Replacing V-Belts vs. Link Belts?
Hi All,
I’m replacing the 3 ph motor in my PM66 with a shiny brand-new Baldor 3 hp and 1 ph switch. I want to replace the three belts as long as I’m doing all of this.
Any advice about using link-belts vs. the traditional v-belts?
Has anyone done this replacement? Any advice?
Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays!!
Larry Pile
Replies
Larry,
I looked into the V-Link belts for my Unisaw and learned that they are only for single-belt installations (contractor saw, drill press. etc.) and will NOT work on multi-belt machines. What you need is a matched belt set from the manufacturer - a real pain in the pocketbook but the only way to go.
Wayne
I bought a link belt for my contractor saw, and in the literature that was with it where pictures of other applications. There was quite a few pictures of industrial machinery with litterally dozens of belts on one arbour. I would call the manufacturer of the link belt and ask them. I bought mine at Lee Valley. Hope this helps.
Peter,
Interesting! I think it was Rockler that looked it up and gave me that answer. I'll follow up with Lee Valley. Though I have been spending a bit too much time there lately <G>.
Wayne
Your comment about the link belts not working on muti-belt applications comes as a shock to me! Where did you hear this?
I bought link for my jointer and the literature I got with the belt also showed applications with multi-belts.
Did your source say why the link belt won't work?
Curious,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Mack,
It was a clerk at either Woodcraft or Rockler a year or two ago. I wanted to buy a set, they looked it up and said not recommended. Based on the real world postings here vs. some clerk's comment I will have to go with the Knotsters. I love this forum!
I am unhappy with the vibration on all my machines. They are on a wood floor so I expect some vibration, but still... I'm going to check out the link belts for my Unisaw, jointer and drill press.
Wayne
Waste of time and money. Link belts are for motors that are hung without constant tension and are a prevention of the memory bounce factor. Get cog belts if you want something better. Don't worry about getting matched belts either. One belt is plenty on that saw. They only use two belts now. If you look at the large panel saws with 9 hp motors, they only have one belt. I'd use the belts you have now.
My '85 PM66 has the 3 belt drive. They are 4L220 belts. Use a high quality " Raw Edge " belt not a ' Wraped Edge " belt. Link belts are not perfect for every application. They ride high on the scheve and require a bit more tension.
While it's apart, drop in a new set of 204 sealed abec3 arbor bearings. What are you going to do with the other motor and control?
Dave Koury
Powermatic uses 3VX raw edge belts on the 66. PowerTwist does not make a replacement link belt with this profile. A person said that he uses 4L220 raw edge belts on his saw. This is not correct as a raw edge belt would be a 3VX220.
I have three 4L link belts on my Unisaw and it has never cut better. It cuts smoother and the saw is quieter with less vibration. The first thing I did to my new Grizzly G0543 jointer was to replace the two 3L belts with link belts. It just sounds smoother and is vibration free.
Link belts work fine when multiple belts are required. The have a joint every 3/4" that will stretch somewhat. They need to be installed very tight and then checked after an hour of operation for stretch. This stretching explains why they work so well when multiple belts are required.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Edited 12/21/2004 3:12 pm ET by Jerry P
"I'm replacing the 3 ph motor in my PM66 with a shiny brand-new Baldor 3 hp and 1 ph switch. I want to replace the three belts as long as I'm doing all of this."He has a 3 belt drive. That is what Powermatic used before going to the 3VX size belts they currently use. The 4L220 is the correct belt for a PM66 that has the 3 belt setup.Dave Koury
"My '85 PM66 has the 3 belt drive. They are 4L220 belts. Use a high quality " Raw Edge " belt not a ' Wraped Edge " belt. Link belts are not perfect for every application. They ride high on the scheve and require a bit more tension."
Sorry DJK, I mis-read your post. I thought you said 4L220 belts were raw edge.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
I did. 4L belts are made as raw or wraped edge. Raw edge can transmit a bit more power due to the higher coeffecient of friction. An " X ' section belt is better on small dia. sheves but they generate more noise.Years ago I tried link belts on a Unisaw and found they ride high in the groove and need tooo much tension. The main cause of arbor bearing failure is tite belt tension. The belts are so short and deflect so little that most people over tension them.Dave Koury
FWIW, I run my Unisaw belts even looser than the manual recommends, and they've never slipped enough for me to notice. Running so loose, belt induced vibration, even with the cheap OEM belts, has never been noticeable. It's also much cheaper than link belts.Be seeing you...
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