Replies

1. 
   cmiller231 | Jun 27, 2007 01:52am | #1

   A left handed drilll run slow might get it out.              C  hris

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 27, 2007 01:55am | #2

   Use an EASY OUT. Or,if that area is out of sight, use a Dremel tool with a medium H D grinding (Slotting) wheel.

   Position the rotating wheel centered over the insert and plunge through the wood deep enough to cut two edge slots suitable for a screwdriver.

   Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 6/26/2007 7:01 pm ET by Steinmetz

3. 
   USANigel | Jun 27, 2007 02:01am | #3

   Sure it not a "T" nut in from under the laminate? drill it out with a 5/16" bit with a stop collar. replace with a threaded insert.

4. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 27, 2007 02:30am | #4

   Most of the threaded inserts I have seen have a slot across the top, which you can use to either install or remove the insert with a large slotted screwdriver.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   citrouille | Jun 27, 2007 01:32pm | #5

   The ones I use have a recess for an Allen wrench that may have gone unnoticed by the original poster.
   C.

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jun 27, 2007 03:28pm | #6

   Nope, no Allen recess. I will have to take a closer look, though, T-nuts may be a possibility. Not a real good approach, given the construction, but it still may be.

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 27, 2007 04:24pm | #7

   If they are tee nuts they'll be made out of steel rather than brass or pot metal used in threaded in inserts so they'll be magnetic.  Also tee nuts are thin walled while the threaded inserts require a much larger hole relative to the bolt diameter.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

5. 
   dukeone | Jun 27, 2007 05:41pm | #8

   Hamer: What is the insert required to do? If it is not a heavy load on it you might leave it in place and epoxy a bolt, head first, or other such item into it. If it is a t-nut fill with epoxy to center the pilot and when set carefully use a hole saw to excavate the whole thing. A large dowel can then be glued in with a new fastener. Good luck,  Duke

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6. 
   PeteBradley | Jun 27, 2007 09:42pm | #9

   I've seen inserts with no slot or allen head. The driver threads into the insert and has a shoulder so it only goes in so far. Definitely a 1-way part.

   This is one of the few instances where an easy-out could be used without much risk of snapping it.

   Another "might work" approach would be to use a 1/4-32 bolt and nut. Spin the nut on all the way to the head of the bolt. Then screw the bolt into the insert (you're cross-threading it of course). Then spin the nut down flush with the insert and tighten it very snug. If it holds, you should be able to twist out the insert with the bolt. If it fails, back to the easy-out method.

   Pete

   
   

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   Edited 6/27/2007 2:46 pm ET by PeteBradley

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jun 27, 2007 10:32pm | #10

   Upon closer examination, I think they were probably T-nuts that were added prior to the laminate being added to the top (great design, huh, "not-repairable"). It is a small (12"x12") table with 4 legs bolted in with hanger bolts.JohnWW's comments got me puzzled. I have an assortment of threaded inserts from various places. About half the styles are steel (magnetic) and the other half is not. IIRC, the 5/16" inserts use a 7mm. hex driver. I prefer the hex driver style to the slots (that seem to self-destruct) or pound in (not easily removable, unless you want it to stay in :-). https://shopping.24-7intouch.com/redtopscrews/ProductCart/pc/viewCat_M.asp?idCategory=85 or http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=threaded&x=0&y=0I fell back and used gel epoxy to hold the leg in, as the next step in non-reversible, non-repairable. Next time it breaks, it will be a trip to Target or Wal*mart to replace it.

   Edited 6/27/2007 3:35 pm ET by byhammerandhand

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 27, 2007 10:37pm | #11

   I'm sorry if I misled you, all the inserts I've seen weren't magnetic.

   John W.

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jun 27, 2007 10:38pm | #12

   No problem. The steel ones all seemed to be gold anodized. I never knew that some of them were not steel.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 28, 2007 03:07pm | #14

   You could try to rethread the piece with a tap or thread chaser if the hole is not too far gone.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

7. 
   Ray | Jun 28, 2007 06:16am | #13

   If it's a tee nut and has formica over the top, you're in a bit of a jam.  Removing it would be kinda rough on the tabletop.  If there are any threads left, check the local auto parts store for some loctite to hold a bolt in the nut.    If there isn't too much strain on the bolt, there are also some epoxy compounds for re-threading - - auto parts store again.  As a final choice, carefully drill out as much as you can without destroying the table top and go with a threaded insert, they usually have thicker walls and you might be able to use a 1/4-20 insert in the hole.

8. 
   cmiller231 | Jun 29, 2007 04:00am | #15

   You didn't say how thick the table top is but i 'am guessing 5/8 -3/4.If so you could take your ,router and mll a pocket appox 1-1/4" long x 5/8 wde and 1/4" deep. Then  buy a piece of steel  1-1/4 long x5/8 wide and 1/4" thick.Drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole on center and  two holes clearanced  for wood screw from each end appox 1/4".If old insert is two close to surface for new threaded plate  then use a dremel to grind old insert down.                                 Chris

9. 
   IdahoDon | Jul 04, 2007 05:14am | #16

   There are a handful of automotive threaded incerts that are made to thread into a tapped hole in steel.  Drill and tap what's left in there, put in the new incert and you're done.

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.