What is the proper method of freeing a router bit from the collet for bit changes?
I place a 1/2″ rubber grommet in the bottom of my collet to prevent the bit from bottoming out. As the collet tightens, it pulls the bit slightly compressing the rubber. After loosening the collet nut, the collet does not release. I have been applying a couple of taps with the collet wrench to the side of the collet nut.
I am wondering if these sideward forces can damage my router.
Greg
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Replies
I don't think you need the rubber grommet -- just hold the bit out a little prior to tightening.
If a bit sticks (and they do 90% of the time), I just unscrew the collet nut all the way. On one of my routers (a PC), the collet is designed so unscrewing the nut actually pops the bit free. The others not, but it's easy enough to get them out once the collet is off the router.
I would not recommend tapping the side of the collet to free a stuck bit.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
I find that it only takes a very gentle tap on the collet nut to loosen the bit and don't think that would cause any harm.
What kind of router do you have? As Mike notes, many (most?) router collets are designed to pull the collet out when you unscrew the nut past a certain point.
-Steve
Milwaukee has a double release.. it it free after initially loosening it with the wrench and then hits a spot where another slight turn with the wrench is required. So.. depends on the router as on most I have owned a slight tap on the collect does it.
Sarge..
Triton MOF001KC. It is supposed to have an auto releasing collet. Apparently it does not work. It takes several serious taps to free the bit.Greg
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What happens if you keep unscrewing the nut?
-Steve
It comes off and the collet stays jammed into the shaft.Greg
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I don't have that router, but looking at the online manual, it doesn't look like that's possible. The collet nut on the one you have must be different from the one in the manual photos.
-Steve
The 1/4 inch collet and nut are attached making it self releasing. But the 1/2" collet requires several substantial impacts with a wrench to unlock it. This can't be good for the bearings and surely would eventually effect runout.My opinion may not be valid as one "old-timer" said it is a standard way of removing bits from a router.Greg
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"...The collet nut on the one you have must be different from the one in the manual photos."That's not the only thing that is different from the sales claims. I'm not saying they practice deception. I believe the repair people learned the limitations are greater than originally thought and the marketing people at Triton haven't embraced the reality on this tool.The Triton did get Best Value and Top Performer accolades from FWW in a recent router test.Unless I got a one off lemon, this one does not perform up to their claims. The rep at Triton said my parts are covered by warranty, but it will take a few months to get them. He also said "I'm guessing you are adjusting the bit height from above table using the crank as a router lift." I am because that is why I bought the router. The sales material I read said I could. In making my purchasing choice, I first spoke with Triton in NY and they said I could. However the service rep says to only use above table adjustment for micro adjusting bit height and "NOT TO USE IT AS A ROUTER LIFT". I wanted a lift but didn't want to invest $500 for a router and a lift. I invested $300 for the Triton and table insert believing I was getting a lift integral to the design. I got about an hour of use from this investment. Now I'm going to invest another $285 for a Milwaukee (for a total of $585) and still won't have a lift. Plus in 2 months I'll have an additional Triton router that I don't need.The cheap ends up expensive. Greg
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Edited 5/12/2009 11:08 am by Cincinnati
I have the Triton 2 1/4 HP router as well, but haven't had the collet problem you're describing with the 1/4" or the 1/2". Unfortunately, sounds like you received a wonky part.
Thanks for providing their comment about not using the above-table crank as a lift, intriguing that they don't mention this in the ads (or in the manual, far as I can tell).
Cheers,
Peter
Greg,I agree with Peter on the collet release. No problems at all. As far as using the micro adjust as a lift, well I haven't tried it.
I do find the handle winder coarse and fine adjustments so easy to use that I have not drilled the table top to accept the crank. That being said, I would have difficulty using the fine adjustment for lifting mainly because you have to release and engage the plunge lock each time you change the bit height, so the table top crank is of limited convenience.Other than the collet nut you didn't buy a bad router, you under estimated the requirements of your application. Welcome to the real shop.
If I were not so far away I would gladly buy your Triton from you once repaired, but I doubt that anyone on this forum would suggest that more than one router is a bad thing.
