Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 13, 2009 03:04am | #1

   If it ain't broke, why fix it? I would just do what's necessary to sharpen and adjust the blade and put it back to work. It has probably served many woodworkers over it's time, so what if it's not so pretty anymore. Embrace it's hard earned character.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 13, 2009 06:51am | #2

   I'm with Hammer, I'd just use it.  How's the bottom look?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
3. 
   philip | Apr 13, 2009 08:51am | #3

   Let's see a picture of the mouth and sole, then we can see what to do if anything.
   Assuming all is well with the mouth, sole and adjusting works I would just give it a rub over with 0000 steel wool and linseed oil (boiled type) diluted with turps. I would also clean the metal parts with steel wool or fine scotchbrite and then wipe them over with shellac sealer which will maintain the old look and patina of the metal without removing the oxidised layer-which is what is slowing down any rust.
   Others would add the plane to the fire, if you read too much....

   Philip Marcou
4. 
   derekcohen | Apr 13, 2009 06:54pm | #4

   Hi dlb

   If you are asking whether the plane can be a user, then all here are nodding their heads. Just clean it up and make sure the sole is flat and mouth is closed up acceptably.

   If you afre asking whether you should beautify the plane, then that is up to you. There is no wrong in having a nice looking user, while some just use a plane no matter how it looks.

   My favourite transitional plane is one of Brian Buckner's. This is a #36 that he restored using Cocobola throughout ..

   View Image

   Stunning!

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   dlb | Apr 14, 2009 04:16am | #5

   Thanks to all for the replies. I was going to break down the plane, clean, sand and repaiint the hardware, strip the the body & restore it. After reading the responses I think that I will ensure that everything is working correctly, flatten the sole, and put it to use. I hate to 'waste' $15.00 for it and not get any usage from it.

   Thanks again,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   PzB41 | May 14, 2009 06:51pm | #6

   I have a source for "asphaltum" if/when you decide to restore that plane.

   Asphaltum is the "black paint" that Stanley used to coat all their planes.  The stuff takes forever to dry, and you have to follow the instructions to the letter, but the results are worth it.  The plane will be 'as new' when you get it recoated.

   By the way, I would not sand the plane to remove the current coat of asphaltum.  Why?  Because when you remove the asphaltum, you will inadvertantly remove some of the metal as well, which is bad.

   My advice (for what it's worth) is:  If you really, really want to restore the plane (and it is warranted... meaning: it's a rust bucket or it is in such poor condition that it affects you using it), I would find someone with a bead blaster and have them blast it clean using fine glass beads.  This does not remove any metal; rather, it simply puts bazillions of little 'peens' all over the plane (after removing the rust and old asphaltum) and leaves a nice satin finish.  Then coat it with asphaltum while you work on the wood sole (if it needs replacing/refinishing/whatever). 

   If anyone has had luck or knows of a better way to restore a plane, please chime in.  I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination.  However, I have had luck with the method above, and the results are very nice.  I restore my planes and tools so I can have a nice tool to use, not so I can sell them and make a buck or fool anyone by saying "X" is a minty handplane.

   Billy

1. 
   derekcohen | May 15, 2009 08:45am | #7

   Hi Billy

   Bead blasting is a good idea. I have used paint stripper. The point is, however, that if one is restoring a plane and this is to include re-japanning it, then all the old japanning must be removed. Otherwise the old finish will show under the new finish, lumps and all.

   I have a simple formula for japanning. This was given to me by a another and I have used it successfully. It is simply a mixture of asphaltum (the black stuff - available from art supply stores) in spar varnish. Fix up to a thin treacle consistency, and paint it on. It will dry cold over a period of 2 weeks and harden. You can speed up the drying process by leaving the plane/tool in the sun (as I do). There is no need to worry about the effects it might have in an oven. Just be aware that you do better with several thin coats than one thick coat, and that you should work in the horizontal as the stuff will otherwise leave runs.

