Hi,
I just inherited a nice Vigor Jewelers Bench. The top is 2″ thick MDF, high density I beleive. It has a thin poly urethane finish.
Part of it has water damage. It has blitered and softened. I have compltley dried it and leveled it, to a degree. The exposed surface is pretty solid but lacks that rolled tempered case hardening MDF has. It’s more porous of course and will soak up any finish quite fast.
I want to use the bench. The goal is to just seal it from the chemicals I use in silversmithing, but it would be nice to level the surface some what as well.
Short answer I guess is: poly urethane! But I’m not sure if I should use a thinner product like the Minwax rub-on PU which I imagine will soak the fibers and be fully absorbed or a thicker self leveling type or both.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Warnie
Replies
Either one, or use a slow set clear epoxy.
Just a thought; I've used a 1/4 " brown hardboard over the top of messed up MDF. counter-sunk screws with treaded inserts at the corners and then ploy finished. Makes a smooth, sealed finish that is easily replaceable.
Why not glue on a layer of 1/4" Masonite, much easier and it will look better.
John W.
The goal is to just seal it from the chemicals I use in silversmithing,
I don't know how easy it would be for you to get ahold of, but... for what it's worth, Sherwin Williams rates their SUPER KEMVAR "M" vinyl conversion varnish as having better chemical resistance than their catalyzed polyurethane Polane Clear. They say it has the best chemical resistance of their entire line of clear wood finishes. However, it's only marketed to commercial customers. I imagine one could sweet talk one of their regular house paint retail stores into ordering some, though.
Thanks everyone,Since I'll eventually replace the top I just dumped and spread a whole syringe of epoxy over the top. Easy and in the Tucson heat cured rock hard in less than an hour. I mixed and spread it so evenly I won't even have to sand.Done!W
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