I have constructed four cocktail tables from new cherry wood and after some experimentation have used the lye/vinegar process to color the wood. I selected this process to subdue the blotchy effect inherent in cherry wood and the coloring produced was beautiful and just what I wanted – a nice red to dark red with hints of mild orange.<!—-><!—-> <!—->
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The next step is where I got stupid for a moment. I had planned to use tung oil on the table and my sample piece with straight tung oil looked great. I had read somewhere that the first coat of tung oil should be diluted with mineral spirits to further decrease the blotchiness. I did put the tung oil/mineral spirits solution on the tables without testing and the color of the wood changed to a much darker red dominated by a burgundy color – very different from my successful sample and not at all what I wanted. <!—-><!—->
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I’ve read about stripping and bleaching but am not sure if repeating the lye application after bleaching will still work.<!—-> <!—->
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So the question is – what’s the best way to get the tables back to the original color that I liked?<!—-> <!—->
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Thanks
Replies
jakedog,
It sounds to me that you used too strong a solution of the lye. I've had that happen to me. Another thing you want to do when using lye is to wash it down with plenty of clean water and let it dry prior to finishing.
What was the tung oil you used? Did it say pure tung oil? If not it is just a very thin varnish.
As far as stripping goes; there's almost nothing to strip as you thinned the oil out. If you do strip the surface, you only need to use a little stripper along with a few maroon scotch pads. Apply some stripper, let it sit for a few minutes and then remove it with a piece of scotch pad. When done, scrub the surface with a clean pad and mineral spirits and dry it well. Be sure to protect your eyes and hands when using stripper.
You may find just sanding the surface will do the trick. Re-sand the surface with 150 or 180 as required. You will initially clog your paper due to the oil but that will diminish. Clean the dust and then wet the surface with alcohol. This will tell you where you are color wise.
I try not to bleach wood if I can help it. There are always exceptions though depending on the look required. I would wash the surface well with clean water after bleaching.
I can't tell you difinitively how the lye solution will react to the bleached surface. My gut tells me it will color it but how much I can't say.
Like I said at the beginning, I think your solution was too strong. Make up a stock solution and then pour off some into clean water. This way you can make a 5, 10, or 15 solution % etc. as needed.
I know this is not a one shot answer. There are times you have to work through the problem with a few different approaches and see what works best. It's part of the learning curve.
Out of curiosity why did you choose the tung oil for the finish?
Peter
Hi Peter,<!----><!----><!---->
Thanks for the response. Why tung Oil?<!----><!---->
When much younger I had very little luck/skill with brush applied finishes due to runs, dust contamination, etc. I don't have spray equipment nor wish to enter that arena. I tried tung oil and have always been very pleased with the results. Although not impervious to liquids the tung oil has proved to be a durable surface in my home at least. <!----><!---->
Admittedly, I have not tried any other finishes for several years and I’m probably overdue for some new experimentation. Have you a suggestion?
jakedog,
Back to my first question; what brand tung oil did you use?
When you were much younger you didn't brush a finish well? I'll bet you didn't drive that well either.
It really is not a hard skill to acquire especially with oil based finishes. If you have some dust or nibs in the surface it is relatively easy to rub them out. These are basic techniques you could easily do.
If you prefer to use a pad to wipe on a varnish you could thin a varnish out between 25 - 50 %.
Some good varnishes include Behlens RockHard, Pratt & Lambert, McCloskey just to name a few.
I tell everyone the same thing, READ. There are a number of very good finishing books out there by Jeff Jewitt and Bob Flexnor. If you don't understand the basics of the various finishing products it makes it that much harder
Again, what brand tung oil did you use?
Peter
Dropped the ball on the brand,
I used Dalys Benmatte Tung Oil - I believe its really some type of blend.
OK,
I picked up Jeff Jewitt's book "Finishing" and learned al lot about varnishes. He discusses long an short oil varnishes and I'm guessing that most tung oil on the market (including the one I tried - Dallys Benmatte) are really long oil finishes.
I looked at the Prat & Lambert product specs on their website - and they claim their varnish will yellow with age. This is not discussed in the Jewitt book.
Can you comment on the yellowing effect? Is it a good idea to apply a single coat of varnish over a tung oil finish?
I don't have any knowledge of the brand you are speaking of. I'd be surprised if there was tung oil in it.
Those are simply a very thin varnish with a lot of mineral spirits.
A long oil varnish is one that has a high proportion of oil, either soya, linseed and or tung oil, to the amount of resin. The resin along with the oils are cooked together to form what is called varnish.
The wiping varnish you have is just a very very small amount of this varnish and a whole lot of thinner.
Oil based varnishes will tend to yellow or amber with age. The yellowing is barely noticeable on darker pieces, it just adds to the look. If you were dealing with a very very light surface then it will be noticeable.
You can apply one coat over the oil if you are looking to keep a "close to the grain" look. You can apply more if you want to build a more substantial or what's known as a film finish.
Good luck. Keep reading, practicing and learning
Peter
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