   For an example of a restoration, here is a link to the Stanley #51/52 I rescued: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Restoring%20a%20Stanley%205152.html

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   JohnWW | May 15, 2009 04:39pm | #8

   I have restored numerous planes and you can exactly duplicate the look of japanning by simply using automotive engine enamel in a spray can. There is nothing special or sacred about japanning. it was just a paint and in fact most planes were originally finished with ordinary enamel paint, asphalt based japanning was just an early version of enamel paint and as easier to handle paints became available manufacturers quickly switched over to them.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007

2. 
   9619 | May 17, 2009 02:50pm | #11

   John,
   Nice post on using automotive engine enamel instead of japanning.
   Enlightening. Why not do a piece in FWW on that? Show some pieces, give a bit of the history. Some comments about the effect on collecting as well as on making "users".
   THanks,
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

3. 
   PzB41 | May 18, 2009 09:50pm | #12

   Howdy John!

   Thanks for the info re: automotive paint.  I was giving that some thought awhile back, but didn't know if it was an accepted practice or not, nor what paint I should use.

   I did some looking online a couple of months back for folks who have done restorations on hand planes, and didn't find anyone using automotive paint, just asphaltum... guess I ran into a bunch of purists.

   I'm open to most anything, and I don't really care where knowledge comes from, just so long as it accomplishes the mission with proper execution, you know?  So, I ended up sourcing a couple of cans of asphaltum, thinking that it was the ONLY way to restore hand planes (yeah, I know... this was before I found Knots and realized the calibre of the people who post on here- sometimes I'm amazed at the workings of that cast iron, rivited, creaky old steam-powered Rube Goldberg machine I refer to as "My Mind")...

   I appreciate ya'll offering your experience and knowledge... I don't know if I'll restore that #7 I was referring to in a previous post with paint or asphaltum, but I'll see if I can post some pics here (if'n anyone is interested, that is) when I'm finished with it..

   Billy

   Hey Derek!  Thanks for offering your info too!  If I go the asphaltum route, I'll definitely have to give that mix a try.  Man, there's so much more I want to say to both you guys, but I'm short on time... both ya'll rock out loud!  Thanks much again... Now, I'm off to square away the livingroom before my lovely wife gets home and kicks my butt so hard, I'll be wearing my a$$ for a hat.  :)

4. 
   PzB41 | May 15, 2009 11:50pm | #9

   Howdy Derek!

   Thanks for the info.  That spar varnish idea is interesting... I woulda nevera thunk it.

   BTW, what's the ratio of asphaltum to spar varnish?  50/50?  Or something close to it?  Or is the answer somewhere in that article that you posted a link to?  I have a Stanley #7 that's seen better days.  Picked it up for a song (less than 40 bucks), and it needs some work (plenty of rust, things living in the nooks and crannies, etc), but it's complete and there are no welds or cracks- even the tote and knob are good to go under the paint spatter.  Should clean up real nice.

   Any other hints/clues you can toss my way?  I'm not a noob, but I sure as h*ll don't know everything.... most days I question whether I know anything at all! 

   Thanks much!

   Billy

5. 
   derekcohen | May 16, 2009 05:11am | #10

   Hi Billy

   I was not given a mix proportion and just added the two until I had a concoction that resembled a runny syrup. It is thnner than one expects and the first couple of coats look a messy brown rather than an opaque black. It builds up. I paint on a coat, then leave it in the sun until you feel the metal is warm, then add another. It may take a day or two to paint. Then leave it alone for two weeks. It will provide an authentic japanned finish - look and texture. Paint cannot provide this.

   I also agree with John's recommendation for car paint. I would only go to the lengths above if I was restoring a tool to the original configuration. This is not necessary for a recondition - where the tool does not warrant this level of attention. I'm not sure when Stanley stopped using japanning, but I think it was until WWII at least. LN, LV and Clifton planes are all painted. If you paint, you can always knock off the shine with 0000 steel wool. The important part here is to remove all previous paint/japanning first.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek