Have been thinking of buying a RAS for dadoes on bookshelves (lots). Even with a sliding table or a sled I never get 90 degrees all of the time so I just hate the thought of cutting multiple dadoes on stock of any length.
Some questions:
1.) All I’m going to be doing is cutting 90 degree dadoes or tenons, does it have to be anything special? Can I get away with a used Craftsman?
2.) I am used to SCMS. Anyone out there done anything dangerous just cause they are used to using SCMS all of the time?
3.) Other safety issues? Depth of dado cut on one pass in plywood? Keeping it square if all I’m doing is cutting 90 degrees? Anything else?
Thanks in advance gang,
Bill
Replies
with careful setup you should be fine. But make some test cuts to be sure you are cutting at 90 degrees. You will need a dado cutter designed for a RAS to ensure a clean cut.
Sorry for my stupidity, but why can't I use my table saw dado on it?
Thanks,
Bill
Its all to do with the angle of "attack" of the teeth on the blades. If you look at a blade intended for table saw use the teeth are designed to pull the material down on the table when being cut. This type of blade in a RAS will try and self feed when you try to cut with it. Often they just dig in and mess up the alinement. Sears is a good place to look at the blade tooth design. (up to you if you buy while there)
Thanks everyone. After reading the reference to previous posts and the info you kindly provided, I think I'm going to forget the RAS.
Thanks again, Bill
Hi Bill,
I think that I may have answered similar questions in a previous thread, linked here.
The RAS is pulled towards you, not pushed (which is a dangerous, limb removing proposition on a RAS). Don't cross your arms and aim to keep your body out of the path of the saw in the way that you stand.
Teeth on a RAS have an included angle 90 degrees or greater, on a SCMS they're less than 90 degrees.
Cheers,
eddie
A RAS is like any other tool in the sense that if you buy a cheap one you'll probably regret it, even if it's adequate for one simple task.
A key difference between a good RAS and a cheap RAS is that the good one will keep its alignment for a long time, whereas a cheap one will go out of alignment and you'll have to adjust it constantly.
Also the motors on some cheap RAS are loud shrieking universal motors whereas the motors on good RAS are quiet induction motors.
Of course power is another difference, although even the smallest RAS are powerful enough for what you're looking for.
A RAS is plenty safe when used for crosscutting. Just keep the blade guard on and keep your fingers out of the way. When cutting thick stock, hold the handle very firmly and advance slowly to keep the thing from running toward you. In the same way, when cutting dadoes don't try to do too much in one pass.
One tip in advance. When setting the RAS to 90 degrees, don't try to use a square. Instead, use two rectangular pieces of plywood, cutting them both and then flipping one over end-to-end. If you're at 90 degrees they'll still be flush, if you see what I mean.
I have owned a RAS for a long time but I think I'm in the minority.
The dumb Sears saw may or may not be right for you. Some of the cheaper Sears RAS's have an arbor that is not long enough to accomodate a full stack three quarter dado blade. Check it before you buy.
Using a RAS for daddos in this instance is a perfect application for this type of saw, and safer than a table saw in this instance.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Bill,
How long are the dado cuts that you want to make? A RAS has a limit on the length of cut. Try cutting a 20" dado with a Sears RAS.
Joe Phillips
Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!
Length of cut is the big limitation I found with RAS. Cabinet sides are often 24" and most won't have that capacity.
I use my SCMS for precision angle cuts. My RAS is positioned between my lumber racks and is used primarily as a cutoff saw. I have the Maggi Junior which has a 28" crosscut. It also has the the ability to handle a dado set. The Maggi is in league with the Omga, both of these saws are more or less budget saws. The Original Saw company has the king of RASs. If you are going to do 20" dados, you want a saw whose table is easily leveled so that your dado is a uniform depth across the 20". Nothing beats a RAS for repeated. long dados. Because I knew I would be cutting rough lumber to length, I didn't want to spend big dollars for a really good saw which would be getting such abuse. The Omga has a pneumatic feed so that the blade can't race into the cut. I bought my Maggi from Jesse at Eagle Tools in Calif.
Bill Lindau
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