All,
Are there any rules or guidelines for what size router bit should be used relative to rounding over? It makes sense to use 1/4″ on small objects but I’m not sure when to graduate in size. Making the issue a bit more complex, I’m always quite satisfied regardless of the size I use….but I don’t know if it’s appropriate for the stock size. Thanks
Replies
I think it's a matter of asthetics as much as anything, sometimes I'll use an 1/8" just to break the edge and other times 1/4 or 5/16ths for appearance. I think if you are happy with the results then you are doing it right.
dgreen,
My problem is I'm artsy-fartsy challenged....wouldn't do the crayons in Kindergarten...played with the blocks instead, forts needed to be built, ships needed to be launched.
Generally I'll use the smaller(1/4") just cause you can't back up or if there are other curves in the piece, I'll think about matching those with the roundover. But, I can figure if a larger roundover would look better.
If there are no rules per se that's okay too..
"My problem is I'm artsy-fartsy challenged....wouldn't do the crayons in Kindergarten..." Ahhhhhhh, a kindred soul, ROFL!!!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
No, there are not any rules. What you might want to ask yourself is: are you simply wanting to round the edge? If yes, then that's what you will probably do.... whatever the radius. But if you're looking to transition from one plane to another then you will more likely choose an appropriate method to accomplish that. You might also want to reconsider attitudes about artsy-fartsyness. I would venture to guess that your fort building, block manipulation and launches prepared you for making design decisions as much as coloring would. Additionally, I would venture to say that you are not really interested in making art but you would like to make good design. They are related but two distinct diciplines. Art is a means to ask questions..... Design is a means to provide answers.Sorry if this sounds like a lecture. It isn't meant to be.
Sapwood,
Don't know if it's a lecture but the distinction sure sounds fascinating. thanks
Don't worry about it. Unless I'm making tops or something that has a design element that requires a routered edge I usually just knock the edges off (also know in artsy-fartsy circles as 'softening the edge) with 120 grit and then 220 grit to knock off the 120 scratches, same for corners on boxes as an example.JohnPS: The radius of the router bit, should you decide to accept this assignment, is relative to the size of the project.
Edited 7/25/2006 5:20 pm ET by pins
".. I usually just knock the edges off..." is a design choice. We all make hundreds every day. Most are routine, but nevertheless, they are choices.
Hi BG,
If I recall correctly, the formula you're looking for is:the square of your shoe size, divided by your waste measurement, multiplied by your inseam, except on odd Thurdsays, in which case you are admonished to turn clockwise three times and throw salt over your left shoulder - unless there's a full moon ; - )
All seriousness aside, unless you're slavishly copying an existing design, it's your choice. I will often mock up several profiles on scrap to see if they look good with the other elements of a given design.
Whatever you decided to do, it's usually a good idea to gently ease over the arris to facilitate finishing (finish likes to pull away from sharp corners).
Good luck - and don't forget to enjoy the process!
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
> gently ease over the arris <
Is that a bit like getting up slowly to avoid putting the back out?
"Is that a bit like getting up slowly to avoid putting the back out?"
Hi Malcolm,
For some unknown reason the picture that came to my warped mind as I read your reply was of a certain middle-aged woodworker (who shall remain nameless) attempting to stand up after spending far too long reading the latest issue of Fine Woodworking in "the reading room" - you know the one - it has, among other conveniences, a bathtub and sink <g>.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
> "the reading room" <
In our house they're known as the library (and the branch library, downstairs) because people take books and magazines in there, but don't bring them out!
Malcolm
I have a magazine stand in my library that can comfortably hold about six magazines, it probably has 20 in it. I don't know what I'll do if I ever have to get the lid off the tank in a hurry, there is probably another 20 there.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Jazzdogg,
It just seems so curious to me. I was watching the Schwartz(sp?)snipets from Popular Woodworking on The Woodworking Channel. He goes into great detail on how to cut a board properly or using cut nails to toenail in a shelf...fascinating stuff...the tools and the technique. For years I've seem Norm pick up a roundover bit, different sizes, as part of the process without any explanation or context.
It would seem that in this woodworking discipline where such pains have been taken to align design with functionality and tool design with body alignment and the forces of nature more thought would have been given to this subject of roundover. It doesn't bother me if there is no body of knowledge, hell, I'm greatful for one less thing to learn. However, I'm still confused about building a magazine rack for the bathroom; should you roundover or do something with your arse...(He,he)
FWIW I use a 1/8" radius Roundover bit in a PC mini-router/laminate trimmer just to break hard edges. Design wise I tend to avoid large roundovers that remind me of the overworked red oak "California Roundover" stuff that looks like melted butter edges from the 70's. Interestingly (to me anyway) my current project is a case piece ala Maloof's bullnose casework with the deeply recessed drawer and doors. His original design was imitated and morphed ( or devolved) into the California Roundover.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
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