I built, from a plan, one of those router tables that mount on a WorkMate- Works great for me- But it has the split fence, one side of which is adjustable independent of the other- This is supposed to allow the router to work as a jointer, which I expect it will, if I can get the hang of it- A couple questions: Can someone describe the best relative arrangement of the fences? Better yet, what should I know about this and how best to go about doing it? Thanks-
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Replies
make an extra set of faces for the fence, then put a piece of plastic laminate on the outfeed side face.
to set up, align fence so that a straight edge along outfeed fence just touches the cutter if the bit. This will take off the thickness equal to the thickness of the plastic laminate and joint the edge. Use a spiral bit for a cleaner cut
Thanks, Rick- Much obliged- Dave
You want the fences perfectly parallel to one another with the outfeed (left) fence protruding just a little bit, the depth of cut (< 1/16"). A straightedge along the outfeed fence should have the same gap along every part of the infeed fence, showing that they are parallel. Now set the fence position so your router bit is in line with the outfeed fence. You can check that with the straight edge of some stock along the infeed fence, cutting a few inches, and stopping. If the stock hits the fence after the bit, the fence is too close behind the bit. If there is a gap between the cut part of the stock and the outfeed fence, the fence is too far behind the bit.
Alan- Thanks for the help, much obliged- I'll give 'er another try- Dave
One example at the link.
Thanks All, and roger on your destructions- Fences parallel, infeed back a 16th, stock neither hitting nor missing the outfeed fence, outfeed even with the cutter edge- But I keep recreating this long graceful curve which I've been trying to eliminate in favor of a straight edge- Any further ideas? I've never been a quick study, but this can't be brain surgery, can it? Thanks-
As in operating a jointer, you need to place your feeding pressure on the outfeed fence not on the infeed too. After you have gone about one third of the length of the piece, change your pressure to the outfeed side. Otherwise, you will make rockers. It's not real easy on a router because you can't take too deep a cut. Snapping a line or drawing it with a straight edge, and taking off the worst with a hand plane first, can help.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Well......., why didn't I think of that? I'm outa here- Letcha know how it turns out- Thanks for the thought- Dave
That's a 1000% better, Hammer- Much obliged-
Thanks for the link, and a look at your site- Looks as if it'll be very helpful to me- Much obliged- Dave
Dave,
Just in case you didn't already know, the "Routerman" who supplied the website link is none other than Pat Warner, one of the foremost experts on routers in the U.S.A.
Boy, are we lucky to have people of his caliber contributing to Knots!
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Edited 6/7/2005 11:50 pm ET by jazzdogg
I'm lucky to have the Knots forum- It's sure been a help-
But it has the split fence, one side of which is adjustable independent of the other- This is supposed to allow the router to work as a jointer.. Yes it do!
My router fences... I made a third section of fence.. Just larger than the biggest bit you normally use... Just a holder and some MDF so you can run the bit throught for ZERO clearance.. REPLACEABLE so not a headache.. You just replace the small part of the fence and save the gooder parts!
EDIT:
I forgot.. You run the bit through so it just breaks the exit edge and your other fence sits there watin' fer that cut off stick...
Edited 6/9/2005 12:10 pm ET by Will George
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