Replies

1. 
   desertmaster | Mar 10, 2009 06:21am | #1

        If the replacement hinge screws snug up tightly in the old holes, I don't see any use in plugging and redrilling the existing holes.  If they don't tighten up properly without stripping the old holes, you can snug the old holes up by placing in the hole a  bit of flat toothpick dipped in glue before placing  the screw.       Gary

1. 
   Nick11 | Mar 10, 2009 03:31pm | #2

   Thanks Gary,

   Follow up question:  How do I manage attaching the new doors - how do I align or hold the doors so I can drill new holes in the doors?

   Thanks,

1. 
   oldusty | Mar 10, 2009 04:53pm | #3

   In this case if the new doors will be the same ht as the old ones you could mount the hinges on the cabinet and hold the door up to the hinges to get a pencil mark or two where the hinges are located .

       Take them down and screw on the hinges and simply re screw to the cabinet unless you can clearly see that the hinges were probably pre set a fixed distance from the end of each door .

               regards     dusty

2. 
   Dave45 | Mar 11, 2009 07:20am | #4

   If your new hinges have the same hole pattern as the old ones, they should just screw into the exisitng screw holes.If I'm drilling new holes in the face frame or carcass, I use two drills - one with a Vix bit and the other with whatever bit is needed for the hinge screws. I clamp a piece of 1 x 2 at the desired height of the lower door edge, open the top hinge, and hold it in place while I pre-drill with the Vix bit, then run in the hinge screw.Once the first screw is in, the rest are pretty easy.

1. 
   Nick11 | Mar 11, 2009 03:39pm | #5

   The new hinges will have the same hole pattern where they attach to the cabinet face frame. The doors are new there is no existing hole pattern on the door to use as a reference. The hinges are inlay so if I attach the hinges to the face frame and position the door in place temporarily then I can't see holes where the hinges attach to the door.I'd like to reuse the holes in the face frame because if I don't then the plugged holes may be visible

1. 
   oldusty | Mar 11, 2009 04:51pm | #6

   When you say the hinges are inlay , do you mean flush inset ?

              Can you see the edge of the hinge to mark on the edge of the door when you put it where it belongs ?

       Do you still have the old doors ? if so transfer the location of the hinge holes.

                   dusty

2. 
   Dave45 | Mar 11, 2009 05:04pm | #7

   Ahhh, I had it backwards - as usual. - lolCould you mount one of the door hinges on the faceframe and figure it out with some careful measurements? The hole-to-hole distance on the faceframe will give you the hinge spacing, and the hole-to-faceframe distance plus amount of overlay should give you the location of one of the hinges on the door.Another way would be to mount both hinges on the faceframe, then use a straight piece of wood (1 x 2?) a little shorter than the faceframe opening to make a "story stick". Put one end of the stick on the faceframe, move it onto the hinges and use it to mark one screw hole in each hinge. Lay the stick on the door and move it whatever distance you need for the overlay, and the marks should show you the location of one screw. Hang your door with one screw in each hinge and - if it's where you want it - run in the rest of the screws. If it isn't, you can tweak the location of a second screw and try again. The first hole will need to be filled and redrilled, but it should be hidden behind the hinge leaf.

3. 
   mms | Mar 11, 2009 07:05pm | #8

   Another option:  if you still have the old doors, you could drill all the way through the old holes, then place the old doors over the new, and mark the hole locations thru the old door.

4. 
   Nick11 | Mar 11, 2009 10:43pm | #9

   The edge of the hinges on the door are not visible from the outside. I would have to stick my head inside the cabinet to see the hinge locations on the door. Kind of difficult with a the complete door but more manageable using a story stick and then attaching the door with only one screw. Sounds like a good strategy. Thanks