Replies

1. 
   BossCrunk | May 04, 2009 04:10pm | #1

   Goof Off.

   Don't pay attention to the supposed 'gurus' who slather glue in joints and then proceed to squeeze out about 3/4s of it. A thin film is all you need which should result in the tiniest amount of squeeze out on a panel glue up - just tiny beads all along the joint line. Not enough to pool, run, and drip.

   
   

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   Edited 5/4/2009 9:13 am ET by BossCrunk

2. 
   Dave45 | May 04, 2009 04:35pm | #2

   You avoid the drips by using less glue and spreading it out so you minimize the squeeze out. When I get it right, I have small (~1/16" or less) "gobs" evenly spaced along the joint.

   Then, there's the rest of the time. - lol

   I use pipe clamps and when I need to clean off the dried glue, use one of those painters 5 in 1 tools. They make pretty quick work of it.

   Whatever you do, though, don't use anything that will make the bar or pipe too smooth or leave a "slick" surface. A couple of years ago, during one of my cleaning frenzies, I scraped down two of my pipes then sanded them. They looked real pretty, but were useless as clamps. After about a year outside, they roughed up enough to become clamps again.

3. 
   Quickstep | May 04, 2009 05:05pm | #3

   I feel your pain. Those tiny striations in the bessy clamps provide quite the foothold for glue. I used the painter's tool, a wire brush and a lot of elbow grease to clean mine up. Once clean, I sprayed mine with Sandaro top cote, the stuff used to make table saw tops slick. I can't say 100%, but I think it's working.........

4. FWW Editor
   tommckenna | May 04, 2009 05:32pm | #4

   Wrap blue painters tape around the pipe where the glue joints will be. Then all you have to do is peel off the tape.

5. 
   Jimurock | May 04, 2009 07:40pm | #5

   Household wax paper.  Cheap and longlasting.

   Jim

6. 
   HowardAcheson | May 04, 2009 07:49pm | #6

   PVA (yellow glue) except Titebond III can be removed by heating with a heat gun or wrapping a towel soaked in boil water around it. Heat and moisture softens the adhesive. Titebond III needs to be chipped off.

   As far as keeping glue off there are a couple of choices. One is to take a roll of wax paper and cut it into a couple of 4-5" wide rolls with our bandsaw. Rip off whatever length you need, crease it down the center and drape it over the clamp bar. A better way is to get some shower curtain rod covers from a big box. They are pre-rolled so you can fit them over shower curtain rods. Cut them into 4" lengths and then just fit them over the bar where the glue lines will be. Dried glue will pop right off. Another trick is to use paste wax on the bars. Glue will pop right off. Same tricks work on pipe clamps.

   Howie.........