Replies

1. 
   ring | Mar 05, 2007 08:39pm | #1

   Is there some reason that the guide isn't flush with the work? I'm just guessing here, but if for instance you're routing across a wide panel and in the middle it sags away from the straightedge guide, you need to completely support the panel from underneath. Find a way to keep the guide and work in proper relation throughout the cut.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   jeanlou | Mar 06, 2007 06:22pm | #4

   Exactly David.

   This why chainfall is having the problem. If he doen't correctly support his work, it will never be true.  JL

2. 
   Routerman | Mar 06, 2007 01:45am | #2

   Many ways to steer a router; the subbase being the worst. The chip is always under the plate (fouling the footway), the diameter is rarely centered to the cutter, & surface tearout will pick the router up and screw up its pathway as you zip down the work.

   Notwithstanding, Rockler, and others, sell replacement subbases that may be bigger than your OEM plate if you must go that rout, (1 painful pun, no?)

   Better to work off a templet, above the fray, with collar or trim cutter, easier to locate the templet too. You know that the center of the cutter is steering on a line 1/2 the diameter of the collar ring away from the edge of the templet.

   Routers

1. 
   Chainfall83 | Mar 06, 2007 05:44pm | #3

   Routerman

     Thank you for the reply.  How would you suggest cutting dadoes with a router?

1. 
   Routerman | Mar 06, 2007 08:56pm | #5

   With some sort of benchhook/right angle templet. Collar and straight bit of choice. 2 templets, separated x some calculated distance, can be used to hit the dado width with a cutter whose diameter is < the dado. A plunge router would be cool if the cut is so deep it has to be taken in stages.

   See pix and such at the RAT link.