Perhaps I should have been a bit more careful reading the messages about Tried and True finishes, (I used the original version), but we went ahead and did it anyway… <!—-> <!—-><!—->
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In any event, I now have a cherry entertainment center that will not dry. It’s been sitting in a warm environment (70+ F) for about ten days, and have even gone so far as to use a heat lamp to warm it further. <!—-><!—->
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We are coming to the realization that drying time may be months (maybe never) and have to address the problem. When we attempted to strip a sample piece, we found that the oil beaded to the surface, so that’s not an option.<!—-><!—->
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One thought was to put a coat of Waterlux or General Finishes Armor Seal on top, perhaps with a coat of shellac in between. I have done that with succeffully tung oil, but it had dried reasonably well<!—-> <!—->
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Another thought would be to remove as much oil as possible with a solvent (naphtha or paint thinner) then recoat with BLO. The idea would be that the BLO with its driers bind with the Tried and True finish to form a sold base coat <!—-><!—->
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Does anyone have any better suggestions?<!—-> <!—->
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Regards,<!—-><!—->
Replies
Charles,<!----><!----><!---->
That's a good idea. Effectively that was what I was thinking with the BLO, a way to introduce a chemical initiator into the finish as a way to get the linseed oil to polymerize.<!----><!---->
Have you actually done this with success?<!----><!---->
Neil<!----><!---->
I have.
The Japan Drier introduces heavy metal driers which T&T brags they don't have.
While I have done this before, I still suggest that you try it on a relatively small section of the project to make sure YOU are happy with the results. T&T is a great finish but it dries completely by oxidation without the heavy metal driers that speed oxidation.
Next time, if you want an oil finish that is a proxy for BLO with the added kick of a slight amount of varnish resin then simply use Watco Danish Oil. You can control the amount of surface build and the product will dry reliably. Wrapped up with a high-Carnauba wax and you have a striking finish with as much or little gloss as you want. You're in complete control. I build furniture for my living and use Watco frequently. Don't let the wannabees tell you Watco is a cop-out. It's not. Any oil finish is very labor intensive but the beautiful thing about Watco is you can schedule the work and know you're not going to be faced with a disaster and a missed delivery deadline.
Edited 10/19/2005 6:44 pm ET by charlesstanford
Charles,<!----><!----><!---->
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I actually have used Watco and it does reasonably good job. You are absolutely right as any of these oil finishes are a lot more work than three coats of polyurethane and you’re are done.
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I did test the T&T on a few samples and it seemed to dry in a reasonable period of time, 2-3 days. That’s why it so surprising. I can rub my hand across the piece and it’s covered in oil.<!----><!---->
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The <!----><!----><!---->Japan<!----><!----> drier is a bit scary as I have never used it before. The heavy metals (Manganese and Cobalt?) are not the greatest materials, but they are not the worst either. Keeping mind that when the finish is dry, it would be hard to ingest them.<!----><!---->
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Perhaps the most disappointing part is this is that the appearance and feel of T&T is great – it’s a really nice finish if it would only dry. I suppose that I could put a couple of coats of Watco over it and achieve perhaps a better result (probably a lot more resistant to water spots). I know what Watco looks and feels like,e and my guess that that it’s compatible.<!----><!---->
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Since you have a bit more experience with this, perhaps you can answer a few more questions:<!----><!---->
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Just how long should the T&T take to dry and will it ever be oil free? That is, will I wake up tomorow and it will be bone dry?<!----><!---->
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If I add the Japan Drier, would it modify the look and feel, and what would the approximate drying time be?<!----><!---->
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Thanks,<!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
I've had a T&T finished piece in my shop for a solid month before I felt comfortable delivering it.
If you decide to wait it out then the piece cannot be buffed too much. Use paper towels to get maximum absorption.
Edited 10/20/2005 4:50 am ET by charlesstanford
I have used Japan drier on many occasions hasten drying of linseed oil and could not tell the difference with or without after it dried. There is probably not enough dangerous material in a teaspoon spread over the entire piece to be a poison threat. This sounds like a good idea but get as much of the wet stuff off before you #### new. Good Luck
I used tried & trues oil varnish and had a simmilar problem it did dry eventually it helped that I buffed the bejabers out of it with a soft cloth.
Good luck
Troy
I used Tried and True Varnish Oil on some panelled closet doors I made out of cherry. While it was easily applied, it took FOREVER to dry. I found that buffing it with a clean soft cloth several times a day (ridiculous, I know) was important. If you're running your hand over the wood and coming up oily, you need to buff it much more. It took about a week for the oil to really dry enough for another coat and then I began the process of buffing again. It came out great but I don't think I'd use Tried and True again.
Neil,
Messages about problems with T&T just go on and on and on. I'm one of those who never could get it to polymerize. Some report success, so I think it's a product with terrible quality control. It's a waste of anyone's time and I cannot uderstand the fascination with it. Its so-called "benefits" are just hype. But it seems it has attracted a kind of small cult following. Any BLO product that actually polymerizes is superior for that reason alone.
You don't have to add metallic driers to it to "repair" your job. Just wipe it thoroughly with mineral spirits or naphtha and apply any other commercial oil/varnish preparation. Watco is good, as are any of the others. The driers in the new finish layer will catalyze the residual T&T and you'll be done with it.
Rich
May I suggest that you go to their website, triedandtruewoodfinishes.com, and ask for their advice. They even have something there called a telephone number.
Just as a closure to the group, I did add a bit of <!----><!----><!---->Japan<!----><!----> dryer to the finish and it did indeed polymerize. Of course, that completely defeats that whole purpose…. <!----><!----><!---->
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One comment is that it is a very attractive finish. It has sort of a silky appearance. <!----><!---->
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Any comment on getting that type of look in a more durable finish that dries in a reasonable period of time?<!----><!---->
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Neil<!----><!---->
FWW ran a test of wipe-on finishes a couple months ago. IIRC T&T rated at the bottom of the list of 2 dozen or so products.
Thanks for sharing a photo of you project, NICE. But can you please tell me what are these things stored in the bottom/right cabinet :-)
You kiddin? I've got Charlie Parker on 78s...
;^)Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Grateful Dead, Pink Floyd, and lots of other records that I listened to when I had hair…<!----><!----><!---->
Beautiful design, Neil. I'm so glad you were able to "recover" the finish! Very cool to see a turntable and vinyl too! I still have my Dual turntable from the 1980's and a bunch of LPs that I played only once, to put on tape, and then stuck them back in their jackets.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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