I’m making some small hanging wall cabinets out of white pine. I was going to put a washcoat of shellac, followed by Zar wood stain ‘Provincial’, and a coat of poly. Has anyone had good luck with other combinations for a rich finish on white pine? gel stain? oil?
Thanks
Replies
The latest issue of FWW has an article about creating a very nice finish on pine. The cabinet in the article is just a few feet away from my desk and it is stunning.
JohnWhite, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
I don't have the latest issue yet, but It certainly does sound like it is exactly the information I need. How timely! Thank you very much!
John,
Do you mean the _next_ issue (not yet released)? I keep looking for this in the issue with the joint test on the cover, and I can't find it.
-Andy
The pine finishing article is in the issue after the issue with the joint test article on the cover. It was just printed it may not be widely distributed yet.
John W.
JohnSpeaking of the current issue, why wasn't the Steel City 14" Bandsaw included in the test? Just curious. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
I have the article about finishing pine and I am ready to try it on a wall cabinet I just completed. However, I have been told by Olympic that the stains mentioned in the article are no longer sold east of the MIssissippi.....unless you buy a case. Could you recommend another manufacturer that would closely approximate Olympic?Thanks,
Ann
Perhaps you mail order some from a place West of the Mississippi?
I wonder what's going on with Olympic? I just picked up several gallons of their oil based stain that the local hardware store were dumping in favor of Cabot.
Stained the deck and it looks great. Just $5/gal.! The deck looks better than t ever has.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Olympic may not sell directly to the public in less than case quantities, but most paint and hardware stores can get single can quantities from their warehouses, usually within a few days. Most hardware chains have far more available than what they stock on their shelves, but you have to ask.With only minor differences you can use any oil based stain, Minwax makes all three colors that are mentioned in the article.John White
Also, there's an article on Pumpkin Pine in the latest WoodWorking:
http://www.fwmagazines.com/product/340/38
Don't mess with stains on pine. I have done it and it can be done but it is hardly worth the trouble.
Here are some doors for a pine cabinet I made that are finished with garnet shellac and alkyd resin varnish. No stain, no dye, no seal coat, and the wood is right out of the home depot pine bin.
Rob,
Nice stuff.
Another filer!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I don't know what it says in Fine Woodworking but I have had good success using shellac, water based stain and oil stain.
I first sand then put on a 2# cut of shellac, usually blonde. Then I use a water based dye on top like Lockwoods Antique Cherry #911 or Medium Amber Maple #143. I then seal this with another coat of 2# shellac.
At this point you can sand with 400 grit paper and finish off with shellac, poly, varnish or whatever finish you like.
If you want to take it a little further, then sand with 320 grit paper and wipe on some oil stain like Minwax Dark Walnut. Let this dry overnight then top coat with shellac and finish out as you please.
I mostly use the shellac and dye approach then finish off with garnet shellac to give a nice richness. If added protection is needed I will wipe on a couple of thin coats of varnish.
If you are using yellow pine, the Dark Walnut oil stain helps to kill some of the yellow in the pine and make it a little more brown . Possibly because the Walnut stain has a somewhat green base to it.
Anyway, just some thoughts on how I have dealt with pine in the past.
Good luck and have fun experimenting.
J.P.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled