Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Dec 09, 2009 06:04pm | #1

   Since you're making new doors and drawer fronts, I think that you should use some of the old pieces and some new wood to experiment with a cleaning/refinishing schedule that has everything matching up when you're done.

   IME, getting new parts to match the patina of the old is the most difficult part of this kind of job.

1. 
   zgmc | Dec 09, 2009 06:14pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply Dave. That is part of the plan. The homeowner has already sanded down some of the existing face frames, and they actually came out clean. So, I don't think matching the finishes will be very difficult on this one.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 10, 2009 12:24am | #3

   Remember to thoroughly clean the faceframes before finishing.  Even sanded, they can retain dirt.  Oily dirt, in particular can be driven into the wood by sanding.  I'd use copious amounts of naphtha to clean before finishing. 

   I'd skip the Danish Oil step.  Red oak has a nasty habit of bleeding oil/varnish finishes out of it's pores unless you wipe it off every half hour or so.  I doubt you want to camp in the clients kitchen for that to happen.  I'd bet you can't tell the difference in a sample board with Danish oil plus three wiping varnish coats and a similar board except for not having the Danish Oil.

   I think a wipe on varnish is a good idea.  You might consider a non-poly varnish such as Waterlox, (the Original/Sealer) comes at a good wiping consistency.  The Satin could use a little thinning for good wiping.  If maintaining a light color is called for, thinning one of the alkyd/soya varnishes to wiping consistency would make sense.  Examples are Cabot Varnish (800* series, or Pratt & Lambert 38.  (These are just a little less tough and moisture resistent than the Phenolic/Tung composition than the Waterlox but plenty durable.)