Replies

1. 
   dgreen | Sep 23, 2008 09:38pm | #1

   I use a 16oz. bottle that gets refilled a couple times a day from a gallon jug, so the age of the glue in the bottom obviously is not a concern for me. Regardless of production or hobby use if I had any doubts I would toss the suspect material since glue is far less expensive than a failure.

    

    

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   SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES...THEY ARE NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT...THEY STILL BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN YOU PUSH THEM DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS

1. 
   webby | Sep 24, 2008 01:27am | #4

   Agreed, I don't keeep a bottle over at the 7 or 8 months. I generally use tightbond and know how to find the year made so I know I am not geting an old bottle.Webby 

    

1. 
   ktkamm | Sep 27, 2008 05:37am | #8

   I usually cannot find any info on date manufactured. What is the secret?
   Thanks, Kieran

1. 
   webby | Sep 27, 2008 04:21pm | #9

   There is a code on the back of titebond bottles The first digit of the code is the year made, the first letter of the code is the month made, starting in january.

   Example 6befj = 6 is 2006, b is February.

   Someone else posted this info on here and I am just relaying their example. I don't know what the other digits mean.

   I also am not sure about other manufacturers.Webby 

    

1. 
   ktkamm | Sep 27, 2008 04:23pm | #10

   Webby,

   Thanks for the info.  Kieran

2. 
   roc | Sep 23, 2008 10:50pm | #2

   >Old glue

   Well that is a most interesting question (at least to me).

   The short answer if you don't care to read my drivel is just add more glue no problem.

   The longer version:
   I inherited some old Elmer's glue from my father after he passed away. It was in small bottles; several oz. It was at least ten years old when I tried the following experiment.

   After some disappointments generated by inaccurate or false advertising I was determined to decide for my self what glue was best for what I do, how I use it and how strong it was.

   This is highly unscientific and for those who like empirical, accurate to the Pascal measurement (I know I do) see :

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=28897

   For those who like on the couch, in front of the TV empirical forays stay tuned . . . when I come home from a hard summer day in the "jungle" I like to sit on the couch in front of the fan and drowned my sorrows or celebrate the victories with an all fruit popsicle. Two if it has been a particularly stimulating day (read above 90F weather).

   So I have all these popsicle sticks pilling up every where. I can't throw things like that away.

   How strong is Gorilla glue? If the best of the best in the smithsonian is put together with hide hot glue isn't that strong enough? and What about white glue/yellow glue.

   Well I started this because allot of the "longer open time" white/yellow glues that I had ordered where not longer open time. Period.

   I get all my P sticks and sand and remove the dust in the areas where I am going to glue and clamp. I mark them three ways: lap (in line), cross lap, and cross lap/open and how long I left it open before clamping. ( had like three minutes and ten minutes)

   I have three for each type of glue and joint and time open.

   For several weeks I do this in spare moments using all the different glues including the glue I got from Dad that was ten years old and more.

   In this I included washable School glue from Elmer's which was some of what if got from Dad that is ten years old.

   OK after they set up for at least 48 hours I pull them apart. I have a way I pull them apart. All the sticks are the same length, I grab them in the same way every time. First I twist the sticks against each other gently but enough to get a good flex going. This is my cycling test. If it survives this I move my locked arms and elbows in and out a bunch like clipping a hedge. More cycle testing. If it survives this I then go for wrenching the joint apart to tell if the wood will break near the joint, along the glue line or the joint will come apart pulling out wood fibers and if so I write down what percentage of fibers verses just glue line I see.

   I know, I know the sticks are not all flat and some are punkey yada yada. I know.

   Allot of the "longer open time" glues set up faster than or the same as the regular PVA glues. I even added water to tell where the difference in strength verses longer open time was.

   OK I am getting tired of typing and want to go back to my apple crisp and coffee but you get the idea. Quasi scientific at best and mostly a damned waste of time. Considering all the great glue test articles out there:

   BUT

   The old Elmer's glues that Dad had laying around including the School glue . . . probably froze at least once or twice . . . over all were near the top of the list for strength including fresh Gorilla glue and fresh white/yellow glue !

   It popped loose less, when I broke the joints apart it broke outside the joint and when it did break at the glue line it took allot of wood fibers with it from the other half of the joint.

   Don't get me wrong I still use the heck out of Gorilla glue and epoxy for certain situations.

   The old crappy stuff is probably going to be good enough for most of your work and for the top shelf stuff you are going to use hide glue anyway. Right ? So the future generations can get it apart to repair it.

   Frank Kluasz knows what he is doing when he just uses basic old white glue for his dovetailed drawers ! But then we already knew that didn't we.

   Hey keep this under your hat else the glue manufacturers will be sending 'round their "boys" to looking me up.

1. 
   webby | Sep 24, 2008 01:24am | #3

   Thanks for the info roc.

   Thanks to the UPS man coming today I have also got to try some of the Lee vally gf2002. Nice and thick, I like it. Might Have to switch over from tightbond III.

   I have used hyde glu in the past but generally usa a pva. I am not using gallons or anything, but I go thru it pretty quickly. I like the glue bot alot, I have a couple I just didn't know if I should wash out and start clean or if it is all right to just keep adding glue.

   Thanks again.Webby 

    

1. 
   roc | Sep 24, 2008 05:09am | #5

   Webby,Cool. I like the glue bots and I bought extra tips incase I loose one or want to cut opening to customize etc. You can store the cap ontop the big cap if that makes sense.Let me know how you like the gf2002 after you get some experience with it. Will it work in a cool shop in winter 55F etc. or best used in the seventies?Take care.roc

3. 
   ring | Sep 24, 2008 08:32am | #6

   My shop (production shop for kitchen cabinets) uses Titebond for our everyday glueing. We buy it by the gallon, but we keep about a dozen of the 4 oz. plastic squeeze bottles around and refill them constantly. They're just so convenient to use. Never clean 'em, just refill. They last about 6 months or so and then the tips get all mangled so we throw them out regularly as well. It's simple and it works.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 24, 2008 06:31pm | #7

   It's simple and it works.Says it all!

4. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 27, 2008 04:49pm | #11

   In specific answer to your question:

   It is not necessary to wash out your glue bottle before every refill -- except for functional reasons.

   That is, if the tip is getting clogged, soak it in hot water, and pick out the dried glue residue with an unfolded paper clip, or some other similar instrument. I usually do this every 2-3 refills (at my use rate), simply because the spout works better when clean.

   Theoretically, the shelf life of glue is one year, but in practice it can remain useable much longer than that. You can either 1) learn to read the mysterious codes used by the mfgr, or you can mark each bottle with the date when you buy it with a felt tip.

   However, if the consistency of the glue has changed in any way since your last refill, don't use it. Often, it will start to turn somewhat gelatinous.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   webby | Sep 27, 2008 04:57pm | #12

   Thanks for the info. I have washed out before, but didn't know if it was absolutely necessary.Webby 

    

5. 
   BioHaz1906 | Sep 28, 2008 03:15am | #13

   Someone may have mentioned this already but a buddy of mine showed me the greatest glue bottle.  He takes one of the larger bottles of soda that he drinks the day before, rinses it out and then fills it up with glue.  He then puts the top back on which is pretty wide and then uses a utility knife to cut an X in the top.  I was amazed at how well it worked. 

    

   Bio

1. 
   webby | Sep 28, 2008 04:08am | #14

   Cool good idea I will give it a try.Webby 

    

1. 
   user-83153 | Sep 29, 2008 02:06am | #15

   You know the ketchup and mustard squeeze bottles that they use at restaraunts? I bought one at the grocery store (empty of course) for about a buck and a half, works great! And the little cap is attatched so I don't lose it like evrything else in the shop.

                 Rob