Replies

1. 
   TKanzler | May 07, 2002 11:28pm | #1

   Alfred

   What is the motor frame size you have now (probably NEMA 56 - look on the motor name plate).  And, if possible, what is the minimum distance from the shaft shoulder (i.e. the point of usable shaft closest to the motor frame) to the cabinet obstruction at the opposite end of the motor, where the too-long motor fouled with the stand.  You'll have to measure this with the motor in place and the mounting holes lined up.

   While NEMA 182T frame motors are by far the most common for a 2 hp motor, NEMA 56 frame motors are available from Dayton, Baldor, GE, Marathon, et al.  and will have the same shaft height, shaft size, mounting hole locations, etc.  Unfortunately, frame size has nothing to do with length beyond the bolt holes opposite the shaft.  Since space is a problem, you'll probably be stuck with an open frame motor (not ideal for woodworking, but they're shorter than TEFC usually, all other things being equal, and it's also probably what Delta provided with the saw).  If you can provide the requested dimension, it will be a relatively easy task to check the fit before you buy.

   And while I'm on a roll, I'd advise against automatic-reset thermal protection; get either manual reset or none.  If it trips out on overtemperature, it will start back up unexpectedly when it cools if you forget to shut off the power. 

1. 
   alfie | May 08, 2002 01:46am | #2

   The original motor is a Marathon, frame 56-65 (according to Marathon the 65 is an internal designation for the sheet metal of something). It is a flexible frame. capacitor start, and TEFC.

   The distance you asked about is 9", with perhaps a tiny additional amount of space. I'm OK with no thermal protection like the original. or the manual you suggested.

   Thanks for your help.

1. 
   bill_1010 | May 08, 2002 02:33am | #3

   if you replace your start swtich with a magnetic switch, youll outwit the motor if it shuts down via overload or a breaker trips.

2. 
   TKanzler | May 08, 2002 07:59pm | #6

   Alfred

   I'm afraid I've failed miserably in the quest for a 2 hp to fit in that (small) space.  I've tried Leeson, GE, Marathon, Baldor, Dayton (really cheap, but I don't have dimensioned prints of that line) and the nearest I've been able to find to what you want is a Baldor L1319, 1.5 hp with a 1.15 service factor (=1.72 hp - ok for non-continuous work like bandsawing), 1725 rpm, foot mounted, NEMA 56/56H open frame (your existing sheave will fit the 5/8 keyed shaft).  Length is about 9.9 inches, shaft shoulder to end.  You may be able to squeeze some more space by slotting the mounting holes in your base, moving the motor sheave as far towards the motor as possible (make sure the hub faces out), and moving the arbor sheave away from the bottom wheel a bit.  A little sheet metal trimming may be in order to clear the belt.  You may even be able to move the saw back a little on it's base.  Just try to leave a little space on the end for cooling air.

   If you want the 2 hp, you may have to remove the front panel of the base, or modify it to allow a longer motor, or trade bases with someone who has a standard base with the side mounted motor; then you can get any horsepower motor you want in a TEFC with resilient mount (better for a bandsaw, IMO), although you'll also have to get a new drive sheave with a larger bore.  Perhaps someone else has successfully done this mod and can speak first hand.

   If you have CAD, you can download a dimensioned drawing directly from Baldor, either in AutoCAD format or DXF.  If not, email your address and I'll send the print I have via Snail Mail, if you like.

   Edited 5/8/2002 1:03:22 PM ET by TDKPE

1. 
   alfie | May 08, 2002 08:40pm | #7

   Thank you so very much for all your input. It is great information that I have to digest. I am also going to re-examine an option I had previously rejected - modifying the side panel which is in the way of a longer motor. Certainly it is do-able, with plywood or even no-panel for starters, eventually could do it in sheet metal. In that case, the Marathon G575 which is 2.5" too long would do the trick. It has one thing going for it - it is here. I have to confirm if it will mount, which I did not do so far because it was obviously too long. In the last couple of days I am learning more about motors than I ever thought I would. It is kind of fun, even if frustrating so far.

   Attaching a couple of photos to illustrate the situation.

