I am looking for the “correct” plane to smooth out the proud ends of dovetails on a box. I could sand, but wish to learn how to use a hand plane. Obviously, I will be cutting end grain as well as smooth surface of the box side. I am willing to invest in a good plane. Your suggestions will be appreciated.
lostcreek
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Replies
Some like block planes, and God bless them. I like a well sharpened #4. It is easy to hold and has the heft to do the job with ease.
Whatever plane you choose, BE SURE to support the end grain when you plane outward against it. Clamp a sacrificial board on the outside. If you don't do this, whole chunks of your work will break away. I can tell you, that is a very discouraging thing.
Joe
lost,
recently, i posted a similar question. many good answers in that thread. it's 44964.1
best of luck,
eef
Hey eef,I just remembered one that had slipped my mind. One of those "it is too simple to work" kind of things.I believe it was Krenov or Charlesworth that said he wraps the end of a file or two with masking tape, just enough to space that end up and prevent scratching the side of the work, and then he just files the pins down flush.You know how a file with finer teeth leaves an almost burnished surface. Can't say I have used it but I was keeping it in the back of my mind when worrying about the work bench I made. Turns out the wet thing did the trick and I never used the file.Would have posted to lostcreek but he may need a good excuse to buy another nice plane so don't want the file to get in the way of that.
roc
For every person trimming pins, you'll find variations of centuries old methods. I have absolutely no issue with planes and the planes range from my LN 102 to my LN BU jack. The key to whatever tool used is sharpness and not complicating the matter by thinking (and reading?????) too much.
T.Z.
I assure you reading Krenov's classics do not come under the heading of reading too much. Though this chat room could.Charlesworth wouldn't hurt you any either. Most of my reading is done during my lunch break at work. If I could do my wood working and eat lunch I might but alas I make my living as a mechanic so that is impossible.Don't be afraid to expose yourself to new ideas.roc
Thanks to all. I ran a practice piece with the DNA and my old Stanley #5 and it worked pretty well. I'm satisfied I can do it, and now just need more practice to perfect it. Also, as someone mentioned, I need a good excuse for a new plane...
lostcreek
Boy, I re-read my reply to you and I certainly didn't mean it to sound as it appeared in writing. So 'enuf said before I put my foot in my mouth again.
T.Z.
Tony Z,Maybe I was a bit touchy. It is a weird time communication wise. You can take the following with a grain of salt but " the planets " are in a bad place for clear communication. They call it Mercury in retrograde. My partner keeps me informed of this stuff. Here is an excerpt I copied off the web:>In general, Mercury rules thinking and perception, processing and disseminating information and all means of communication, commerce, education and transportation. By extension, Mercury rules people who work in these areas, especially people who work with their minds or their wits: writers and orators, commentators and critics, gossips and spin doctors, teachers, travellers, tricksters and thieves.Mercury retrograde gives rise to personal misunderstandings; flawed, disrupted, or delayed communications, negotiations and trade; glitches and breakdowns with phones, computers, cars, buses, and trains. And all of these problems usually arise because some crucial piece of information, or component, has gone astray or awry.It is therefore not wise to make important decisions while Mercury is retrograde, since it is very likely that these decisions will be clouded by misinformation, poor communication and careless thinking.<I have seen it happen too many times to totally disregard it. Whether it has to do with the planets or magnetic fields around the earth or the price of corn this time of year I don't know. I don't buy it entirely but interesting to sit back and observe.Thanks for your last post to straighten it out,
roc
I would bet my life that it was Krenov and not Charlesworth who would use a file like that. The sheer treachery of the man. The philistine... abusing fine machinist tools,treating wood like metal .... (;)
Seriously-what is the flap about planing them outwards and breaking out? Obviously if it is done with a huge cut, with no regard for what is most likely to happen, there will be grief. So it is not done, it is far better to go inwards, or across from edge to edge.
If the long grain is such that one has to plane in "the dangerous direction" then a fine setting and a circular scrubbing-like motion will do it without any break out. Another reason for using a big heavy plane .Philip Marcou
roc,
yeah, a file. kind of boring, no? after all that fettling, a file? really? a file?
sheesh,
eef
I looked up the file thing. It was James Krenov's book The Fine Art Of Cabinetmaking p 161. He says to file " brittle " wood. It almost seems he is saying the pin ends are brittle no mater what type of wood but not sure if that is the point.He then takes a light pass with a plane on the drawer side so eef you are safe ! You still need your planes.
Edited 1/26/2009 11:16 pm by roc
whew.
Lostcreek
The plane I use depends on the size of the drawer. For larger drawers, I use my LV Bevel Up Smoother. For smaller drawers, I use my LN block planes. Whichever plane you use, be sure and plane from both ends towards the middle and lift the plane in the middle to prevent blow out on the ends of the drawer. Make sure the plane blade is very sharp and tuned for a light cut. What's really cool is to see a shaving with the drawer sides and pins in the same shaving. Tom
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