An old Boston Whaler boat I am restoring had some very interesting mahogany hand rails attached to the bow seat. To recreate the handle in teak, I built a template that enabled me to use a flush cutting bit in my router. It worked OK.
Recently, I used my jig saw and drill press with a sanding attachment to make a pattern from 1/2″ ply so that I could recreate the profile of an old handsaw handle. This time I screwed it to a piece of plywood, held a blank on it with a piece of double sided tape and cut it with a flush cut bit. It worked OK. I learned the hard way, however, that I need to cut the template from 3/4″ stock so that I have enough clearance for the bearing guide – without bottoming out the bit.
How do you make your router patterns (I am not yet using a router table). Wondering if there are any shortcuts that I should be using or applying to the practice.
Replies
Spent chapter 13 on that subject in "The Router Book", a Taunton publication.
Could be in you library by now.
RTMN
Don't know if this is what your asking, but when I made a bunch of starting blocks for the local swim team, I made an MDF template to the final shape and held everything together with a vacuum pump then used a router with a bearing on the end. I rough cut the blanks first so the router wasn't going thru the whole 3/4" ply. I used closed cell foam tape (sort of like weather stripping) on the template. After cutting a hole in the template, you just hook up a tube thru the hole turn on the pump, and let the vacuum do all the work. Vacuum pumps are pretty cool, you can clamp all kinds of things with them.
BTW, MDF makes a better template than ply because ply will sometimes have a void between the layers that then need to be filled and sanded otherwise the bearing will dip into the gap causing a dip in your cut.
Dan019
Dan: Good thought on the MDF. Ran into that issue last night. Made yet another pattern to be able to easily cut Zero clearance throat plates.
Right now, I am using a 3/4" pattern screwed down to a piece of plywood. The latter I can quickclamp down to a bench. Then use two sided tape to hold a blank on top of the pattern. Am not sure I understand how you set up your vacuum. Do you use a shop vac or is this a dedicated vacuum that you also use for veneers, etc? How and where do you connect hoses, etc?
It's easier to show in a picture than explain it. After I get the shop cleaned up, I'll do a quick mock setup and post the picture for you. I use a simple dedicated vac pump, but I'm sure you could also use a shop vac if you want to listen to that screaming monster the whole time. Hey maybe I'll even send in pic.s of my shop to Taunton since I have to clean it up anyway!
BTW, I've just received notice from FWW that a method of work of mine will be published in an upcoming issue. It's a way to use a planer in place of a jointer for wide boards. This is the first time I've actually taken time to submit something. Usually I come up with an idea and procrastinate for a year or three then someone else comes up with a similar idea and gets published. The digital camera definately makes it much easier to submit; my drawing talents leave much to be desired. Dan019
I have a bunch of router templates for table tops (each one is for a different length edge).
3/4" oak ply (becuase it looks nice). Cut with a bandsaw and then sharp internal corners are filed and the externals are sanded with a 1/3 sheet hand sander.
Robbie,
In addition: Router bits are available in many sizes including short ones that will enable you to use 1/4 inch templates. You should have a good selection of both top and bottom bearing bits. Also, a set of router guide bushings may be helpful.
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