On the topic of inserts, Pat Warner makes this comment."I restrict my routing to cutters < 2.25" so my table top is simple, cheap, thin (5/8" MDF), has a small cutter hole and no insert. It remains flat and deflection-free, bolted to 6 dovetailed beams in the top of the stand. The router casting (from a PC 7518) has been bolted to the slab and adds a measure of stiffness/flatness right in the center where it's needed most. What's right for you? Only you can answer that. A 1,2 or 3 layered ply or fiberboard top, clad in plastic laminate, trimmed with maple, window-excavated, rabbetted for an aluminum insert/lift, and fitted with concentric cutter hole rings is not an uncommon sight. This teck has kept it simple so far but I have complicated the fence."when I purchased my Triton I decided to try this instead of buying another insert. It works.Don
Don, Thanks. I agree that I probably don't have a bad router. It will be perfectly good once the worm gear is replaced. But I question if it will break again after another few hours of use.I do disagree that I "under estimated the requirements" of my application. I clearly knew what I wanted. I ran these parameters by the sales people at Triton. They affirmed exactly what their sales brochures claimed. Namely that the router has a "built-in lift". I asked specifically about this feature because I wondered how an after market lift at $300 was included free in the design. I inquired what compromises were made over the lifts. I even mentioned that with one or two others having this same feature, it wouldn't be long before the lift companies had no market for their product.My beef with Triton is two-fold:1. I made my purchase decision on the information they gave me. Now that my router failed the repair tech is telling me the router adjustment cannot be used as a lift. I am not saying they intentionally deceived me. I simply believe they do not know the limitations of their product. 2. I bought a 3 year warranty. But since they do not stock parts in the US, it's a 2 month wait on the slow boat from the orient. This makes the warranty virtually useless to me. I agree it's not a bad thing to have an extra router. But I don't need one that just sits on a shelf. I already have a DeWalt 625 on a Woodrat. I was totally pleased with the Triton router while it worked. I have had several conversations with Triton in NY and find their knowledge weak and their operating procedures inadequate. I am cautious about publishing negative information about a company in a public forum. My disappointment is not that the router broke. Stuff happens. My disappointment lies in how they respond to a customer with a new product that failed.Greg••••••• Exo 35:30-35
Edited 5/14/2009 1:29 pm by Cincinnati
I had this problem something fierce with my pc7518. The 1/2" bit went in very tight and I had to remove the bit completely with the collet and push it out. I assumed it was tight tolerances. I took the collet and some blade & bit and wet/dry sand paper on a 3/8" dowle and worked the inside of the collet a bit. The diff was amazing bits drop in the collet and when I unlock the bit, is slipps out. I did not adjust the dia of the collet, just got some crud out. Also, check your bit shanks they could have some crud as well(speaking from experience). It does not take much. I have a rubber gromet in the bottom as well. No issues now. Give it a try it could not hurt.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Greg......
Sounds like you have some crud built up within the collet. Remove the collet and nut. Carefully clean all surfaces on the collet, the inside of the nut AND the inside of the motor shaft where the collet sits. Use 409 or Simple green to remove any pitch build-up and then do the same with laquer thinner. Use an old toothbrush or a hand-held wire brush to get into the nooks and crannies. DO NOT use a power-driven wire wheel as it is too abrasive and can scratch the mating surfaces giving you more problems. Just a bit of wd-40 on a
q-tip to lube the tapered surfaces. NO lube inside the collet where it holds the bit.
As someone else said, push the bit in until it bottoms out, then pull it out 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The rubber gromet is not needed.
SawdustSDteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Thanks for the recommendations. I've done everything except lube the outside of the collet. There is no pitch buildup as I have has less than an hour of use. It did this on the first bit ever put into the router.Greg
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Just scribble on the tapered surfaces of the collett with a pencil. The graphite is a great dry lube. The tapered surfaces need to be able to release from the socket. Think of drill presses where just the friction of a taper is all that holds the chuck on.
RichThe Professional Termite
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