Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 24, 2003 06:25am | #1

   Chlorine bleach will take the color out. Jeff Jewitt has an article on wood bleaches at this link - Wood Bleaches that explains the different kinds of wood bleach and techniques for using them.

   Paul

2. 
   speedy | Jul 24, 2003 08:19am | #2

   Once applied, analine dye can never be removed completely. Sanding will be futile and no bleach will help. All is not lost however. Those of us who do this for a living have to match color all the time. We do it in stages, correcting the color as we go. In your case, adding a little green dye will will correct your purplish color toward brown. Just don't try to correct it all at once. Sneak up on it a little at a time. The ability to add one color on top of another is unique to dyes. You cannot do this with pigmented stains. If you get the color right but it's too dark just wipe it down with clear water to lighten it a bit. Learning a bit about color theory will be a great help in the future.

1. 
   JayS | Jul 24, 2003 01:39pm | #3

   What do you say about both Paul's copmment and Jeff jewitt's articel on using sodium hypochlorite (pool chlorine) as a bleach for aniline dye removal/lightening?  Sounds like just what I need.  I am concerned about the smell.  Will the piece smell like a swimming pool forever? 

   Jay

1. 
   Kevin | Jul 24, 2003 08:41pm | #4

   Although I have never tried it personally... I have no reason to disbelieve that chlorine bleach won't work as Paul and Jeff say it will. That said though... I think Lee's solution might be both the easiest and the fastest solution to your problem. I agree with him about the color theory thing too. If you can find a color wheel and understand how it works, I'm positive that you'd find it to be a valuable asset. He's right about the green dye. Although, if it were me I think I'd also add a splash of yellow dye since yellow is the on the opposite side of purple on a color wheel. If your purplish color is on the redish side then go with more green than yellow. If it's on the bluish side go with more yellow than green.

   Regards,

   Kevin

   Edited 7/24/2003 3:10:39 PM ET by Kevin

2. 
   speedy | Jul 25, 2003 02:25am | #6

   Chlorine bleach will work to lighten the wood but only to a limited extent. Analine dye is not completely removable with anything. Sanding doesn't work because the dye sinks in quite far and you'll never reach it all. All in all, I think pool chlorine is a bad choice. It's quite toxic. A strong whiff of the stuff can really knock you senseless.

   I'm just guessing, but it sounds like you're trying to get back to bare wood so you can start over. What I'm trying to convey is that you don't need to do that. It's much more work than just adjusting the color. If you want to feel more confident about all this, find a copy of Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing". It's by far the best book out there. He also has a video where he demonstrates the ins and outs of dyes and stains.

1. 
   JayS | Jul 25, 2003 04:12am | #8

   Thanks for all the advice.  I forgot to mention that the client (my 11 year old daughter) decided that she hated even the originally intended brown color and wants what is essentially an amber maple.  If possible, I wopuld like to get back to the bare wood so I can apply an amber maple stain and start from scratch.  I know I'm spoiling her, but that's why I built the thing in the first place!

   Jay

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 25, 2003 05:50pm | #9

   What a nice comment.  The feelings I get from a gift handmade last a long time.  One of the true priveleges of being an amueter.

   Alan

2. 
   JayS | Jul 28, 2003 02:11am | #10

   Thanks.  As much as I love woodworking I'm not sure I would want to work under the pressure of having to make a living from it.  Anyway, any comments about the smell of the bleach (either chlorox or pool chlorine)?  If I use it, there is only so much water I would want to put on the piece to wash it off, because I would think more copious washing could cause warpage.  Thanks

   Jay

2. 
   JayS | Jul 28, 2003 07:50pm | #11

   How long should the chlorine stay in contact with the wood?  Will the reaction be immediate or does it have to stay on for hours?  Does anything need to be done to remove it? I would think a typical organic vaor respirator would give adequate protection from even the pool chlorine, if applied by brush, to a small area at a time. Please comment further if you can.  Thanks.

   Jay

3. 
   speedy | Jul 25, 2003 02:36am | #7

   Sorry..forgot to mention something that might be helpful. You should not mix your colors together before application. You'll be chasing a ghost. Instead mix them directly on the wood itself! By that I mean that you should layer on one coat at a time, making adjustments as you go. Each coat will act as a clue to the color for your next one. Hope this makes sense.

   Lee

3. 
   nonexxx | Jul 24, 2003 10:05pm | #5

   One other comment Jay,

   The dyes can appear to change color once a top coat is applied. I would try to top coat a small hidden area before bleaching.  This may bring the back the color you are expecting.