Hi there. I’m trying to make some decisions about a standard height for work surfaces in my shop. I recently viewed some plans for a basic workbench in a Fine Woodworking Special edition magazine wherein they build the bench to be 35 1/8 inches high in an effort to slightly undercut the height of their tablesaw which was presumably 35 1/4 inches high. My current tablesaw is nearly 38 inches tall as it sits on top of a Shopfox mobile base. This tablesaw is not the one that I intend to keep though. My radial arm saw currently sits about 37 inches above the floor however it is considerably taller than it needs to be based on how high the leveling feet are adjusted.
What I’d like to know is what is a good height for general worksurfaces and what is the height of a standard tablesaw? 35 inches seems sort of low to me. I am six feet tall. Is it common for a tablesaw to be only 35 inches high?
How tall is your tablesaw?…. what kind of saw is it?…. and what, if any, kind of mobile base is it on? Does this differ from the standard height of the other worksurfaces in your shop?
Your thoughts and experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Gerald
Replies
Specifications for various makes and models of table saws on manufacturer's web sites will likely give the height above the floor. I think my PM 64A about 35" above floor.
Gerald, I can't answer your saw height question since mine is in storage along with all my other stuff -- pending construction of the new shop. However, I can give you a few of my opinions.
First, I wouldn't let my saw height or any standard drive the height of my workbench. If you're going to do any serious work, the height of the bench is too important to subjegate the decision to meeting some other purpose. If the juxtaposition of the saw and the workbench makes it necessary to match them up, I'd figure out a way to make the saw fit in rather than t'other way around.
Second, where bench height is concerned, I recommend a temporary set of legs that allow trial and error. Work on it for a while and then change it an inch or so until you know what works best for you. It's really pretty easy to start short and work up by adding blocks until you get to the right spot -- then build a nice set of permanent legs with all the bells and whistles. Standard or average height is just a less than perfect compromise, unless of course you happen to be average -- and most of us aren't.
Verne
If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!
I don't think that a standard height exist. Different manufacturers vary in height. My TS is around 34 1/2" and on a base around 35 1/2" which is perfect "for me". I build my work-bences to around 35"-36". But you are a 6' + person and that might feel short depending on your posture at a machine or bench.
So.. if a machine feels too low to you.. raise it. If it feels too tall.. lower it as only you can determine standard height for your own needs.
Sarge..
Hi Sarge,
I think you meant that for NWGerald, but yes, I agree. Verne
If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!<!----><!----><!---->
Another one you can chalk up to in a hurry to get to the shop and not paying enough attention. One more mis-que and my wife makes me accept the ARRP card they keep sending that I insist to her... I'm too young.. they must have mis-labeled the envelope. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Have a good day...
Sarge..
Sarge, check out the link below. I hope the pay helps buy some horse vittles or goes toward a down payment for a Euro slider.
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=45447.1
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
Edited 2/17/2009 7:52 am ET by JerryPacMan
I must be dumber than I originally thought. I see where the site is being worked in message 10 but I do not see any connection to FG and the added staff symbol by her name when she posted. I assume she is helping with the upgrade since you mentioned a down payment on the Euro slider? I did not see any formal announcements but.. I just pass through daily and miss much I suppose.
Dah... too much thinking for this dumb country boy in one day. Back to the shop where rough is ready and must be cut down and planed for stretchers on the computer desk-hutch. Now that is simple and I understand it so I suppose I should stick to things I understand. :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 2/16/2009 4:27 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge, he sent you to the wrong thread. Try this one. I'm hangin' on the coat-tails of some of our serious WWers, consider me a liaison (of the facilitating kind, not the covert-romatic kind, LOL!)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks.. I've been busy down in the bunker with the computer desk and have been just spot reading. Interesting read and with all due respect to "upper management personnel".. Congratulations!
Now.. let's get straight to the point....
Yes.. guilty as charged your honor.. I am a man of stealth but blame the government as they trained me. :>)
A staff Hammer....
Not trusting "upper management".. I highly suspect that is not a hammer at all but... a Gavel as in "here comes the judge"!
In my case probably the "hanging judge". So with no further ado.. I'm not waiting to find out and will seek immediate refuge in the secret bunker to work on another twisted plot using stealth to hide the true intent as just another WW project.
Here comes the "judge".. there goes the accused.... life is simple. :>)
Regards from an unknown location...
Sarge..
Edited 2/16/2009 6:44 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
It's a tack hammer, ROFL!! (that was pun)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Well... with all the precincts in and you getting the majority of the vote... I do believe you are very qualified and capable of... "speak softly but carry a big tack hammer just in case". ha.. ha...
So again.. Congratulations Judge Jamie...
Sarge..
Edited 2/17/2009 9:44 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sorry Sarge as I am the dumb one, as FG pointed out I sent you to the wrong discussion.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
We could get a support group organized as I know plenty of others that would quailify other than you and I. But... in the meantime I think we shouldn't sweat the small change and save the worry for how to get the larger bills headed in the right direction. But you got an A + for effort so it doesn't hurt your grade point average in the long run. :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
Verne and Sarge are steering you right. The height of any tool needs to fit you, not some designer-driven number. I'm 5'7", but due to back problems, I need my work surfaces taller than many people my height or taller. I might make a workbench that will complement the height of my saw, use it as an outfeed table, but it may end up not being the best place for me to stand and make sketches or figure out a cut-list.
The height of a radial arm saw or a miter saw table, for me, would be influenced on how much I might use the tool and how repetitive shoulder movements affect me. It all comes back to ergonomics, and how much latitude you have physically for various movements.
Another issue comes to mind, that of using hand planes at a work bench. I'll bet those who are heavy plane users have had to make definite decisions about the height of their workbenches.
OK FG.. what's the little "staff" thingy to the right of your handle? Another one lost to the "dark side" I suspect.... :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
I have had my new bench since November. I set the height as that of the heel of my palm plus 1" as I have a back problem. That extra inch really helps.
However the bench is a tad too high for hand planing. Not really a problem for edges but when it comes to surfaces I could do with lowering it an inch.
On the other hand when chiselling the wretched thing is too low! I have to bend down to peer at the work and will probably build a "benchtop bench" to be able to raise the work.
Essentially I echoing previous replies that the bench should suit you and the work you do. You need to accomodate hand planing, back problems and eyesight (there are probably other conflicting factors I haven't found yet).
Thanks for your response and to the other respondents. I'll take your general advice and aim for what is comfortable.
CheersFocus on results.
Gerald,
What I'd like to know is what is a good height for general worksurfaces and what is the height of a standard tablesaw? 35 inches seems sort of low to me. I am six feet tall. Is it common for a tablesaw to be only 35 inches high?
Hmmmmmm, sometimes I tend to get old (read picky) but what do you mean by general worksurfaces ? Sounds like you want to double duty your general worksurface(s) to align with your tablesaw mebbe?. If that's the case then that's what I try to do also as I have a very small woodshop and try to use every square inch to my advantage.
I think these kinds of decisions shouldn't be translated into, let's say a workbench where I'll be using my planes and chisels. I want/have this height set to the distance between the floor and the palm of my hand with my arm extended straight down, my palm held parallel to the floor + 1 inch. That's the best height for me when using handtools, i.e. planes. Your mileage may vary but I do NOT vary the height of my workbench. Yes I may put something on it to raise it's height temporarily should I need to extend the outfeed/downdraft table for instance.
A general worksurface to me means outfeed tables, maybe a mobile assembly table, etc.; basically any other surface except my workbench as noted above. Yeah I know you're anal about keeping general worksurfaces spotless, like all woodworkers, eh? Yeah right! Gawl dang it there's no clutter in my woodshop!
With regard to outfeed table height I have added another wrinkle (ooops). I didn't want to have to cut troughs/dados into the outfeed table which in my case is also going to be a downdraft table for sanding. My outfeed/downdraft table floats on a frame just a skosh below the bottom of the mitre slots in the tablesaw. That way all my sleds can slide right onto the outfeed/downdraft table, and not catch on the edges.
To rasie the outfeed/downdraft table I have two 3/8" x 18" shims that are tethered to the outfeed table frame. Yup, I never lose them!. Another avoided little trip down woodworkers memory lane..........
I guess what I'm trying to impart to you is that I believe all worksurfaces require some thought before establishing heights. They're VERY IMPORTANT especially when faced with limited space.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 2/17/2009 8:56 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
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