router out of the hole. A larger base plate is nice because I drilled a series of holes in it and use it as a trammel point for cutting small circles by just inserting a screw. Plus, it never breaks or sags.

   I also have an ancient Black & Decker with more torque than a helicopter, but it still works fine in the table. No big deal because I'm not holding it when I turn it on.

   Have fun with your table: you'll probably make a half dozen of them until your done and discover that any old table will do as long as it is big enough. After 15 years I'm still using a hunk of wood with a bolt through one end and a clamp at the other for a fence.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 10, 2002 04:51am | #3

   Thanks none, I'll pass all that info along to Tim (LOL! tongue-in-cheek)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 14, 2002 09:16pm | #6

   Gotta be careful where you click around here ;-0. Just neverknow when yer gonna do the wrong thing.

   Hey, I saw your pix of the router lift. I didn't understand the point of that -- could you explain?

   BTW, I'm Dave, not "none" (at least not none yet). I screwed up on registration and can't find a way to correct it.

   Dave of Florida as opposed to PA. Dave and WA Dave and all the other Daves.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 15, 2002 05:40am | #7

   Hi Dave of Fla, I'll try to remember!  The router lift pics were from S4S if I remember correctly -- he had posted them as attachments, but the were super-big files, so I edited them for him and posted them directly into the message.

   You can go back and change your nickname -- what'd you do, type "none" in the box?  That pretty cute!  Click on "My Forum" and when the page comes up, click on "My Preferences" and go down the page to the nickname box and type something in there -- it should change to your new nickname at some point.  Or, if you've grown fond of "none" you could just add a signature (further down the page, almost to the bottom) "Dave from FL" or whatever.  I try to always look in a poster's message to see if there's a "real" name I can use when I address a response, some have 'em, some don't.

   I'm glad you're not really none yet!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 16, 2002 05:06pm | #8

   No, I think I just failed to put anything in that box. I tried once to correct that couldn't see how. Thanks, I'll try again.

   I was asking about the router "lift" because I didn't understand the reasoning behind it.

   Dave of Fla.

3. 
   forestgirl | Aug 16, 2002 06:25pm | #9

   Hi Dave, if Mark hasn't left for the weekend, you could contact him for help on the name thing:  mailto:[email protected]

   I'm assuming that S4S's router lift is to facilitate raising the router height without actually bending over and underneath the table.  I've seen designs for home-made router lifts in magazines, but never been inspired to make one myself.

   Hope your weekend is good!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   user-24343 | Aug 11, 2002 07:04pm | #4

   I've used Woodhaven's phenolic inserts to mount routers in shop built tables.  I got started on this type when they came out with a leveling system some years back.  For a few bucks they'll sell you a template for cutting the hole that will fit their plates and you then attach the leveling bars under the table.  It's an easy to install, reliable system that I've found to be a good value.  If you want to buy a pre-built table, fences etc., they've got it all.  I've always made my own, but if you want one of the extruded aluminum fences with the integral stops and other gadgets, Woodhaven has been around and has gotten good marks for the items they sell. 

3. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 14, 2002 06:27pm | #5

   Tim -

   This is my somewhat unusual solution for a router table.  I just embedded it in the end of my rolling workbench.  I have a 4" duct underneath hooked to my 1200 cfm DC.  The space underneath is inclosed by a 12"x12"x12" box made of 1/4" plywood.  I clamp boards from one side of the workbench to the other when I need guides. I will say that it definitely is stable!  A switch on the side of the bench turns it on and off.  Has turned out to be quite useful.  See the pic.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood