Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Mar 26, 2003 05:37am | #1

   Minwax contains a drying oil (linseed oil) to "glue" the color to the wood (the oil portion of the stain is called the "binder").    Once the oil has dried, usually in a day, it can be dissolved with lacquer thinner but is not affected by less potent solvents like mineral spirits or naptha.

   If the stain has dried, use lacquer thinner and scotchbrite to remove the stain.  You may take off too much, but it's a lot easier to apply another coat of stain than try to control the exact amount you remove.  Once the stain is removed, do a small sample by applying another coat of stain.  If the color is too intense, thin the stain with mineral spirits until you get the shade you want.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   sokdoggydog | Mar 27, 2003 02:43am | #2

   Thanks a ton Paul--that helps a bunch!

2. 
   Clay | Mar 27, 2003 12:15pm | #3

   You can adjust the reddish tints toward the browner tones with a greenish tint.  Red and green mix to brown.  Raw umber has a slight greenish tint to it and will make a very subtle shift toward the brown tones from the reddish side.  If you need more green (to counter a stronger red tint) the easiest way is to look for a stain product  that has a lean toward the greenish hues and try it.  If you mix your own, then there are a lot of greens to choose from, viridian makes a nice subtle tinter.  Pthalocyanine green is VERY POWERFUL and can only be used in extremely dilute form.