Replies

1. 
   jimmys | Feb 10, 2003 12:22am | #1

   try one more step finsh sanding by hand thats what I do

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 10, 2003 01:30am | #2

   Hi Steve, I'm at work but have a little dead time on my hands. 

   Can't say that I've had the same problem you're experiencing.  I just finished a small oak project that I planed, and then ROS sanded from 150 to 220 grit.  No squigglies.

   You might try a different brand of sandpaper.  It could be that you got aholt  of a bad batch that has a few pieces of grit that aren't properly sized.  I buy mostly from the Klingspor catalog (sorry, Google isn't working right now, so don't have the URL).  Quality sandpaper is a must, IMO.

   What specific type of paper are you using?  Have you had this problem on other woods? Are you cleaning the paper regularly as you sand (with one of those crepe sticks)? 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Feb 10, 2003 09:01am | #3

     Sorry it took me so long to respond.  I've had some Ebay stuff ending tonight and a family dinner so its been hectic. 

      The paper I've been using is the Makita brand stuff.  It looks like quality and the price is rather high.  On the back of the paper it has Sankyo Type HN.  I've only noticed the problem on red oak.  Walnut, maple, pine ect. don't really do it.  I don't use a crepe stick.  In fact I'd never heard of one till you mentioned it.  You were wondering about a bad batch of paper,  I've bought it several different places (same brand), so I doubt it.

      You said you by from the Klingspor catalog.  Anything in particular you would recommend?  Thanks for your time and advice,

                              Steve

1. 
   Byron | Feb 10, 2003 07:04pm | #4

   Steve,

   I have to agree with Forestgirl.  It is the paper you are using.  I bought a Makita ROS and it came with the makita sand paper.  I used it on Maple and on Red Oak.  It left the marks on both wood types.  So I purchased some Mirka Brand paper and used it on the red oak table I recently finished and did not notice the marks as before.  Good luck.

   Bmit 

1. 
   riverr1 | Feb 10, 2003 07:19pm | #5

   Steve,

   You might also try getting some paper that doesn't have the holes in it for your finish sand. Makes more dust, but no scratches. Some of those that have put out the big bucks for some of those import sanders also swear that those sanders don't leave the marks. Can't verify that for you though!;-)

   Don

2. 
   Elcoholic | Feb 10, 2003 07:22pm | #6

   Is the Mak paper resin bonded or open coat?  I've had the same problem with Bosch and Trendlines resin bonded discs.  Decided the added disc life wasn't worth the hassle, plus they tend to break when an edge catches.  The Trendline disks tended to separate from the backing as well.  I have no problems with any of the open coat disks I've tried - Klingspore, Mirka, and Norton.  How's your technique?  Never start or stop on the work piece.  Sweep on from right to left and sweep off from left to right.  Make sure the brake is working properly.  The disk shouldn't be spinning all that much when it's off the work.  I tried Mak's thick foam pad for contour sanding but I found the weight of the pad was too much for the brake which left swirl marks at any grit.  Had to follow up with hand sanding to get them out.  Not really a big deal becuase hand sanding with the grain will improve any finish.  Good luck.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 11, 2003 09:11am | #10

   Hi Steve, I'm running late also.  Here's the link for the Klingspor WWing-oriented web site:

   http://www.woodworkingshop.com/

   The last time I ordered, which was a while ago, I got the heavyweight hook and loop paper, non-coated.  They have lots of different products to offer, and the quality is excellent.  If you click on the "Catalog" button at the top of the page, it takes you to an order page to get their paper catalog.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   birchtrim | Feb 10, 2003 09:07pm | #7

   I had a similar problem with pine using 220, but it didn't show up with birch.  Used the 4x4 pad sander to take out the swirls.  I was using a PC sander and PC 5-hole paper.  My new paper is Mirka, from homesteadfinishing.com; Jeff's a great guy to go to with questions.  Using the no-hole paper for finish sounds like good advice.

4. 
   noone51 | Feb 11, 2003 08:44am | #8

   One of the things I've found that helps is to not try to force the sander to work but instead let the sander do the work for you. Less down force seems to help alleviate the problem but I always follow up with hand sanding and 220 is about all I ever need to go to. I've tried several different types of paper but a final block sanding seems to always give me the best results.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Feb 11, 2003 09:05am | #9

       Thanks to all for the advice.  Maybe I should change my technique and try some different paper. 

                    Steve

5. 
   GregW | Feb 12, 2003 09:17pm | #11

   I agree that its probably bad paper, but it may also be your technique. Moving the sander too quickly can leave swirl marks. I have heard that your suppose moving the sander VERY slowly, like an inch a second.  Never have the patence to do it for very long but it does seem to improve the results I get. Good luck with the new paper.

   Greg