Replies

1. 
   BenM | Nov 29, 2008 07:10pm | #1

   If these were my marking gauges I would replace the pins with a japanese kebiki knife:

   http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15.261.06&dept_id=12996

   I have done this to one of my gauges and you may find the most difficult part is removing the original pin.

   I used to own a combination mortise/marking gauge, the kind that has 3 pins, one on one side and two on the opposite side.  After puncturing my finger once too often I decided to remove the single pin and make it a dedicated mortise gauge.  After I had tried everything to remove the pin I finally had to grind it off.

2. 
   [email protected] | Nov 30, 2008 01:24am | #2

   I don't know what steel the old pins on the gauges were made of.  It probably varied by price point. 

   For a new one, I'd probably look through the box of dull drill bits, find one the right diameter, and then grind it into a new pin. 

   If you don't have the old bits, you could price air hardening drill rod the correct diameter, and use it.  But it will probably be easier, and less expensive to buy some drill bits the right diameter, and grind them down. 

   The drill rod being unhardened will be easier to file into shape, and soft enough to cut to length with a pair of side cutters. 

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Nov 30, 2008 11:22pm | #3

   What is air hardening drill rod and where do you get it?

1. 
   [email protected] | Dec 01, 2008 01:07am | #4

   Any steel with an "A" designation, as in A-2, is air hardening.  The ones with an "O" designation is oil hardening and needs quenched in oil to harden correctly.  Which is a lot harder for those at home to pull off correctly. 

   You can get A-2 drill rod from just about any industrial supplier.  MSI, Graingers, McMaster Carr, etc.  look in the phone book under metals, or industrial supply, if you are in a large town.  In rural farm country the auto parts store or welding supply place will probably have it or be able to get it.  A 3-ft piece is a little over ten dollars. 

   A quick Google, shows that even Amazon has it. 

3. 
   roc | Dec 06, 2008 09:15am | #5

   Look to the old drafting tools:

   Spare steel points for a trammel compass or regular compass. This is the point the compass pivots on.

   http://northwaysmachinery.com/productdisplay.asp?cat=81

   For the drawing end if the compass they make chisel tips for scribing on metal through the blue dye. Sharpened as if you cut the end off at an angle.

   Hard to describe but go to an art supply store or drafting supply and look at replacement tips.
   roc

   PS: if you drill above the point in your marking gauge maybe you can mearly press it out a bit and keep using the old point.

1. 
   boilerbay | Dec 06, 2008 05:03pm | #6

   Thanks all.Roc,
   Good lead, can drill out one but other is backed by rails for cutting gauge.BB

1. 
   roc | Dec 07, 2008 07:41pm | #7

   >backed by rails for cutting gaugeI am feeling reckless today. Lets drill those too ! Just kidding.I had ment to mention cutting a slot up to the pin and then past it after removing; then you could "clamp" the new pin if necessary. Guess that won't help with the ones backed by the rail etc. Man you sure wore out your gauge. Maybe could remove rails and press in new pins using drill press then cut off.Krenov said he liked the pin better when it was filed down to about 1/64' ! Bet it didn't last too long from there but you may be in like Flinn having it that short and not realizing how great it is. Yah I don't think I would like it that short but have not tried it.Well the good news is you have an excuse to buy a new gauge ! Maybe you are not a tool turkey as I am. Like looking at 'em as much as using 'em.I like metric measure. I left suggestion for Veritas to provide a metric scale on their marking gauge and soon enough it is available.http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=452Who says we can't change the world ! : )
   ( probably had a few other requests besides mine )This one for mortising:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=5850Being the machinist type I like to dial in rather than whack and bump; though bumping is OK some times. : )roc

   Edited 12/7/2008 11:43 am by roc

4. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 11, 2008 05:23am | #8

   Check out the old fashioned steel phonograph needles.
   Or, grind down a #6 dry wall screw. First, cut off the screw's head with a Dremel thin cut off wheel. Next, leave the wheel in the Dremel and chuck up the screw shank in a reversible drill.

   With both the drill and Dremel running, each in opposite directions , (Dremel clockwise Drill anticlockwise)

   Run the rotating screw's shank across the flat of the rotating wheel to thin down it's diameter.

   Then, shape the point to your liking. Lastly, slice off the new tip to the correct length. Avoid over heating the work and occasionally cool with a damp rag .
   Steinmetz

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/10/2008 9:30 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   boilerbay | Dec 11, 2008 05:09pm | #9

   Thanks,
   It seems like an interesting process. The needle sounds more viable.
   BB

5. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 14, 2008 07:42am | #10

   Sorry for posting now.

   Older post but I thought of what I do. I have a box of what I call 'trim nails' or 'casting nails' ? Carpenters use them for mounting hardwood trim, I 'think'? Not sure. Much harder than common finish nails.. Grind away.. And you can get them in different gauges. I think the ones I have are stainless steel. Not sure.