Replies

1. 
   sawdustfactory | Apr 29, 2007 12:24am | #1

   You may want to look at a "combination" set with two bases, a fixed and a plunge, and one motor that fits both bases. I purchased a Porter Cable set about five years ago and have been happy with it. A search of current reviews will give you some good options. There will be several in your price range. You may want to consider what you plan to use it for, freehand or table mounting, or both. That may impact your decision.

   Good Luck.

2. 
   Routerman | Apr 29, 2007 12:31am | #2

   This one has hit Germany, Switzerland, UK, Pacific Rim, now from the Chech Republic and still good in spite of its stepchild status.

1. 
   Midnight | May 02, 2007 12:28am | #23

   <chucklin..

   first thing I thought when I read the original post was "I bet Pat recommends the 621"... excellent choice and an awesome router...Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

3. 
   frenchy | Apr 29, 2007 12:32am | #3

   doyland2000

    I second the Portor cable two base model.. I own one, have used it for years and it's never caused a lick of trouble..  Normally I'm not a portor cable fan but their router is really the standard of the industry.. their may be better plunge routers out ther, ther may be better fixed base routers out there but the package is decently priced and worth while.

4. 
   Knotscott | Apr 29, 2007 01:22am | #4

   HI James - I have no idea where most of the routers are made, but it'd be hard to go wrong with any of the combo kits from Bosch, Makita, PC, DW, or Ridgid. Find out which one feels best in your hands, then check the origin....they should all fit your price range.

5. 
   EdHarrow | Apr 29, 2007 04:11am | #5

   Triton.  (Made in Taiwan)

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Apr 29, 2007 04:34am | #6

   Agree on Triton. I have the 2 1/2 horse model that came with the kit of bushings, the edge guide, etc. Hae been most pleased.J

6. 
   user-211435 | Apr 29, 2007 07:49am | #7

   I would recommend a Porter Cable 690.  I have 5 or 6 of them, and still use the first one that I bought in 1977 every day.  I think it cost me $75.00 new and has probably paid for itself by now.

   There are other routers out there that I use too, but this is a good one that will probably still be made in 20 years.  And as a newbie, you don't want a router that is too powerful.  This one is just right.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

7. 
   Cincinnati | Apr 29, 2007 03:19pm | #8

   DeWalt DW625 or  the PC 690 series

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/29/2007 8:20 am ET by Cincinnati

8. 
   UnclePablo | Apr 29, 2007 03:44pm | #9

   James,

   Another vote for Porter Cable. We have something like a dozen PC routers from the past 20 years or so in the commercial shop where I work. They are work horses, reliable and accurate.

   -Paul 

9. 
   Jfrostjr | Apr 29, 2007 05:31pm | #10

   James

   I have a DeWalt 618, 2 1/4 HP combo kit (fixed base, plunge base, edge guide, 1/2" & 1/4" collets, dust extraction) that I will sell for $125. I have used it about half a dozen times. I will pay shipping to "lower 48".

   I've caught the Festool bug and would like to buy their router for use with their guide system.

   Frosty

1. 
   Shalom | Apr 30, 2007 06:25am | #12

   Has anyone on this list used the Milwaukee 5616-24, a Two based router kit? It's the "Editor's Choice" in this month's (June 07) Popular woodworking. It's also been recommended (I think ) in FW somewhere, but I haven;t been able to find the edition. I have an old two base Porter Cable but the nut on the base has worn away because the wrenches that come with the tool are thin stamped rather than cast. Now I have to use a combination of  pliers and wrench to tighten the collet. Not fun. Shalom

1. 
   [email protected] | May 01, 2007 06:31am | #13

   Are you talking about the flats on the shaft, or the collet? 

   I have used PC routers with the stamped wrenches for years, with no problem.

1. 
   Shalom | May 01, 2007 06:42am | #14

   I don't know what it's called Jigs. There are two nuts for each of the wrenches. One wrench holds the collet, he other. . . I guess it's the shaft. I have to hold the shaft with a pliers because it's worn away. I was told it's not replaceable and was advised to get a new routeer. As I noted in my previous post, I saw a very positive evaluation of the Milwaukee two base kit and wondered whether I should trust a magazine's judgement. Shalom

10. 
    [email protected] | Apr 29, 2007 08:50pm | #11

    Before you buy anything get a copy of "Woodworking With the Router", by bill Hylton.  It is an excellent primmer on the subject, and gives good solid advice on what to look for in a router, and how to operate one safely, as well as plans for quite a few useful jigs-n-fixtures, and a couple of different designs of router tables. 

    Things you want to look for irrespective of brand:  availability of both half and quarter-inch collets; good selection of accessories, (virtually every router jig, guide bushing, base plate, etc. is available for, designed around, the PC 690 or 890 series); variable speed.

    I'll tenth or whatever the PC 690.  The variable speed kit would suit your needs well for around $200, or if you shop well you can get the newer 893 series for about $280, which is close to your target of $250.   HomeDesperate, and Lowers usually have good sale prices just before father's day, if you want to wait that long. 

    The 890 is a modernization of the 690, with a little more power, and the ability to change the bit from above the table when you mount it in a table, better depth control in a table than the 690, optional add-on dust collection that works as well as anything else I have seen.  etc. 

11. 
    jackplane | May 01, 2007 01:08pm | #15

    stay away from sears, and ryobi.

    Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   Ray | May 06, 2007 09:27pm | #41

   What's wrong with the Ryobi?  I've had the 3-base model for several years.  The fixed base stays in the router table & I use the pistol-grip or plunge base for hand-held router work.  It runs true and the collett is centered.  I'm not in any WW business, it's hobby work only, I bought it just to get a big router with a 1/2" chuck so I could make window sashes for our 100-year old house.

1. 
   Hastings | May 07, 2007 03:50pm | #42

   Ray:"…I could make window sashes for our 100-year old house"A little off topic, but could you share how that is working for you. What bits did you use? What joinery? Did you make the cases as well? What wood did you use? What finish? Was it difficult?We have a house of similar age and some of the windows are in poor condition. I have been thinking that I could do that!Thank you,Hastings

1. 
   Ray | May 07, 2007 04:07pm | #43

   I bought a couple of clear DF 2X4s for the window, found a router bit that had a similar profile (wasn't too concerned about authenticity) for the interior side.  Just a plain rabbet for the glass side.  I used bridle joints in the corners and pegged them with a 1/4 inch dowel.  Hardest part was cutting the groove for the sash rope.  I assume there was a special plane to cut that on the original.  My biggest problem is the bottom rail on the upper windows, after 100 years or so, they sag pretty badly.  I used Douglas Fir for strength.  Considering the price, I'll probably use spruce or pine for the rest of them.  (lots of windows too).  Sash repairs were just pine 1X6 cut to match and the one sill I replaced was made from a piece of 2X6.  The local glass dealer gets $36.00 per pane, so I'm pretty careful about salvaging the glass where I can.  Only 6 more to go :-)

12. 
    forestgirl | May 01, 2007 06:14pm | #16

    I suspect you'll find that many of the recommended routers are made in Taiwan (not China, there is a difference).  I'm a Porter Cable owner (690 and it's corresponding plunge model), but am not sure I'd recommend the current 890 series without alot of research.  There seem to be persistent things that PC doesn't get fixed in their designs -- sticky plunge action for instance.   Not saying "don't buy it" -- just cautioning to gather info from a variety of sources/forums to see if it's really the best for you.

    With a plunge router, how it feels in your hands is important.

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
    
1. 
   citrouille | May 01, 2007 06:25pm | #17

   What is the need of a plunge base and a fixed base ?
   There is nothing that a fixed base does better than a plunge base with a screw for fine adjustment.
   I have used a Makita plunge router professionally for about 20 years, changed the brushes twice, still going strong.
   I also have two Makita trim routers for one hand operations.C.PS - I thought the Triton was made in Australia

   Edited 5/1/2007 11:26 am ET by citrouille

1. 
   frenchy | May 01, 2007 07:19pm | #19

   citrouille,

    A fixed base is lighter and less bulky, maybe not a big deal untill you are hanging by the rafters finishing something that you missed..

1. 
   citrouille | May 01, 2007 07:28pm | #20

   Frenchy,
   I am just a regular furniture maker, I don't work for a circus, why would I be hanging by the rafters ?
   C.

1. 
   Midnight | May 02, 2007 12:30am | #24

   it's a fetish thang with Frenchy... we've tried talking to him but nothing works... just roll with it..

   ;)Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   frenchy | May 02, 2007 05:08pm | #29

   citrouille,

     I didn't suggest that you should hang from the rafters, that's for those like me who change their mind once something is built and need to use the router in awkward spots or angles.  Weight and bulk  does matter sometimes, if It didn't I'd grab my shaper for everything  ;-) 

3. 
   citrouille | May 02, 2007 07:06pm | #30

   Why didn't you say that earlier ?
   I tried this morning to do a particularly delicate routing operation hanging by the rafters and even though I was wearing a pretty elaborate harness it turned out a disaster !
   Maybe because the harness was pink !C.

4. 
   mike_b | May 02, 2007 07:35pm | #31

   <<Maybe because the harness was pink !>>Too much information.

13. 
    terrylee86 | May 01, 2007 07:01pm | #18

    Check out the article is the recent issue of Popular Woodworking.  They rate the Milwaukee the highest.  FWW rated the Triton the highest for router table use.  PW rated all the routers that have a two base kit format (one fixed,one plunge).  I have the Triton on a router table and it is kind of quirky, but does a good job. The Triton is made in Taiwan, but the company is in Australia.  I would stay away form Porter-Cable forever, my local tool dealer repair shop said they are coming back in droves because Dewalt is running the company into the ground.  Ever since Dewalt bought PC the internal components have been junk he said.  Poor windings, poor bearings, poor varnishing on the armatures.  He has been a PC dealer since they were Rockwell and he might drop the whole line.  He said he is going to stay with Bosch and Milwaukee.  I really like my Bosch 1617 but the Milwaukee is a great unit too.

    Terry

1. 
   user-231455 | May 04, 2007 11:41am | #33

   Terry: Am thinking about the Triton for use in a router table (also to be purchased). You mentioned that its a bit quirky. In what way? What type/brand of table do you have?

   Bruce

1. 
   terrylee86 | May 04, 2007 02:51pm | #34

   B,

   Quirky in a good way for safety.  I mounted the Triton(don't get the 3HP, no crank) on a Jessem Mast-r-Plate and it had the screw holes for the casting after I took off the plastic base.  You have to drill a hole in the plate for the crank, but that is not hard at all.  I then mounted it in a Jessem router table(love it) and installed a remote Rockler switch on one of the legs. This is where I started to pull my hair out.  The Triton switch has a plastic guard that you slide out of the way to turn it on.  I did not realize that you cannot engage the bit locking mechanism with the switch guard pushed in.  I am cussing this brand new router because it will not go all the up to take the bit out, then it dawned on me that it might be a safety feature.  I closed the guard and the router cranked right up and engaged the lock and I took the bit out just like it is suppose to.

   After using the new setup for about a month I really like the router and table setup.  I replaced a Bosch 1617 and a Rockler table setup so it wasn't chopped liver to begin with.  If I was going to dedicate a router to a table I would use this setup every time, if I was going to switch back and forth I would use the Bosch or the new Milwaukee.  I would hate to be in the router lift business right now.

   TerryCheck out Jessem at toolcorral.com type in Jessem in the search window and you'll see their whole line of products.  The table, plate, fence and legs is $525

   Edited 5/4/2007 8:03 am ET by terrylee86

   Edited 5/4/2007 8:26 am ET by terrylee86

1. 
   user-231455 | May 04, 2007 11:35pm | #35

   Terry: Thanks for the input. I plan to make it a dedicated set-up and it sounds like with the Jessem its a winner and I don't have to buy a separate lift. Glad you mentioned to stay with the 2 1/2 HP and as I recall

   Appreciate your feedback. Thanks.

   Bruce

2. 
   user-231455 | May 04, 2007 11:39pm | #36

   Terry: Oops I hit the wrong key before finishing my response. Wanted to mention that I thought the 2 1/2 comes with extra accessories but the 3 1/2 doesn't. Thanks again.

1. 
   BG | May 06, 2007 12:22am | #37

   B Lund,

   The 2.5 Triton does come with extras..but they are for handheld applications mostly, which is fine. The key is the 3.25 is only $5 bucks more with both a macro and micro adjustment for setting height...so its real easy and fast. I bought the 3.25 Triton because I already had the Dewalt 621 for hand held operations.  

2. 
   mepmalahon | May 06, 2007 12:36am | #38

   Triton? I don't trust them. Sources say they are part of a plan by Kim Jong Il to disseminate small concealed thermonuclear devices in America's workshops.

3. 
   BG | May 06, 2007 02:08am | #39

   mepmalahon,
   But, but ...the Aussies make them...I thought who better to make something that would hang upside down in the router table? Are you saying there's a Halliburton connection...

4. 
   user-231455 | May 06, 2007 05:45am | #40

   BG: Good point.  Thanks.

14. 
    Woodmaster1776 | May 01, 2007 09:24pm | #21

    Had a face to face with a Porter Cable Factory guy a couple of weeks ago, who personally uses the 890 series in his home shop--says that since the merger PC is lifting some technology from the DeWalt 618 plunge base and adapting it to solve the issues with the 890 plunge. Should be available in a month or so.

15. 
    Hastings | May 01, 2007 11:44pm | #22

    Doyland:

    I also have the Porter Cable and I plan on getting the plunge base for it. I got it as a "second" at the repair center. It has worked well for me.

    If I had it all to do over again, I would have paid more attention to dust collection. Now this is just a foible of mine, but I hate the way the router spews dust and chips everywhere. All my other tools have integrated dust collection. There is a manufacturer, German, I think, whose name escapes me for the moment, that has excellent integrated dust collection; however, I think they are way beyond your suggested price.

    If you plan on spending a lot of time with woodoworking consider a router that has integrated dust collection that can be connected to a shop vac. There is a member of knots whose dust collector consists of a weekly go round with a leaf blower! You may be in his camp, so don't worry about it. I am a little more fussy.

    Good luck!

    Hastings

1. 
   Midnight | May 02, 2007 12:34am | #26

   best dust extraction hood I've encountered to date is the collector built into the DW 621... had to stop and check that I was actually cutting something the first time I used it... so used to chips flying everywhere that being able to see exactly what's going on at the business end throughot the cut just felt... weird...

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

   Edited 5/1/2007 5:35 pm by Midnight

1. 
   doyland2000 | May 02, 2007 03:15am | #27

   Wow!
   Thanks to everyone for your input - I was a way for a couple of days after I posted so sorry I didn't get back sooner. Thanks to the guy who offered to sell me the DeWalt - I'm in Canada though so I think the shipping might be prohibitive. I've had a look around for a Porter Cable but there don't seem to be any retailers in my area stocking them but I'm off to Toronto next week so I should be able to find a better choice there.
   Thanks again for all the advice - I'm going to print off the thread and take it with me!James :)

2. 
   Hastings | May 02, 2007 06:14am | #28

   Hi Mike,Thanks, I will check it out. Haven't yet commited to the plunge base for my P-CHastings

16. 
    Midnight | May 02, 2007 12:31am | #25

    sounds to me that  you need to do some reading before you make up your mind...

    could do worse than start here...

    http://www.patwarner.com/

    Mike Wallace

    Stay safe....Have fun

17. 
    gj13 | May 03, 2007 07:43pm | #32

    I have a PC 690 fixed.  Can't vouche for the 690 plunge, but everything on the 690 fixed is a-o.k.