We have a rolltop desk that has a damaged piece of trim that we are interested in in replacing. We have made the piece of replacement trim but am unsure about how to cut the vertical grooves in the top of the trim. Does any one have any suggestions as to how to cut that detail? I am attaching a picture of the trim.
Thanks as always
Cheers,
Velo
Replies
Velo,
I'd try a scratch stock.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
(soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
What is "a scratch stock"?Doug
The Wood Loon
Acton, MA
"What is "a scratch stock"?"
Here's mine.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
Bob,
Just curious, what do you use for blades?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hello Bob,
I used an old scraper blade. I heated it with a torch and cooled it very slowly. This softened it so that i could cut, file and hone it. After I shaped the steel, I heated it once again and quenched it to harden it. I then heated it once again until it was a light straw color to kind of temper it. I wasn't very scientific about the whole process, but it seemed to work.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
Thanks for those pictures, I have a bit of 100 year old molding to recreate. Now I know how :)
Hello Ray , basiclly its also called a beading tool ,Lee valley sells them in sets. I used to do a lot of restoation of 1800s furniture and would and, still do make my profiles by cuting up old hand saws I would fined at garage sales and what not.I maake custom shaped card scrapers the same way. just thought that might help?
Dan thewoodbug
Hi Dan,
I have the LN beading tool, but it isn't big enough to reproduce the baseboards I need. It worked fine on the door casings. I've been debating modifying one of those ancient, scary 3-wing Craftsman molding cutters but when I saw your tool, I realized that "by hand" was the way I should go on this project.
Thanks again for the pics.
Ray thanx ,But that is a pic of salamfam's tool ,and in my experiance by hand is the only way to reproduse some thing old.
Dan thewoodbug
Edited 3/24/2009 3:19 pm ET by woodguydan
Edited 3/24/2009 3:20 pm ET by woodguydan
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You gat that right, rather do it by hand.
very nice, I like the body shape,looks to be well balanced.
Dan thewoodbug
Doug,In it's most basic form, a scratch stock has a cutter which scrapes the wood. It's profile is generally sharpened square to the face. The cutter is clamped in a beam, usually with screws. A fence runs along the beam to keep the cutter a fixed distance from the edge of the work. So it is more or less like a pin-style marking gauge.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Its difficult to tell from the picture, but it looks like those lines have been "scratched" into endgrain. If that is truly the case, I might try scratching it, but I think it might be difficult to avoid blowouts.
And so I might be just as likely (if its endgrain) to try a light cut with a dozuki or similar saw.
I see double beads instead of just groves either made by a molding machine or molding plane, should be easy to replicate with the use of a shop made scratch stock. Do you have access to a #45 or #55 combo plane? If so they may have the beading blade that matches.
see Dusty's reply, post #5 in this thread -- he directed it to me by mistake.......Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
Sorry,
I’m not as good at multi-tasking as I once was.
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DustyMc<!----><!---->
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Aint no thang......Fergivun fer shurPolitics is the antithesis of problem solving.
Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help!Cheers,
Velo
velo,
those are decorative "grooves". were i needing to create that detail, i would do so using my tablesaw and its fence. six passes on the saw, move the fence accordingly. afterwards the edges of each groove would need to be eased by sanding.
eef
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