Rail/Stile Bit Sizing for 5.25 MM Ply?
KesslerCraftsman
| Posted in General Discussion on
Hi,
I’m about to start making some simple cabinet doors using Birch for the frames and 1/4″ Birch ply for the panels.
The problem is the rail and stile sets that I’m looking at “Classical” sets at MLCS cut either a 1/4″ wide groove or a 3/16th groove.
Any experience or advice about getting a tight fit on these panels?
Should I go with the 1/4″ and use space balls or similar?
Any advise would be most appreciated.
Larry
Replies
Larry, I was taught to leave a space to allow the panel room to expand with temperature and humidity, so leave a space, 1/4" works well. Space ball work but here’s a suggestion; near the end of a silicon or chalk tube squeeze out rows about 1/8" diameter on to wax paper then allow to cure -- fold the wax paper with row for future use -- cut in 1" to 3" strips.
Buy the space balls, they work great. At 2 cents each, is it worth your time to make them? The are sized just right, .26" Can you get the silicon that accurate? Most of us have limited time in the shop. I would rather make furniture than my own space balls.
Space balls, plastic tubing and homemade spacers only keep the panel from moving side to side. To get any thickness groove you want, you need a set that can be taken apart. You can use just the bead and cope part of the cutters as usual and cut your slot with a separate slotting bit. It works somewhat like a glass door set. There is one extra step with cutting the back of the rail to leave the correct size tongue on the cope.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Larry,
MLCS, like most manufacturers, makes a conversion kit for using 5.2 mm plywood with their rail and stile bit sets. There are two different kits depending on which of their bit sets you are using. Look for part #289 or part #296. The conversion kits are mentioned in their catalog but it is easy to miss the reference.
Some bit makers will sell you a set made specifically for 5.2mm ply, saving you the cost of buying the conversion kit which cost &25.00 or $40.00 depending on the model number.
Because plywood doesn't expand or contract with moisture changes, you won't have to use Space Balls or some other type of flexible filler in the grooves of your frame.
John W.
Hi Larry ,
As Hammer has said , space balls only center the panel up and down and side to side , they do nothing to address the thickness of slot and panel .Buying a cutter set that cuts a 5.2mm slot would be great,but what I have noticed is not all the plywoods are coming in at 5.2 , some will still come in at a true 1/4" or close to it. When I run square edge doors without the cope and stick detail,just square , I cut the slot to fit just right and make the tongue accordingly. When I have had to use 5.2 and my 1/4" slot stile and rail cutters , I actually shoot some 5/8" pins behind the panel to push it to the front of the frame . I know some of the purists will cringe at that thought but it has been an acceptable practice for many years and honestly I have never had a customer even comment on it one way or the other. Take a close look at doors that are factory made more times then not they will be pinned from the back . This for me also serves as a way to keep a raised panel centered.
I hope this helps you good luck dusty
When I have a panel too loose because it's not thick enough (generally this comes up with beveled glass "panels") I cut a shim of the right thickness and insert it behind the inside of the panel after the door is assembled, glue it lightly on the frame side and trim before finishing. It is the next thing to invisible.
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