Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Dec 09, 2009 10:57pm | #1

   I've made mine for a number of years. (The only purchased router table I've ever had was a cheapo benchtop model.)

   My current version is an addition to my tablesaw fence, because my router table is one of the extension wings.

   The good thing about making your own, is that you know 100% of its capabilities and limitations, before you ever use it.

   Another goo aspect, is that you can add "accessories" by simply screwing them in place where you need them. If I had paid a couple of hundred for my fence, I would NEVER run a wood screw into it. Since I made it myself, with a replaceable face, I do it all the time.

   And when you use screws to attach a featherboard, it doesn't move. Ditto with any other jogs or fistures.

   Oh -- and that replaceable face means its quick work to make a zero-clearance fence for any router bit.

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

1. 
   pcott | Dec 09, 2009 11:40pm | #2

   I have the veritas fence, and really like it.

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Dec 09, 2009 11:55pm | #3

   I made my own from some left over scraps pf 3/4" 'cabinet grade' plywood. I just used a couple of biscits and glue (NO nails) to assemble the whole thing. It took about 10 minutes... 5 minutes to find the wood, 5 minutes to cut and assemble the whole thing. A couple of 90 degree brackets on the back assure it is square. The two 'middle brackets' are about 6 inches apart. I spanned them with a piece of 1/4" masonite and drilled a hole for my vac hose. Works like a charm, and if I muck it up, I just make another.

   Base piece 3 1/4" x 30" x 3/4", upright 4" x 30" x 3/4. (forms two sides of a 4" square) Why 30 inches long? That's because the scrap I had was 30" I'm too lazy to cut it shorter, plus the added length helps keep what I'm running through alligned to the fence. If I need a hold-down attached, a couple of screws work just fine.
   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

3. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 10, 2009 01:02am | #4

   It depends on how you use the fence, I think, and how precise and adjustable you want it to be. Making your own, after looking at various designs to choose the features you want, is always an advantage.

   I used a (well-jointed) 2x4 with a notch cut for the bit, and held in place with C-clamps, for years before deciding to get fancy.

4. 
   Routerman | Dec 10, 2009 01:27am | #5

   The designers have done well, within their budget/marketing framework.

   For average work there are many good choices.

   Adjustments are cumbersome for some but if not in a hurry, (and you can calibrate/measure), I think most models will get you close. Not much time to design, test, and fabricate? Then buy indeed.

   You have time, materials and like to explore? Then I would make one.

   Gets me to .001".

5. 
   docotter | Dec 10, 2009 06:48am | #6

   I have the Bench Dog cast iron router table wing for table saw, which came with their fence. It has a T-rail on top for attaching guards, fingerboards, and accessories. There's a dust collection port in the middle of the back, and the faces are easily replaceable wood, so you can use it as a zero clearance fence. They sell a standalone version of the fence too.

6. 
   Taigert | Dec 10, 2009 07:37pm | #7

   Prior to buying a fence, I've been using two different setups. One is a small portable table/fence, the table cantilevers off any surface you are able to clamp to such as workbench. I have a dedicated PC base screwed to the table and a couple of boards that I just attach with a clamp. My other table is a benchtop with two short columns with 3 draws in each column, the table is 18 x 36 which is permanently attached. My fence is wood and is fully adjustable using  Tee tracks.

   But for the sake of convenience my last fence I bought as part of a system. I think Jessem make a great product and overall I am very happy with it. For me, the only thing it lacks is power switch where have a on/off switch and the ability to adjust the speed.

    

   
7. 
   bones | Dec 10, 2009 08:17pm | #8

   Nothing says you can't make one. I mean if you get down to it if it's strait it will get the job done.  I decided to go with a incra ls120 fence.  Whle I made my router table from Norm's plans, I decided to go with the Incra It had features that I felt were worth paying for.  It is a very well made and provides micro adustability and and provide for easy repeatability which has come in handy on numerous ocasions when having to cut multiple parts.  I think it's a personal decision.  I know the routerworkshop guys use a very rudamentry fence and do great things.  For me the features were worth the price.   To me the whole set up is a combination of three things the lift, the fence, and the router doing the work. For me its the woodpecker PRL, the Incra LS120, and the Portercable 7518.

    

    

   ...Advice is a form of nostalgia.  Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off , painting over the ugly parts, and recycling it for more than it’s worth –  lyrics from the song wear sunscreen

   
1. 
   mikeddd | Dec 10, 2009 08:38pm | #9

   Bones:

    I love the glass door, that looks like a great router table.

   Mike

1. 
   bones | Dec 10, 2009 10:25pm | #10

   Thanks. It was a blast to build and I'd love to lay claim to the door but the wife did the glass panel (I did frame it :)) from plans someone here was gracious enough to share the plans for.  ...Advice is a form of nostalgia.  Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off , painting over the ugly parts, and recycling it for more than it’s worth –  lyrics from the song wear sunscreen

2. 
   RalphBarker | Dec 11, 2009 03:12am | #11

   Kudos to the wife on the glass door, and you for properly framing it, Bones. Looks great.