Replies

1. 
   Peter36 | Jan 01, 2005 09:42pm | #1

   I don't know of any sites, but be sure to set it up extremely accurately. I personally would not rip on it if you are thinking of doing so.

1. 
   Frandelhi | Jan 02, 2005 04:59pm | #4

   Thank you.  I willbe more extra careful.

2. 
   desertmaster | Jan 02, 2005 08:24am | #2

   Francis,

      One thing to remember when using a radial arm saw is that they want to self-feed, especially when cross-cutting thick stock.  In other words, when the saw is advanced a few inches into the stock, instead of continuing forward with the same speed, it suddenly wants to leap forward into the cut, sometimes stalling in the wood. You have to develop the technique of pulling the saw forward and holding it back at the same time.  To get accustomed to this, you might consider practising on thin stock, then graduadually moving to slightly thicker and thicker stock.  Installing a saw blade with a negative hook angle helped alleviate my saw's tendancy to do this, though it didn't do away with it altogother.         Gary

    

1. 
   Frandelhi | Jan 02, 2005 04:58pm | #3

   Thank you, I really appreciate.  I will practice one for a thin one.  Bit scary but I know, just like the other power tools that I have, I'll get used to it.   I'm very careful whenever I deal with with my tools but this one I have to be more extra careful.  Is there a video that I can buy so I can get idea on how they work.  I'm from Philadelphia and I can't seem find any place that teaches carpentry (may not be looking too hard though).

     

3. 
   mike4244 | Jan 02, 2005 06:22pm | #5

   Set saw up out of level from front to back ,extension tables same way. Usually need about 1/4", this keeps saw carriage from sliding towards you inadvertantly.

   Cut 3/8"x3/4"x2" spacer blocks . Glue or tack them between the table and the fence on approximately 6" centers. This gives you 3/8" space to allow sawdust to flow under fence. Otherwise dust builds up and you won't get accurate cuts if dust is not blown out often.As other posts mentioned ,make sure you have a blade that is correct for a radial arm saw. Try and rip with a handheld circular saw or tablesaw rather than radial arm.When cutting miters or other angled cuts it is best to leave the saw at 90°. Make up a board with accurate 45° cut, clamp to table and place work on the angled board, then cut the work. Similar board with adjustable fence for odd angle cuts.Toggle clamps come in handy to hold the work on boards.I mention this because moving the saw carriage for angled cuts is not very accurate, pain to get saw back to a perfect 90°

   mike

    

4. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 10, 2005 05:38am | #6

   If I was you i take it back and find another tool or way to replace the radial arm saw. Do they still make and sell this tools?

   YCF Dino

5. 
   firemann | Jan 13, 2005 07:39pm | #7

   When I first met my wife, of course she was'nt my wife at that time, she had just bought a radial arm saw. She and her sister were giong to make frames for all of their needle work. Well they never did anyhting with it. Now she tells everyone that I only married her for her radial arm saw. I only use the saw to cut long boards into more managable leangths.

6. 
   woodensplinter | Jan 14, 2005 02:09am | #8

   Try this  http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/reviews/ras_review.html.

   Shows the accurate set up of a Delta 10 saw.  Most are similar.

   I must be getting old or something.  My first stationary power tool was a radial arm saw.  Used it for years without any problems what so ever.  Still prefer it.  I was extremely nervous using my table saw, when I first bought one, because things were just not familiar to me.

   Happy cutting.

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 15, 2005 04:42am | #9

   One thing you might want to do is mark the fence and table where the blade comes through with a contrasting color. After using a radial arm for awhile, it's easy to put the hand that isn't on the handle a bit close to the blade's path. Other than that, keep the blade(s) sharp, keep it lubed so it doesn't hang up and keep it adjusted well. It's still a good tool, just different in how to use it safely.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

7. 
   BGodfrey | Jan 21, 2005 03:41am | #10

   I bought my radial arm saw in 1978. I have used it off and on since then, sometimes neglecting it for a year or two, sometimes using it intensely for years.

   If setup carefully, a radial arm saw can be very accurate, regardless what the wags may say. One advantage I have found to having the saw hanging above the workpiece is that you can position a tooth right on the cutting line and adjust it exactly where you need it.

   I have ripped many thousands of feet of lumber with my saw. I found the accuracy to be very acceptible for what I was doing. And that's the key: what are you going to use it for? A radial arm saw is a good general purpose saw and will make just about any cut you need to make on lumber (not plywood.) But it may not be sufficiently accurate for very fine woodworking. Likewise, a carpenter's table saw is probably not accurate enough, either.

   But for cutting turning blanks (spindle), ripping strips to make masts or canoes, making garden furniture, birdhouses/feeders, stock for architectural mouldings, odd sized framing lumber, drawers, etc., it rips just fine. I have always adjusted the hold-down and anti-kickback guards before a rip. (Always - really.) And have only needed it once. With the proper blade and reasonable attention to what you're doing they just aren't as bad as people claim. And if they do kickback, you aren't standing right behind them like with a table saw.

   A radial saw really excels for cutting material to length. One handy thing is that you can make your first measurement by lining up a tooth against your stock. Then, before you make the cut, take a piece of 1x2, slide it up to and touching the measured stock, and just use a spring clamp to attach it to the fence for a cutting stop. This allows you to cut multiple pieces of exactly the same size. Sometimes it is more important for all pieces to be the same, than for them to be a specific, precise length. If you cut a small notch in the bottom of your piece of 1x2, dust buildup in front of your stop will not be a problem.

   I bought one of those radial saw stands with the infeed/outfeed rollers for my saw. (I think HTI is the manufacturer?) I was a hassle attaching the saw to the stand, but once you've got it setup, it makes the saw very handy for production work on longer boards, and you'll never need a helper.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/20/2005 7:46 pm ET by FatBear

1. 
   DrynDusty | Jan 21, 2005 10:42pm | #11

   I've had a radial saw for over 25 years and have not had a problem using for both crosscutting and ripping. I've also used it with a tool for making  surface flat, which it did very well, a 24 inch cross section of a cherry trunk, to be used for a coffee table. I never see RA saw owners bringing in a collection of their fingers into the Emergency Rooms I've worked in, as is true of table saw owners.

    

   Norm