Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 22, 2003 11:36am | #1

   Maybe.

   More people with relevant experience will see this if you post it at Breaktime. They will also want to know more details, like what material the pipe is, whether it's domestic hot water supply, radiant heat, or some other application, how long it's been there, how much it's leaking, how you localized the leak, etc. The more you can tell, the faster and better the response you will get.

2. 
   AJinNZ | Feb 22, 2003 01:42pm | #2

   I assume you have found the location of the leak. Regardless of the pipe material the only way to fix it of course is to make a hole in the concrete.

   If you have a good idea as to how far in the pipe is, use a power tool/concrete breaker to remove most of the material. You could then use a cold chisel or similar to bust up the rest of it.

   Even a sledge hammer will work. once you see pipe, go slower. make a hole big enough to make a repair, then reconcrete the hole.

   If the pipe is copper for example, it should be wrapped in someway to stop it rubbing on the concrete as it expands and contracts with the heat. given enough time this can rub a hole in the pipe.

    

   Wood Hoon

3. 
   BG | Feb 22, 2003 02:14pm | #3

   Kenneth,

   No.  One hole will lead to others.  You need to replace the whole pipe.  Chances are it is 1/2" or 3/4" L tubing if it is hot water under pressure. This is not very expensive and probably a lot less expensive to replace than try workarounds to save...

4. 
   eximreb | Feb 22, 2003 04:19pm | #4

   Kenneth

   A few years ago I had a hot water leak under my dinning room slab. I could feel the heat barefooted. I was sure that the leak would show up at the wall, so I got my laborers, large compressor & jack hammer. We laid back the carpet & went for it. when we got to the pipe the leak wasn't there. The leak had followed the pipe & surfaced in another place 4 feet away. I had a  friend who was dating a plummer. My friend called the plummer. I swear he was arrived before my friend hung up the phone. He asked me why I had not called a "Leak Finder Company". I had never heard of this service, so I looked in the yellow pages in a large metropolitin area where I live. Most of them garantee to pinpoint the leak or no charge. Had I known of that service, I would have not had to put two holes in the slab. Some times a leak will develop in a pipe, even when the rest of the pipe is good. You may not need to replace the whole line.

5. 
   Splintie | Feb 23, 2003 07:58pm | #5

   Kenneth, there's just not enough information here to help you, try as these gentlemen might. (Hi, guys!)

   A lot of us in this forum have construction experience, but without knowing the pipe material (if it's copper in concrete, you're in for more trouble) and whether it's under pressure (a domestic hot water pipe is an easier work-around that radiant floor heating). The fix will also depend on what you find: some of the rubber products used for RFH were subbed out to Goodyear a few years back. Google on "Entran" if you suspect this. This is a mfg. defect they should fix.

   "Breaktime" is still a better bet for posting this message. Put it in the "General Discussion" folder bec if you put it in one of the other speciallized folders, it won't get as much attention. Good luck.

   PS: If you know someone with a stethoscope, i've read these can be used to help locate the source of the leak. Never tried it myself.

6. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 24, 2003 12:17am | #6

   Can you subvert the issue by rerouting the line above the slab?

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   ka3180 | Feb 24, 2003 03:02am | #7

   thanks i tore the slab and i and replaced the line with a G Fitting. thank you Kenneth

1. 
   Splintie | Feb 24, 2003 04:05am | #8

   I'll bite: what's a "G" fitting? Genova? Gas?

1. 
   ka3180 | Feb 24, 2003 05:23am | #9

   I not sure I  put it  on a 1/2 " hot hot water copper pipe I was badly corroded and i could not get the water to stop. i went to Home depot and told them the problem. i picked up a copper sleeve and fittings i cut the pipe and cleaned. I then slid the fittings on and the sleeve after tightening the ends the water leak stopped then backfilled and recemented the hole thanks ken

1. 
   Splintie | Feb 25, 2003 08:00am | #10

   Sounds like a compression fitting. By code, these can't even be put behind sheetrock bec they can loosen with expansion/contraction cycles and leak. (I found one in a wall in my house after the wall paper fell off.) The problem with unsleeved copper in concrete is both chemical reaction and mechanical rubbing. Or...the fix could work just fine...

2. 
   Windwoodtrader | Feb 25, 2003 11:00pm | #11

   The main reason that copper ceased to a viable pipe to put into concrete is the corrosive effect of concrete on copper. Just about every copper piped radiant heat system ever put in concrete has eventually failed. I'm not sure exactly when this was discovered but I can remember bypassing radiant systems with fin-tube wall units 40 years ago.

   The main type of piping in radiant systems installed today is PEX plastic. This stuff is projected to be good for 50 years plus. Concrete won't bother it and the stuff is very flexible.

   If that leak is in a radiant heating system it is only a matter of time before another failure occurs. Possibly it only happened as a copper pipe passing through the slab which is a different story.

   Good luck!Windy Wood

   From the Helderberg Mountains

3. 
   BG | Feb 26, 2003 01:24am | #12

   Windy Wood,

   I am familiar with the copper piped heating system imbedded in concrete.  I've got a copper oil line that was placed against the corner of the wall and concrete was trolled over it to protect it.  Do you think that could corrode too?

4. 
   Windwoodtrader | Feb 26, 2003 08:10pm | #13

   It probably will affect the oil line eventually. That caustic action of the concrete won't care what's inside the line. I've seen fuel oil line installation folks thoroughly wrap the oil lines in electric tape before the concrete goes in.

   I'm not sure just what you can do to stop the erosion. Perhaps chipping out a little concrete from around the line and dribbling in some WD40 or some such might leach down the pipe to protect it somewhat.

   Good luck

   Windy Wood

   From the Helderberg Mountains

5. 
   BG | Feb 26, 2003 09:04pm | #14

   Thanks, The guy working on the furnace noticed the line and gave me an estimate to replace of about $440.  It's probably a 20' run of 1/4" M flexible tubing...and the concrete is only about an inch thick covering it.  I could easily rip it out this summer and drop/run the tubing in through some pipe for protection over the distance.