   
1. 
   TKanzler | May 08, 2002 09:35pm | #8

   It looks from the pictures that there is a good bit of room at the end of the arbor shaft to move the driven sheave, plus room to move the saw back on its stand a little.  You might also want to think about making a wooden spacer for the front panel to make up what's needed after the mechanical adjustments.  An inch or so thick, painted to match the base, wouldn't look too offensive and would allow the original panel to be reused.  If it works out well, you may also want to post what you did so others can benefit.  Good luck!

2. 
   alfie | May 08, 2002 11:31pm | #9

   Thanks to both of you who have replied. I think I'll go with a solution along the lines TDKPE suggested. By the way, can anyone tell if I could modify the mounting frame in the stand to accept a motor on a 182T frame? The mounting arrangement has a certain amount of modularity. That is, if I could get a motor with the desired specs on the 182T frame within the 10.4 dimension I am restricted to.

   Once this project is completed, I will post my solution here, and a photo for others.

   Edited 5/8/2002 4:40:38 PM ET by Alfred

   Edited 5/8/2002 4:41:51 PM ET by Alfred

2. 
   alfie | May 09, 2002 03:34pm | #11

   The 2 hp motor I have at hand that we've been discussing has a rigid base. You have mentioned your preference for a resilient base. What would be the downside of the rigid base motor I am thinking of installing?

   BTW, thanks for expanding my vocabulary. I had to look up what a sheave is, now I know.

1. 
   TKanzler | May 09, 2002 05:39pm | #12

   I wouldn't worry about it.  Resilient bases may help damp a little vibration from poor belts, cheap die-cast sheaves, even some motor vibration and the like, but I doubt you could even get one at 2 hp @ 1800 rpm (real, continuous shaft hp, not Sears instantaneous peak developed locked-rotor VA/746 fantasy hp).  If you want to spend some money, do as many others have said many times; use machined cast iron sheaves and a good link belt, especially for lots of heavy sawing with a big motor. 

2. 
   alfie | May 09, 2002 05:46pm | #13

   Thanks. I am going to go forward with the 2 hp Marathon with rigid base. Someday will replace the die-cast sheave that came with my band saw, but my guess is for my frequency and volume (or lack thereof) of use, what is at hand should be OK. But then, when did something being OK stop any wood worker from pursuing a more robust solution for the fun of it!

3. 
   alfie | May 12, 2002 04:14am | #14

   Installing the motor was straightforward. I have been contemplating how best to modify the side panel to accommodate the motor. As I studied how the bandsaw is installed on the cabinet base, TDKPE’s suggestion to move the bandsaw over, began to come together in my head. The band saw is about 1 ¾ inch off center on the cabinet. I took the four bolts off and moved it over that much to see what would happen. It looks like everything would work, and I would have about half an inch clearance beyond the belt in the hole through which the belt runs, so no removal of sheet metal would be necessary. All that is needed is four new elongated holes for the bolts that fasten the bandsaw to the cabinet base, and two holes for the belt guard.

   I am just wondering if I am missing something. Also, I’d welcome suggestions on how to drill elongated holes in 0.125 inch thick sheet metal.

2. 
   alfie | May 08, 2002 07:27pm | #4

   The correct dimension, based on Marathon's spec drawings, is 10.4, rather than the 9 inches I provided earlier. I think I was conservative in measuring and did not take into account the mounting of the resilient base. Basically, the out-to-out is 12.3, less 1.88 for the shaft.

2. 
   bsutton12 | May 08, 2002 07:51pm | #5

   I recently went through this same process.  I added the riser block to my open stand Delta.  I bought a Marathon 1-1/2 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56, 1800 RPM.  Mechanically it was a perfect fit with the original pulley, belt guard, mounting holes, etc.  Length was not an issue with the open base.  Unfortunately the terminal box is on the side facing the saw which required that I modify the lower door so that I could open it sufficiently to change blades.  The 1-1/2 HP seems more than adequate power although I haven't yet tried to resaw thick stock.

   I rationalized that with 6 in. depth of cut my original 1/2 HP motor was marginally adequate (I could resaw 6 in. but the motor would occationally bog down) and that at 12 in. depth 1 HP would also be marginal.  1-1/2 HP seems to have been a good choice.

3. 
   PlaneWood | May 08, 2002 11:52pm | #10

   I increased the HP on my old BS and got a slightly smaller pulley for the saw.  I couldn't believe the difference it made.  6" resawing with a timberwolf blade is now a breeze.  The smaller pulley increased the blade speed by about 25%.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood